I began reading his posts shortly after joining the forum some years ago. It didn't take long to realize the knowledge he had of both firearms and reloading. He was always ready to help the newbie and the experienced.
The devotion he had for caring for his wife was outstanding. My prayers go...
Call Hornady Tech Support (not customer service) and explain the problem. They will know what to do. You may have 2 defective shell plates and they will replace. If it's something defective in the press, have them ship it back for adjustment. I have 2 presses which are great but one had problems...
I think you will enjoy the LNL AP and it will produce fine ammo. I've had 2 now for almost 5 years (one set up for small primer and one for large primer). I've had no priming issues or broken parts in almost 90,000 rounds. I did send one press back to Hornady (they paid shipping) the day after...
There are a number of good presses you could get. I've used the Rockchucker for over 40 years and it does a fine job. It has an excellent reputation and you will never wear it out. While I use my progressive for virtually everything I do now, the Rockchucker will remain on my bench for various...
I've used RCBS dies since I started loading in 1974. The lock ring is not the best design and I've used lead shot to insure a good grip on the die. However, over the past few years, I've changed the lock rings to the Hornaday version which I find are excellent and easy to use.
I have the 1989 version which I bought when it first came out. I sold my model 25 to buy the stainless version. From day one, the accuracy and trigger have been excellent. It's one of my favorite revolvers to shoot.
I have both an Ohaus beam scale and an RCBS Chargemaster. If I could only have one scale it would be the beam scale. It will last forever and has been accurate for over 40 years. Check weights are must regardless of type scale you buy.
Like you, I started with my RCBS Rock Chucker in 1974 and used it exclusively until I bought my Hornday LNL AP three years ago. While I load around 18,000 rounds a year, the Hornady fits your needs in my opinion. You don't need case or bullet feeders for the volume you load. You can use your...
When using PTX expanders, you also need to use the PTX Powder Measure Stop ($8) which makes adjusting the case mouth flare easy. I have one set up for each caliber that I use a PTX on. Again, no adjusting when changing calibers.
I bought a Quick Change Powder Die (about $25) for each caliber I load along with a pistol meter insert (about $10). I constantly change pistol calibers and with this set up, I can change powder measure in a matter of seconds with no adjustments.
The T7 press is very good and I'm sure you would be happy with it. I also like the Rockchucker for single stage. Regardless of brand, the heavier the press the more leverage you get which requires less effort on your part while loading. A good press is a lifetime investment so the cost is spread...
You need both a large and small powder rotor along with a large and small powder meter insert (these cost about $10.00) so I have one adjusted for each caliber and load to save time switching calibers. The large is used for rifle and the small for handgun calibers.
I shoot almost nothing but Missouri Bullet 158 gr LSWC. I recently switched to their coated bullet which is just as accurate but much cleaner to shoot and makes cleaning the gun easy. While slightly more expensive than the standard lead bullet, I think it's worth it.
Your post indicates that you are getting good accuracy and complete reliability with your current load so the only thing I would do is load a few batches increasing the powder by .1 gr on each batch to see if you notice any improvement. You may very well have your perfect load already.
I agree with others that it more than likely a primer seating problem. If they will fire on the second try, depth of the primer is your problem. If this is not the problem, I would check the spring and firing pin.
I clean my brass before sizing and depriming. If there is anything stuck in the primer hole, the depriming punch will knock it out.
I have removed a number of live primers from brass. Just push slowly as you remove it and wear saftety glasses. I also remove any unused primers from the area...
Do you know what recoil spring is in the gun now and how old it is. Also what ammo are you using. Increasing the spring weight slightly will probably solve the problem or the current spring be may be worn out. Using light ammo could mean you need a lighter spring.
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