This is a problem i suspected when I first shot it but as I've gotten better with it I'm convinced - one specific cylinder chamber is sending a bullet high. at 25 feet the round is about 6" high give or take. The only physical problem with this gun is a worn (I think it's called a Pawl) thing...
I would have to say the GP100 is the best value on the market nowadays. They have rougher yet lighter triggers than the modern smiths. That being said my two modern Smiths are OK after several trips back to factory.
I really want a python too, but my model 19 is about as nice a gun as I'd...
I just re-re-checked it. The middle screw is sort of difficult to get down but not more so really than my newer S&W revolvers. It's no more really than the width of a hair so maybe I'm being OCD. The gun seems to function fine and is in time. I don't suppose I'm in danger if the sideplate...
Just got a model 36 today. Don't know what the (-X) is but its a pinned barrel without recessed cylinders and is nickel plated.
It was pretty gunked up so I took off the side plate, cleaned out the gunk with rem-oil, dryed it out and then rubbed down each piece with clp. After reassembling it...
S&W cut the forcing cone larger on my 629 and left tool marks in the steel. It's on center though. S&W isn't very competent at building or servicing their own guns but at least they are liable if they can't preform the work or damage your gun.
Picked up my first AR-15 today. It's a S&W MP15 chambered for .223/5.56mm. There were a lot of choices but owning several S&W revolvers I at least know who I'm dealing with so I decided to go with them.
I'm currently in the process of breaking it down for an initial cleaning and have it in...
Biggest issue which may or may not effect function with current S&W revolvers it the barrel alignment. I've only seen a couple new Smiths in the last year that were not noticeably over/under-torqued.
Just got finished dissembling my 686. There is not obvious signs of wear or damage on the hand where it makes contact with the ratchet. There is some wear on the arm from where it is making contact with the frame however. Don't know if that means anything or not.
I don't know if there is anything to read into on this, but my model 19 (1973) and 629 (2013) both lock up immediately before the hammer drops. It's like a click-snap. My 686 locks up much earlier. It feels like it is locking up earlier in the trigger travel.
I finally found a thread on the Smith and Wesson forum with a similar problem on an older Model 10. Looks like if the cylinder/hand setup isn't quite right then the hand wears into the softer ratchet teeth.
The machining is normal for a new S&W. I will ask a gunsmith but from what I've seen...
handgungrips.com has some nice authentic looking grips with medallions. The pair for my 686 fit perfectly and I got some walnut ones for my 629 but it would seem they are overwhelmed at the moment as they are taking a really long time to get here.
Don't order from S&W. The pair I got for my...
I've put maybe 1500 rounds through my 686 and dry fired it an additional 1500 times. I was cleaning it today with a brush to get some carbon build up out of the frame window when I noticed the 'ratchet' teeth, for lack of the proper technical term, were damaged. I compared to my recently...
It's my understanding that the .410 shotgun is very weak and isn't very suitable for self defense. The ranges I've been to won't let you shoot shot. I've also heard complaints about the way the barrel is assembled on the governor and other lightweight S&W guns. The Taurus Raging Judge (.454...
They got me. It seem though after recieving my gun back and reading other threads over the last 7+ years - S&W is literally incapable of certain tasks. It would seem they are refusing to touch older pre-80s model guns for fear of damaging them.
It's difficult for me to fire a .44 in double action with any accuracy beyond 10 yards. I'm probably flinching a bit.
A .357 offers cheaper ammo - especially with .38 special ammo being so abundant and the recoil is much more manageable.
A .44 is powerful but is still weaker (muzzle energy)...
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