Lee "Perfect" Powder Measure help (directions suck)

First thing to keep in mind, the numbers on it are just for estimating or for your future reference.

The line next to the 1 is 1cc, you just need to screw the black part in to select lower charge weights. Then weigh them to get the load right. If it's too low, screw it out, too high screw it in.

I don't know of any volume charging equipment of this kind that you can load simply by using the stated volume and not weighing charges. For no other reason that the volume of powder can change slightly lot to lot.

Since it is new, it will be static charged. Rub it with a dryer sheet to get some of the static out. Also, throw at least ten charges and dump them back in the hopper before starting to weigh each time you set it up. This will help with static and the first few are not that accurate.

Once you get the charge where you want it, make sure the silver ring around the adjusting knob to keep it tight. Weigh 5 or so charges in a row to make sure the weights are stable. After that, weigh every tenth charge or so until you are comfortable that weights are consistent.

It is useful (when loading single stage) to keep all of the cases in a reloading tray and visually compare charges. If one looks different from the rest, dump it in the hopper and throw another charge in it (make sure all powder is out first.)

Col. Plink said:

Wow, thanks! That's so much better than what was included with it. I think I can repeat those steps, but where on the meter am I trying to "set" these measures to? There doesn't seem to be a mark to start or gauge from. Thanks!

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My RCBS powder measure said to throw a pound of powder through to remove static and have a sort of "coat" of powder dust on it which stops powder sticking to it. I usually record the grain weight for a certain powder at three levels (ie 2cc, 3cc and 4cc) then use this as a "guide" to throwing powder charges. Saves a lot of time remembering trying to remember the cc of a powder charge. You still have to weigh them, this just speeds up the set up.

If you have the original paper that comes with the Lee, it should have a formula for each common powder, VMD, I believe. Like maxx said, the increments are in cc. That will get you close to the grain weight. From there, you'll fine tune with a scale.

If you look at the silver collar, there are numbers on them. Use the line on the number scale of the part you turn as the reference.

tighten the silver ring until you can still turn the black measure. Turn it until the "1" line is right at the silver edge, and the line below the "1" points to "0". This is where you should start, and it is Approximately 1cc. Turning it in 1 full turn until the line points to "0" again is about .9cc. Likewise, if you turn it only 1/2 turn in from "1" until the line points to "5" then that would be about .95cc.

Mine won't go in past about .2cc, which is why I can't start from 0 and go up.

Obviously, since the silver ring can be tightened to various positions, you can't set it perfectly just using the volume measure. You will get close, then the weighing will get it perfect. Once it is set, it is pretty accurate during the whole reloading session.

Ignore directions. Just make sure the silver collar isn't loose. Turn the knob clockwise to open it up, counterclockwise to close. I find that each single notch is close to a 1/10th of a grain, 1 full turn is near a grain. Just dump some, weight, then dial to the appropriate direction. I've gotten to where I can get the weight I want in 3-5 tries. Once it's set, I weight after the first 5, then 25, and every 25 after that. I've found that I very seldom have to adjust once I've got it working.

The weight of each charge and the amount it changes when adjusted varies with each different powder ! I think I remember putting some powdered molybdenum disulfide through it before starting, to lubricate it ! I get better results by starting with too large a charge and reducing it rather than increasing up to it ! Also I like to tap the measure between charges to settle it ! Kevin

On the bright side, despite the sucky instructions, the PPM drops very consistently for me with the powders and volumes I use. YMMV

P.S. You DO need to run a canister of powder through it in order to lubricate it with graphite from the powder. Works like a charm.

splattergun said:

On the bright side, despite the sucky instructions, the PPM drops very consistently for me with the powders and volumes I use. YMMV

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Mine too has been quite accurate. FYI, try to keep the hopper full. I fill the hopper, then refill once it reaches the 50% mark.

I think a lot of these reloading outfits need some real help in their "Directions" department. It's good for THR though I guess, I wonder how many people have initially joined to find out how to get their new gizmo working. I know I leaned (or lean) pretty heavily on the forum for such.

Only issue I've found, is if I use a fine powder like AA#7, unless I have the side screw in tight, powder comes out the side. So I tighten for that powder, makes dropping the powder a pain in the rear. I love the N320, I can loosen it so it's easy to turn the handle.

consistent operation is key

I've enjoyed using mine for about 7 years and agree with all the advice given above.

Started off by working a generous pre-treatment of graphite powder through it
and it still dispenses smoothly.

I don't pay detailed attention to the cc scale, instead noting approx. where on the black plastic stem I get the desired load, then quickly refining to the exact load while checking with my 505.

