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I’ve said this before. I like my 40 DS. It’s an older one that is not cut for moon clips. It Replaced my 4” Ruger Security Six. While I still had both my eldest and I compared the recoil impulse and the 40 DS and the 4” SS and it was noticeably “better” on the Rhino. “Better” being subjective of...

Smart man!

And as I look at the picture, that probably was taken before I addressed the top of the sear and created the clearance.

I agree that is what it looks like and you may well be correct. But that sear is a newly fabricated sear from Jack First. I spent quite a few days working on that interface specifically. I can confirm that there is actually a slight bit of clearance between the top portion of the sear and the...

That is an interesting proposition. I've observed that the rear sear has a lot of room between the diameter of the pin and the diameter of the hole. I had not noticed that on the hammer. I have a lot of things to try but I suppose I could shim the rear sear for the same principle.

@Mark_Mark Just for giggles, here is a video of the action close up with the sound of the clicks that you should hear. There are 3 clicks while cocking and 3 clicks while de-cocking. They are: While cocking 1 - half cock (safety cock) Look at the rear sear on the bottom of the hammer (this...

I learned an important lesson this last week. The specifics are related to the series of posts titled "Tale Of..." but I think the concept is worth repeating here for any work on antique or older firearms that need repair. In all three of the threads titled "Tale of..." I have had issues with...

When I was shopping for my 638 Airweight Snub I rented an Airlight version, I guess they are now called the PD model, at a local range. The Airlight is only 2 oz lighter than the Airweight. After 5 rounds of +P my hand shook for several minutes. Must have pounded a nerve in the palm of my hand...

Here's another video that is useful if you're going to dabble in Smith & Wesson double actions. It is in three parts in a little hard to follow. But, you can see all of the parts and pieces and how they come apart and go together. https://youtu.be/fW5SuNi2CcQ?si=JEq6m2Ip8UkfQ27A Just to...

You are right.

I really like mine. 4”, 357, older model before moon clips. I’m not recoil sensitive but I can certainly re-acquire the front sight quicker. Initial gripes were that the action was too complicated/fragile but I’ve never heard of an issue with the innards. It is too expensive for what it is...

As you almost certainly learned, the. Trigger has to be pulled back to install the hammer and the hammer is oriented in the cocked position to fit. Make sure the hammer stirrup is up and in the indent in the hammer or it will block the hammer from being installed. By pulling the trigger the...

That can only be part of the problem. I can lift the latch out of the way but the course thread still holds the cylinder in place.

Before we delve into replacing hard parts, let's step back a d consider if there's an easy fix. As I look at mine, there is a projection on the bottom of the top latch that is intended to retain The cylinder. For all I know that is the primary way to retain the cylinder. As I see it, even if the...

I'm still learning about H&R revolvers, the 'Auto Ejecting' model was different model than my 'Premier' thogh they appear superficially the same the overlapped production for quite a while. Sure wish we still had Bill Goforth to talk to. I really need to buy his books. Here is what I can find...

I forgot that I own a H&R Premier in 32 S&W made sometime around 1908-1913 and it looks very much like thr OPs. Aat least the cylinder retaining is the same. I can confirm what I wrote above. The threaded part of the center pin engages the inside of the cylinder. I can't close the revolver...

There used to be but the final chapter of the changing history of the Big Thicket hasn’t been written yet. When I left there in 1990 there were rumors that the last black bear was still alive. Sorry for contributing to the thread drift.

I still haven’t come up with a definitive procedure for this H&R top break. But as I look closer at the OPs 3rd photograph one can see a course thread on the end of the center pin (some call it an arbor, others like S&W call it a base pin). This should be what retains the cylinder during the...

Might. I figure that it’ll unscrew one way or the other. I just haven’t gotten to it other than one initial attempt. I have the bent one to practice on. So no loss if I bugger it up. But in the end I’d like to confirm one way or the other.

As I prepared to take pictures of what I described above, I realized what I described was for an Iver Johnson top break. I'll see if I can't retrieve the same information on the H&R.