First do a cut down the center with a std endmill smaller than the slot.This will take the bulk of the load off the cutter. I run my at 600 rpm but I'm working on SS which is a little tougher.
I went through the Wolf primers back then. Really had to lean in to them to make sure they were bottomed out.
0.003" seating depth is only valid if you have measured the primer pockets and primer seat height and that is what you get. I really think 0.003" is the min suggested, where the range...
The NO Lube was a marketing thing when carbide sizing dies came out. Back then until recently there was only a small ring limiting surface area contact. Now with full length carbide like a std steel dies lube is required. I lube all my brass when sizing, OS into the hopper of my brass feeder...
I noticed that too. Which means the primer MUST be Fully seated in the pocket to support the anvil. Those brass with rounded primer pockets corners will prevent the anvil from getting supported.
Nice work.
It take more time to setup than to do the cuts. I made a fixture to level the slide in the vice so setup is a lot quicker. You have done a bunch of work, dot site mount, front site, porting, beside cutting the flats. Old mills in some cases are better than a cheap new one. If you...
Just make sure you clean out the dispenser tube if your using a electronic dispenser. A lot of powder can be stored in one. I normally set the load range real high to make it spin at max speed. Then tilt the unit to help the small flakes come out. Once done I will use some compressed air.
The biggest problem will the the lead dust from the primers in a confined area. Need to find lead free primers if your going to do that.
I use to shoot the Speer Plastic bullets in my garage. Hearing protection is recommended.
Plated and jacketed are different but in a 45acp, the low pressure want make any difference. I my testing with plated bullets, is that the accuracy drops off around mid way when using jacketed data. I use lead data a lot of times for plated bullets. Start low and workup. Berry's use to recommend...
All it takes is drop of water to cause a barrel bulge. Those that hunt in wet conditions will put a piece of tape over the end of the barrel. This blows off when fired not hurting accuracy but keep the water out.
I've seen both type but I could not tell you who the bow-tie anvils were made by.
@AJC1 may be right in that its the reduced sensitivity Mil spec primers.
I used a set of Number drill bits to open the inside up, reducing the force. I just kept working up in drill size by hand, no power tools till I got the results I wanted.
btw. I have an old utility knife just like that.
I have more tools than the average person, been collecting them for 50+ yrs, and use them when called for.
What I was trying to get across is if you don't know what your working with on pocket depth the primer seating depth you get may not tell the whole story. I would bet you could measure a...
To me seating depth is not a good reference unless all of your pockets are the same depth, and you know what it is. You MUST preload the anvil for a primer to go off. If you have deep pockets (0.008") and seat the primer 0.003" but you still have a gap your going to have a problem.
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