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Blast and blue for around $85 is not too bad. I don't want to invest too much on this old thing though since I don't even know how it shoots. If it turns out to be a heck of a shooter with plenty of life left I might swing for the professional blueing in the future. For now, I just wanted to...

kg?

I am also considering the Duplicolor Engine paint instead. Any knowledge on that one? I saw several THR posts on it as well.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=470470 Awesome! I will give Duplicolor a try. Beats waiting and paying to have it shipped and if it doesn't work I am only down a few bucks and and a couple of hours of re-sanding. I was hoping to get more pictures... but meh. By the way, how much...

I had not given thought to paints intended for other purposes. Aluma-Hyde is an epoxy paint, I am not sure what Duplicolor is, but if it is meant to go on wheels it might work. I do not have a sprayer so anything I use has to come from a spray can. That is why I had chosen the Brownell's...

I tracked down the owner and exchanged a few words via email. He said he had it duracoated mate black. Mentioned he didn't like is as it flaked at the crown so he will strip it down and have it parkerized. I believe Duracoat is baked on. Gunkote has a similar bake on formula. I am planning on...

Here is one to start us off, I found it while browsing online. I believe the owner used matte black, but the lighting can play tricks. http://media.photobucket.com/image/custommauser.jpg/CoopFTW/Custom%2520Mauser/CustomMauser.jpg Which finish will hide more imperfections? Which one would...

Well its time to order the Aluma-Hyde paint discussed on here earlier. It will be used to coat the barrel and receiver on my rifle build. I am debating between black matte and black satin. I know, it shouldn't be this tough of a decision, but I want to make this build look good and you all's...

Found this regarding the k98k. http://claus.espeholt.dk/mediearkiv/waae.pdf Shows the a table with the WaA: 655 and Code: 42 which matches the year 1940. Also tells the factory and location: Mauserwerke - Oberndorf. I wish it would say more about the rifle though.

Thanks guys I will keep cleaning this little guy up to take it to the range soon and report back findings. Thanks for the info Float Pilot, very much appreciated. Were the M40's built any different than the standard 98 Mausers or was it simply a different caliber? How do I check if the bolt is...

Thanks!

Still have not figured out exactly where the rifle came from. It has Mod. 98 on the left side of receiver, Nazi insignias on the left and right sides of receiver, 1940 stamped on top of receiver with a 42 stamped above that. The barrel is 21" does not have the steps but rather is conical...

Sigh of relief... Nonetheless, I am prepping the barrel and receiver but it is taking too long. I am using cloth sand paper or what ever it's called. Using 220 for starters, but have 320, 400, and 600 laying aside to use progressively. Is this an OK method? I am doing the same for the bolt...

One last question... How long can the barrel be left at bare metal without it starting to rust? I got excited and went ahead and started cleaning the barrel/receiver up but have yet to get the paint... doh!

It does have a big 1940 like you say with the addition of a 42 stamped above that. It is also stamped with "Mod. 98" on the left side. The interesting markings (to me) are the Nazi insignias on the left and right side of the receiver (the eagle carrying the swastika on the left next to the...

Are Bold and Timney triggers comparable? The Bold seems to be more in my price range.

I will have to look into a new trigger since there doesn't appear to be a viable quick fix for the old trigger. Thanks.

It is a 98 German Mauser from 1940 rechambered to 308. edit: Well I started cleaning the heck out of the barrel today. I didn't own a cleaning kit so had not had the chance to do so. The barrel was filthy. I spent about 45 minutes on it and with each clean the rifling became clearer and...

In my old Mauser 98... How much rifling should be noticeable at the muzzle versus the entirety of the barrel? When I look down the tube from the receiver it shows nice prominent and clean riffling, but looking into the barrel from the muzzle the rifling is very shallow and not very visible for...

So it is "normally" abnormal to do this... hmm... I was under the impression I had a large ring mauser. It was the appropriate longer spacing between the guard screws, it cocks when bolt is pulled back not pushed forward, etc... It is a German 1940 rifle with Mod. 98 stamped on the receiver...