Recomendations for suppressor cleaning?

wcoats · Sep 7, 2014

I have a .30 cal suppressor with SS K baffles that can be disassembled. I am mostly using is on a .300 BLK AR, .223 AR and also put it on my .22 once just for fun. I haven't been able to get it particularly clean and looking for recommendations on cleaning methods, tools and solvents. I figure the SS can probably stand up to some pretty harsh cleaning. My first thoughts were to use CLP and a bras brush, but this doesn't seem to be working as well at getting build up off as I expected. So looking for new ideas. Here are some pictures after attempting to clean it with CLP and a bras brush:

As you can see I didn't make a lot of progress, I feel like there has to be a better way to do this.

Thanks for any help

HDHNTER · Sep 7, 2014

The Dip, Google it.

Gik-tal · Sep 7, 2014

I came up with a simple four step cleaning method I use, first soak all parts to be cleaned in a jar with simple green, then take it out and brush it off with a bronze or brass brush. Then soak in Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil, repeat with the brushes, then soak in Mineral Sprits and again brush. This seems to remove most of the fouling and carbon. Then last I soak them in some acetone to remove any oil or other chemicals, let dry and reassemble. How long you let them soak will depend on how dirty they are.

boricua9mm · Sep 7, 2014

Ultrasonic cleaner and a 50/50 mix of Purple Power and water. Lately, I've found that the ZEP brand of purple degreaser, found at Home Depot, is stronger than Purple Power, which cuts down o the cleaning time inside the tank.

Gtscotty · Sep 7, 2014

The dip works like magic, highly toxic magic.

wcoats · Sep 7, 2014

HDHNTER said:
The Dip, Google it.

Just googling dip comes up with lots of different things. The most probable of what I found is Chem-Dip Carburetor and parts cleaner
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/pro...rryman-chem-dip-carburetor-and-parts-cleaner/
Is that what you use?

Arizona_Mike · Sep 7, 2014

Pretty sure he means a 50/50 mix of 3% hydrogen peroxide and distilled vinegar. The acidity of the vinegar protects the metal from corrosion, the oxygen from the peroxide oxidizes the lead which is subsequently reduced by the vinegar making soluble lead acetate carrying it away. Works great on pistol suppressors, esp rimfire suppressors. Does not clean powder residue or char. There is usually little or no leading on rifle cans unless you shoot a lot of subsonic.

You are left with highly toxic lead acetate which you need to do something with. You could probably store many years worth before you had to find a way to dispose of it.

Mike

Ironman · Sep 8, 2014

DONT USE THE DIP IF YOU DONT HAVE TO!

Get a $60 USC from harbor freight and use a 50/50 mix of water and zep. Let the machine do the work for you. Get some thick chemical gloves so your skin doesn't absorb any lead when removing the parts and washing them.

Elkins45 · Sep 8, 2014

I also have a user serviceable 30 cal can and I shoot lubricated cast lead bullets through it almost exclusively. As you might imagine there is a substantial amount of lead and burned lube residue in it.

My goals in cleaning it are just to keep the tolerances on the diameter of the core (it's a monocore) clear so I can insert and remove it easily. I only try to remove the worst of the fouling from the faces of the baffles because a little roughness on those surfaces actually disrupts gas flow better and makes it a bit quieter.

My solution is to drop the whole thing into a plastic tube and completely immerse it in a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and mineral spirits. After an overnight soak I can just tap the core right out and then give the inside of the tube a good scrubbing with a bottle brush and then a rag to remove the residue.

I have found that lightly coating the baffles with silver automotive anti-seize makes disassembly MUCH easier than when I was just oiling it before reassembly.

wcoats · Sep 8, 2014

Elkins45 said:
I also have a user serviceable 30 cal can and I shoot lubricated cast lead bullets through it almost exclusively. As you might imagine there is a substantial amount of lead and burned lube residue in it.

My goals in cleaning it are just to keep the tolerances on the diameter of the core (it's a monocore) clear so I can insert and remove it easily. I only try to remove the worst of the fouling from the faces of the baffles because a little roughness on those surfaces actually disrupts gas flow better and makes it a bit quieter.

My solution is to drop the whole thing into a plastic tube and completely immerse it in a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and mineral spirits. After an overnight soak I can just tap the core right out and then give the inside of the tube a good scrubbing with a bottle brush and then a rag to remove the residue.

I have found that lightly coating the baffles with silver automotive anti-seize makes disassembly MUCH easier than when I was just oiling it before reassembly.

thanks for the info.

if you don't mind me asking what is the baffle design look like for the monocore? I've been thinking about doing a form 1 to make a .223 can and wondering about monocore designs for centerfire cans.

Icky The Great · Sep 14, 2014

I have a YHM Phantom that is fully welded. I use Ballistol and fill it part way and shake it vigorously. Drain it and let it dry. If ever I intend to do a serious cleaning on it I would use an ultrasonic cleaner and rinse it thoroughly. Local shop does cleanouts and they said it works fine.

Elkins45 · Sep 15, 2014

wcoats said:
thanks for the info.

if you don't mind me asking what is the baffle design look like for the monocore? I've been thinking about doing a form 1 to make a .223 can and wondering about monocore designs for centerfire cans.

It's a Thompson Machine Thirty. You can do a Google image search and find pix. I would just insert one but I can't copy img code from my phone.

wally · Sep 17, 2014

The new Gem-Tech multi-mount comes apart for cleaning, the older models didn't. They told me when I asked: you must clean it if you shoot lead bullets or .22lr. If you only shoot jacketed bullets there is no need to clean it and its expected life will be ~150K rounds. If you decide to clean it, do so after about every 200 rounds.

Their rifle suppressors do not come apart and they don't recommend cleaning them.

When in doubt, ask the manufacturer.

Recomendations for suppressor cleaning?

wcoats

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HDHNTER

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Gik-tal

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boricua9mm

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Gtscotty

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wcoats

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Arizona_Mike

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Ironman

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Elkins45

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wcoats

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Icky The Great

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wally

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