I dispense with a repeatable up and down motion, and give the edge of the drum 2 light fingertip taps to knock any hung-up granules. Motion and mechanical consistency are key to working any pow measure.

Despite being an inexpensive product, the Lee PPM does a very good job for me.

If you're familiar with how to use a micrometer, the Lee powder thrower works similar in regards to the way to get a measurement. Once i dial mine in, I record the number on the thrower for future reference as a jumping off point, which saves you alot of time.

I know what you're saying, getting a jumping off point...but you know, Ive noticed, and this is with a Pro Auto Disk and a Lee Charge Bar, that rarely will the same setting provide me with the same drop as it did when I made the load the first time. Also, even if I leave for a bit, keep everything the same, powder still in the hopper and everything, and come back to finish my session, I will have to often adjust my setting to get it back dropping the right amount.

What's up with that? Is the consistency of the powder so inconsistent that some parts of the hopper will flow differently, or does humidity affect it or what? Or am i the only one that sees this and something is haywire with either my brain or technique?

The charge will change as the powder settles somewhat. This will happen more quickly once the measure is being used. The vibrations of operations will cause the powder to settle more densely. I usually tap the side of the hopper with my fingers several times after adding powder to help the process out.

If you try to use all the powder in the hopper, leaving only a small bit in the bottom may cause light charges.

Also, if you leave the press with powder in it and the hopper turned on, your first charge may be a bit higher. I usually just chuck the first charge back in the hopper and retest the next few loads with a scale.

This is an issue with just about any volume charging system.

Mine is the most accurate measure I own when loading the "logs" (most IMR powders)

If the measure leaks very fine powder: take the rotor out and fit lap it against the body with fine sandpaper.

The Lee PPM will also benefit from a powder baffle, the hopper being more than25% full, and some break-in time.

I also bought the ppm for "log" powders. IMR 3031, 4198, 4895 as well as H4895 all drop consistently, whereas AA5744 varies up to .4gr. In order to achieve this though, I had to tap lightly on the base 10 times every time, both positions. Fewer taps resulted in greater variation. I don't have a baffle on this measure yet though, but probably wouldn't make any difference after all the tapping. Honestly, I think it's faster to just weigh each charge by tapping with a finger on a dipper. At least you "know" exactly what the end result is. As usual, Unique also didn't fare very well, regardless of technique used.

gonoles 1980 said:

Ignore directions. Just make sure the silver collar isn't loose. Turn the knob clockwise to open it up, counterclockwise to close. I find that each single notch is close to a 1/10th of a grain, 1 full turn is near a grain. Just dump some, weight, then dial to the appropriate direction. I've gotten to where I can get the weight I want in 3-5 tries. Once it's set, I weight after the first 5, then 25, and every 25 after that. I've found that I very seldom have to adjust once I've got it working.

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I've run pounds of powder through my PPM using the same method. I've never looked at the numbers on the stem and wouldn't swear they're even still on the thing.

Personally I've never even paid attention to the numbers. Screw it out for more powder and in for less. I'll just throw charges to the scale until I'm about where I want to be and then tighten the collet and leave it.

Once you do this enough you can a pretty good feel for how much turning is needed for a given change. Doesn't take more than 2 minutes or so to dial in a charge.

For the most part it works very well. There a few powders that haven't metered well on my Lee PPM (namely Red Dot and 700-X) but they didn't do so great on a Hornady measure that I have either.

Personally I've never even paid attention to the numbers. Screw it out for more powder and in for less.

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Me either. Only to jot it in the log so I can use it as a reference later if I so desire.

TBH I never got the hang of the darn thing myself. I tried don't get me wrong but never seemed to figure out the trick. Now I just dial it out until it's a few grains lower then my target charge. So in essence what I do:

1) Throw the lever for the powder
2) Take powder and transfer to digital scale
3) slowly add powder until target weight is reached.

Then before I actually end up seating a bullet I measure it probably 2 or 3 times more during the process but I'm just paranoid like that lol.

Put a baffle in it. If you have an empty powder bottle, trace the diameter of the hopper on a piece of plastic from it. Cut out the circle, then cut out two small triangles from the edge opposite one another. Bend it in the middle 90 degrees from the cut out, test fit in the hopper.

Ha ha ha ha . . . the Lee PPM looks like something you would buy at the 99 cent store but it works as well as my Redding powder measure . . . especially with extruded powders. And yeah, it can lead like a sieve with fine flake or ball powders. You just want to make certain you don't drop your cigar or you'll blow yourself into the next zip code.