Will firing non-corrosive ammo flush out corrosive salt?

I believe that shooting a few rounds of non corrosive ammo after a session of shooting corrosive will remove a good bit of the corrosive salts.

But it doesn't really matter.

Corrosive salts are kinda like pregnancy that way...

Sarge 13,

Interesting bout your MAC 10 experience.

What makes of .45ACP are corrosive. I would hate to shoot any in a pistol or revolver and not know.

-kBob

Try ballistol good stuff

I don't know of any fresh corrosive .45 ACP, certainly nothing made in USA or made for import here. A few years ago there were large supplies of WWII surplus reimported from wartime allies who didn't like it anyhow, but most of that has been shot up.

The main advantage of Ballistol is that it is emulsifiable in water, which is what the potassium chloride residue needs in the first place.

Nope, but a few patches soaked with Windex will.

Then clean as normal, lube, and you're good to go.

Will firing non-corrosive ammo flush out corrosive salt?

Up to a point. Corrosive salts are best flushed out with water. I used to use ammonia and water followed by dry patches then CLP. Worked for me.

Sarge 13,
Interesting bout your MAC 10 experience.
What makes of .45ACP are corrosive. I would hate to shoot any in a pistol or revolver and not know.
-kBob

US military surplus made before 1955. Seldom see any around the gun shows now, but every once in a while I find a box or 2.

No, that merely proves you are lucky.
A friend came over and shot his Mosin. By the time he got home (2 hrs.) , there was rust forming in the barrel.

Could be, But if so my luck has lasted for 35+ years!
Sarge

Hi, Sarge,

Not sure on laws, but if you could fire that MAC-10 with corrosive ammo in the DC area in August, you would learn something about corrosive primers and humidity that you won't find out in a dry area. I once had a brand new Model 39 S&W rust between the time I fired it and the three hours it took to get to a washroom and scrub the barrel with hot water.

Jim

While they probably wouldn't like it - I could take the MAC to the DC area because I'm a class 3 dealer.
I quite normally carry either a Thompson or a CAR 15 with me when I'm traveling.
If you will reread my original post you will see that I have taken my guns to humid areas on many occasions. In recent years I clean everything good at the end of the shooting session in humid climates.
Sarge

Originally posted by: Sarge 13
While they probably wouldn't like it - I could take the MAC to the DC area because I'm a class 3 dealer.

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That might fly if you had a scheduled demonstration with a Federal Agency and you had only the demonstration weapon with you.

Otherwise, I hope you like institutional food and meeting new people...

Sarge 13 said:

Sorry fellas, But I have a MAC 10 that proves all of you nay sayers wrong!
Since corrosive ammo has almost always been cheaper than NC I have always bought it so I could shoot more.

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Where do you even find corrosive 9mm ammo? Old WWII German surplus? Wolf, Tula, etc aren't corrosive to my knowledge.

Not necessary! While they don't it. there is nothing they can do - ask some dumb ass cops I ran into at a gun show in komifornia.
My lisc allows me to take any full auto &/or suppressed weapon in my inventory anywhere in the US. There is NO scheduled demo needed! I have done so many times over the last 45 yrs.
I rarely find corrosive 9mm anymore, but GI 45 is still around.
Sarge

To add a little contrary evidence and get this thread back on topic I have my 2 cents.


This weekend I fired 10 black powder shotgun shells on the 4th. I then fired about 50 rounds of field loads. A lot of water melons needed to be shot!

I was somewhat curious and somewhat lazy but I didn't clean the gun until tonight. Not a speck of rust on it, and this was a standard Mossberg shotgun.

In the past I've waited until nighttime to clean my "actual" blackpowder shotgun and have had to deal with rust.

It seems to me that firing smokeless/non corrosive shells had some positive effect. The gun spent the remainder of the weekend in my camper shell and if you have watched the news this is one of the rainiest/most humid summers I can recall.

HB

This weekend I fired 10 black powder shotgun shells on the 4th. I then fired about 50 rounds of field loads. A lot of water melons needed to be shot!

Click to expand...

Actual black powder or Pyrodex? What caps?

BSW

There is certainly something to be said for mechanical cleaning methods. Intuitively, it seems probable that a good bit of the corrosive salts will be expelled by the use of non-corrosive ammo thereafter but i would not rely on it exclusively. It would probably take quite a few rounds to get it all out of the barrel. Much more so to remove from the gas tube if firing a semi-auto that taps gas from the barrel.

Actual black powder or Pyrodex? What caps?

Click to expand...

209 primers with Pyrodex. I also have a Knight MK shotgun that I use for turkeys with the same load, this time it was just stuffed in a hull. Then had some smokeless rounds fired afterward.

I have no experience with corrosive centerfire ammo but the Mossberg didn't have speck on it. The Knight will rust in several hours despite being a much higher quality gun (bore is more polished, stainless steel parts etc).

This doesn't prove anything to me but it seems it couldn't hurt. It is a multi thousand PSI wave burning and pushing crud out of the barrel.

HB

I have a New England Westinghouse Mosin Nagant that was pristine, with a perfect bore. I shot some corrosive ammo in it, followed by twenty rounds of non-corrosive. I thought that would protect it until the next morning, when I would clean it.

The next morning it was covered with rust and that perfect bore is now slightly dark.

Does that answer the OPs original post??