If you can't find one, we have literally a bucket full of various J22s in our shop we're not planning on putting back together. Postage might cost as much as the part.
EAA Windicator. The front action pin was severely hard to punch. The action, when you slide it out, is full of little pins and springs. Just like the old RG40 almost.
However, the Uberti Scout/Silverboy is right up there too. Had to replace a broken lever on a Silverboy..ugh.. Once I figured...
I just for the first time in my life was handed a Ruger Standard that spent a long time stored with 3in1 oil, it was locked up solid.
Flip down the lever in the back of the grip, pull out the bolt retainer assembly, separate the grip frame from the barrel assembly, pull the bolt out, remove the...
OGCA members;
March 14-15, 2020 Meeting Canceled due to
Health Risks of the coronavirus
Dear Members and Guests,
For the protection of our members and fellow citizens, we have decided to cancel the March 14-15 meeting/show. We appreciate your patience and forbearance. This has been a...
The plastic trigger guard is a really nit picky thing people worry about breaking.
I've worked on hundreds of mossberg shotguns. I think I've seen maybe three with broken trigger housings, and those were the ears that locate the front of the assembly into the receiver, not the actual trigger...
Found a postwar long action 38-44HD marked as a pre model 10 at a pawn shop. Came home with me.
Bought an EAA Witness Steel Compact 45 for the price if a witness-P because they didn't know better.
Bought a Colt Agent with the shrouded hammer cheap because the store thought somebody has added a...
Harrington& Richardson.
The year can be determined by the letters in front of the serial number.
1940 was A then continued to Z, 1964 was AA. They ended in 1982 with AY.
Value roughly a hundred bucks, cheap but decent little guns.
One of the finest examples of a Smith revolver ever produced in my opinion. I have a soft spot for pre 57 models. And an even softer spot for pre-ww2 models but that's not relevant in this thread.
Smith changed the front sight in 1952.
Your cylinder and barrel are what we call "plum". I've seen...
We've been using a sort of aged denim color blue tablecloth. Sets off both blued and stainless nicely in the typical high bay lights you find in big halls.
I love the 520s.
Bought a couple of them in "bag of parts" form, assembled them into working guns, now I buy all I find. I'm fortunate in that I have a steady source for around 50 bones.
This post made me spend far too long in the Search function for this December 2009 post I made:
"Been looking for a S&W .357 Mag K-frame to keep my other K's company.
Seems to be that the only ones I can find are in the $400+ range.
Been looking at a nice tight 2.5" barrel no-dash Mod. 66...
I collect "low end" guns like Iver Johnsons...Cadets, Vikings, etc.
Also Harrington & Richardson.
While they are a bit crude by modern standards, they strike me as well made and good looking.
You can bet a close measurement of hardness using a set of artist's pencils of various hardness. It's an accepted industry practice actually.
Generally, the ingots that thud instead of clink will be soft lead which is what you want for round balls.
What difference does it make!
We're chewing old bones here.
As long as you are shooting SAAMI-spec ammunition in the firearm for which it is designed, cast or forged won't matter. Generally there is an engineered safety margin that is generously calculated.
What it comes down to is personal...
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