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I'm going to carry it, i've carried Glocks for ever and I feel (even though some say it's ok) that reloading rounds for a Glock (unsupported case) has proved disastrous in the past. Plus my wife wants her ccw and I would like to have just 1 or 2 loads that use the same projectile (ie 38 & 357)...

I'm wanting to move to the dark side (ha ha:eek:) and trade my Glocks for revolvers but the problem is that i know a Glock in and out and I don't know squat about revolvers. I did read the sticky above and did the checks that is recomended but I have a guy wanting to trade me a Colt Cobra .38...

I should have read all the posts before I put in my 2 cents. If this safe is over 400 lbs you don't need to bolt it down. To correct the problem of the door swinging open use a piece of 1" oak plywood cut to the dimensions of the safe bottom you can then shim it so the door doesn't slam or swing...

I don't know what anchors you are going to use but I/we use a hollow carpet/gasket punch that matches the diameter of the fastener, you will probably use 1/2" or 5/8" fasteners. Set the safe and mark, punch holes and keep the plugs so if you move or get rid of the safe you can glue the plugs...

Thanks guys that did help alot. Its been shooting factory loads perfectly fine for quite some time now so why change. Thanks again Mike

So I must be a dip#%$@ or something, but I have a question about measuring my rifles chamber length. It is my understanding that .030-.070 off the lands is where I want my bullet to be in a loaded cartridge. If that is true then my C.O.A.L. is going to be excessively long. I have a Ruger M77 300...