Painting an AR

I think Krylon makes an tougher "camo" paint that comes in flat colors. Most of the bigger stores should have it, I painted a few stock with it and it held up better than expected

I used Krylon camo with a matte clear coat. I'm very happy with the results. Its not the most durable finish available but its cheap and easy to strip and repaint if you desire.

Aervoe paint. Tougher than all the above mentioned.

http://aervoe.com/paints_coatings/Military-Vehicle-and-Recreation-Camouflage-Paint.html

Used some Rust-oleum "Camouflage 2x ultra cover" I picked up at wally on one back in the summer.
Doubt I spent 20 minutes wiping it down before spraying, but:

No complaints & don't think I have 20 bucks in the three colors I got.
Not to mention, there's enough left in those cans to do a couple more or redo one at least another time or two if I stop liking how it looks.

Rustoleum
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I used a very diluted solution of Purple Power cleaner and water as hot as I could stand to remove clean the parts before painting. Don't over-think it, just do it. Use light coats and be patient. The paint will wear off and will need to be touched up but it's worth it in my opinion. I used tans & browns so the rifle keeps cooler in the sun

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Krylon.

If you don't like it, or your environment changes, it comes off easy or you can just pile it on...

Another vote for Aervoe, it comes closer than anything else to the true colors and is Very tough.

Are you going to use stencils or go with natural sea sponge patterning?

If you want a good compromise between cerakote and spray paint, order alumahyde from brownells. You can bake it after you put it on and it sets it. Almost as good as cerakote.. I've done about 5 ars in it. It's really hard. Personally I use cerakote now. But if I didn't do my own cerakote I'd use alumahyde.. And it comes in rattle cans

Start with lighter, darken as necessary.

A lot of people go too dark. A 2x4 is a great testbed while you figure out what camo works best for you.

Do tan snakeskin.. It is really effective in the desert. Paint the whole gun dark brown. Stretch your wife/girlfriend/neighbors wife's fish nets over the gun. Zip tie it tight in the Voids (Magwell etc...) then put a thin coat of a couple different tans and or grey over the top.. let dry clear coat with satin/flat clear

Another color that does VERY well in high desert/drier climes is plain ol' olive drab. I am always surprised at how adaptable and versatile it is. OD remains a consistent "all-terrain" color. And its the color of choice for my rifle.

i used the Rustoleum brand mentioned in one of the above posts. It looks really good IMO but it does come off easy. It is really easy to touch up though. Attached is a pic of my hunting rifle that I camoed.

Cheap walmart rattle can here.

I've used Rustoleum like mist wolf posted on 3 different rifles.

In the case of the AR I didn't do much in the way of degreasing and it shows. On the other hand, I really don't care. Seems like some plastic stocks need longer for the paint to 'set'.... Or dry, so to speak.

Dude, SVTOhio how did you get that digital look with a rattle can? It looks awesome.

http://www.peosoldier.army.mil/docs/blog/weaponspainting101.pdf

Remember - pretty isn't the point of camo.

As paint gets abraded and the weapon used, the high points wear off to reveal the black anodizing, which adds to breaking up the outline.

Ive used Testors Military Flats model paints since the 60's, and always had good results. Lots of colors to match pretty much any pattern you might want to try and duplicate.

Holds up well, and is easily touched up, if you feel the need. I have one gun that was painted over 25 years ago, and has had a good bit of use, never been touched up, and still going strong. It shows wear in heavy contact points, but thats to be expected.

Comes off completely with a little work too. Ive also stripped another gun a few years back, that was painted at the same time, and the bluing underneath, was about perfect. The only spots that showed any finish wear, were a few small spots that had the paint worn through.

I have tried some Krylon with the last couple Ive painted, and its been OK. The colors arent consistent between lots, so just dont go by the cap, or the last can you bought.

It seems to come off OK too, but I didnt use the "Fusion" stuff on plastic, so Im not sure there.

Ive used Alma Hyde II, on all sorts of stuff, and when applied following the directions to the letter, its tough stuff, and works great. Its not coming off short of a bead blast though. Ive used it for a base on a couple of guns, and then Testors on top for the patterns. I later removed the Testors, and the AH II was ready for the next pattern.

I used to take things apart to paint, and still would for somethings, depending what i was doing. Anymore though, I just tape off what i dont want painted, and have at it. Just degrease good, including your hands, and paint away.

Ive been into Multicam of late. Its one of the easiest patterns to do, and works great in the field......

Does anyone make a non-baked solvent-resistant paint?
My SMG gets very dirty and it's not the simplest gun to clean (not modular or easily stripped). I would love to use Powder Blast (a blend of acetone, xylene, and citrus oil) or brake cleaner but the seller's finish (which was a bake on) came right off on a test spot.

Mike

To be solvent resistant it will have to be catalyzed.. which means in simple terms a chemical reaction that changes the property of the paint. You would need a resin or heat to be the catalyst.. that's why urethane paint on your car is two part. Cerakote is two part and baked...

I redid my MP5 after a lot of hard use with Aluma Hyde II. Never had any troubles with solvents, but I didnt use what you have listed. I do use Gun Scrubber though, which is basically brake cleaner.

Last paint job for the MP5 using AH II......



I really never had any troubles with just cheap paint and solvent. It wears off around the muzzle over time, but unless youre real sloppy, and get it all over everything, and let it sit, I really dont see it being an issue.

Have you considered dye?

It won't work on the metal parts but will work great on the plastic (assuming you start with a light color like FDE/Tan). It "soaks" into the material so it won't just scratch off like paint would.

Check this out:

http://imgur.com/a/Pp912

For DIY camo, every picture looks pretty damn good....

makes me want to try my hand at one, especially with some of the good tips in here

so I ordered some stencils (mostly for painting steel targets but a few for camo)

the fishnet technique seems very intriguing.

anyone have a preference for stencils? recommendations, tips, techniques, etc?

-Matt S.