well, when you take a piece of steel and change it's shape and size with fire and force, that is called forging. was it completely forged to final size and shape, no. not many people do that. kudos to those that do. i get the distinct feeling that you just don't care for me or my work...
thanks, fellas. Sam, my pop makes many of the forged blanks that i use. he has a larger forge and hammer. most of the 5160 comes from old leaf springs, he cuts them into chunks/billets and brings them down into roughly 1/4" by 12" bar blanks for me. he only does this from time to time, so i...
this is number one in a limited series of neo-tribal designs i am doing in the next few months. i have had these designs rattling around in my head for a while and had to get them out. some of you guys know what i mean. this one is 10" overall and is from forged 5160 spring steel. handle is...
many thanks. i just wanted to do some simple, traditional pieces. working on some new things with bone and antler handles. haven't done that in a long time.
liontribe
this is a new one from the knife farm. 1095 and stabilized quilted cream maple. acid etched finish and a hollow grind. pics don't do the wood justice. handle is completely smooth and very rounded. think single action revolver grip. very comfy in hand.
liontribe
yeah, i have seen the Mexican Nicholson files. not sure what they are cut from. i try to find the US made files. they are getting harder and harder to find. i like to check out the local pawn shops and the like for old files. pawn shops around here always have a good supply of old hand...
thanks all. i anneal the files before i grind and shape them. then i heat treat them like i would 1095. they seem to be very similar to the 10xx series of carbon steels and they take a great heat treat. they may very well be 1095, for all i know. i just know that this HT works great for...
wish i could get $600 each for my file knives. i think the most expensive bare file knife i make is less than $150 and that includes a sheath. wow. i must be doing it wrong. :evil:
liontribe
i will try and get a pic tomorrow of the thickness and the little kydex sheath. i will just guess off the top of my head and say that it is probably 1/8" thick across the flats. the blade itself is nice and thin, being hollow ground. i took pains to make sure i didn't get it too thin across...
thanks for the good words. so, you think these would be worth doing a small batch? i have a metric crap-ton of these small files that my son gave me a while back. they use them at his work and they just toss buckets of them each month after just a bit of use. i might see if i can get a nice...
much appreciated, fellas. i like to make knives that you can stash on your person or gear and just forget about them until needed. i have been making a lot of smaller designs lately. they just seem more useful in day to day life.
liontribe
here is a fun little stowaway knife. 6.5" long cut from a small nicholson file. small, thin and sharp as a razor. a bit of kydex should work nicely for a sheath. i forgot how hard it is to work with such small designs. not much room to hold when grinding.
liontribe
yeah, that has been my observation as well. i want the neck knives to be small but still fill the hand comfortably if it has to be pressed into work that would otherwise be reserved for a bigger blade. you never know what you might need it for. maybe i will do a few in different lengths and...
I have been making most of my EDC knives around 7" long and the dedicated neck knives around 6" overall or smaller. What size do you guys prefer in a neck knife? I am planning a small run of the Cypher design soon. I want to make it as small as possible and still provide plenty to get a hold...
i generally test my designs with cardboard and/or paper. wet and dry depending. bigger designs i will trim brush and so forth. basically whatever it is meant to be used for. i make all my knives to be comfortable in the hand. i pay more attention to the bigger knives that would be used for...
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