1858 conversion: need technical advice

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wheelyfun66

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Hey All,
It's been a long while since I posted here, but I've frequently stopped in to read all the posts.

Just bought a new Cimarron (Uberti) 1858 factory conversion (45LC).

I've owned many revolvers, but never seen the following problem.

When I cock the hammer, the entire cylinder "dips down" along the horizontal plane within the cylinder frame window....and then comes back up when the hammer reaches full cock.

The cylinder nearly "bottoms out" within the cylinder frame window, but is not making contact with the frame.

As I said, by the time full cock is reached....everything is fine.

I haven't even fired this yet, as it just came in.

Any advice? I will not have a chance to shoot it until next week.

What parts would need to be.....out of spec, for the entire cylinder to travel downward while cocking?

Thanks!
 
Check your cylinder pin. Either this is out of spec or you cylinder has is incorrectly bored for the axis pin. I am not certain as to the ejector housing on your gun. Is it possible that the cylinder pin has moved forward and is no longer supported in the recoil shield?
 
Thanks for the reply!
I'm away for the weekend, so cannot check the revolver out, but will take your advice when able.

Under lockup, the cylinder feels normal, with very little movement or play....

I'll get it out to the range next week, and make sure it functions normally.....

I know my description of the "problem" wasn't too clear.....but I've never experienced a revolver where the cylinder seemed to move downward and then back up while being cocked!
 
Think I would postpone shooting that until you are sure it is mechanically sound. Since it's brand new, contacting the manufacturer before you shoot it would be in order. OYE
 
As soon as you touch that hammer the hand starts coming up to turn the cylinder but you say the cylinder drops down. I have to agree there may be a problem with the cylinder pin which is real narrow anyway on a Remmy. Or the channel on cylinder was cut out of spec in relation to the cylinder pin. I'd send it back before shooting it and get another.
 
You definately have a problem! The cylinder will not change its axis throughout the firing cycle unless one end or another of the cylinder pin is free or unless there is excessive play between the pin and the cylinder. Either way, the evidence says that your cylinder is free at time of fire in its existing condition.
 
Thanks fellas!
I'll be home within a day, and will check into things again....

Probably shouldn't have posted until I was at home, so I could have checked out all of your solutions and advice!

Happy Memorial Day! Big salute to our fallen soldiers/sailors/airmen/marines!
 
Update:
The cylinder pin is definitely seated all the way.

The cylinder definitely "dips" down while action is being cocked.

I cannot remove cylinder pin, due to 5.5" barrel being too short, and thus ram lever latch is "in the way".

I have contacted Cimarron to see about a call tag, and will provide info here as the repair process happens.

My instinct tells me that the spot where the cylinder pin stops or rests at full seat...is oblong or out of spec.

As soon as the hammer starts back and the cylinder stop drops away...the cylinder drops with it.
 
I cannot remove cylinder pin, due to 5.5" barrel being too short, and thus ram lever latch is "in the way".
Good reason to stick with 8" barrel.
Does the original cylinder do the same thing? The flat on the bottom arbor could be excessive or the cylinder bore just a little oversize.
If it is the arbor and the latch not dovetailed you would need professional help to unscrew the barrel enough to remove the arbor.
 
I cannot remove cylinder pin, due to 5.5" barrel being too short, and thus ram lever latch is "in the way".
Good reason to stick with 8" barrel.
Does the original cylinder do the same thing? The flat on the bottom arbor could be excessive or the cylinder bore just a little oversize.
If it is the arbor and the latch not dovetailed you would need professional help to unscrew the barrel enough to remove the arbor.
The "original" cylinder is the only cylinder in discussion, as this is a factory conversion, not a black powder revolver.
The factory conversions are slightly larger than the black powder and a black powder cylinder will not fit in them.

The revolver is on the way back to Cimarron's gunsmith as we speak!
 
The short barreled guns have a lever latch as a slide fit in the dovetail, you can push it out with your fingers to remove the lever and get the pin out. The thing to watch for is that the latch stays in the dovetail when you're using the revolver.

Shooters that have shortened the longer barreled guns sometimes cut the cylinder pin and make a hinge in it so the pin can be removed. There are some photos of that mod on the net here or other.
 
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