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So regular bluing would probably end up the same color at some point? If that's the case, maybe there's a way to speed up the aging process. The interesting thing is that my EuroArms, and pre-EuroArms A.S.P. N.M.A.s both have completely different coloration on the frame (But no other parts)...

I was hoping to see if anyone knew why, and how the frames on some older Armi San Paolo guns were finished so that they turned out a reddish, almost plum-maroon color. The reason? My New Model Army replica has a burr that never got removed, and needs a little cleaning up to give both the loading...

This seems pretty likely since it does seem to have the C.V.A. marking on the right side of the frame (Not super clear in the picture), but a Navy Arms-marked barrel. I do wonder who the manufacturer was for both parts, and how well they actually fit together. I'll count this as a mystery solved!

Is anyone familiar with what this is a replica of? It's listed as "CVA ARMI SAN MARCO HARTFORD MODEL BLACK POWDER REVOLVER", although the barrel says Navy Arms. Google doesn't bring up much using the listing name (Mostly Hartford Model SAAs), and while I might be missing one of the odd, less...

Navy Arms .44 Barrel GunBroker Listing

Navy Arms/CVA(?) .44 GunBroker Listing

Very nice! I think my 2 Dragoons could use that kind of treatment. After a good tune up, anyways. This might be a stupid question, but how, or is the bore protected during the rust bluing process, or does it get blued as well? Related, and also possibly a stupid question, does anyone know the...

This is generally my thinking on it, and I've had about the same experience with the 3 Open Tops I own. That said, I mostly buy factory ammo, shoot it, and then reload the brass with BP. With rounds like .45 Colt, or .38 Spl., there's no reason not to play around with different loads to see what...

I can't say I've seen them either, but I'll definitely keep my eye out. I'm always surprised by the things you see pop up on e-bay. I've used Tresos before with pretty good results, but I don't see any reason not to try some Slix nipples on this one. I've mostly used factory, or fairly similar...

Am I understanding correctly that that liquid in the end was kerosene? Either way, seems like a plan! I never thought to, but I might borrow a few pipettes from work since we do have a few 100 more than we need. Do you remember where you bought it from by any chance? If they're on-sale...

Will try both suggestions, probably in combo. with some heat to help loosen everything up. Hopefully, that will at least let me keep the better one as a spare, versus having to drill them both out. Thanks!

Anyone have $60,000 sitting around they don't need? :) Jokes aside, there aren't many things I want in life than my very own LeMat. One day.

Well, after destroying 1 nipple wrench, 1 knuckle, and my ego, I come to y'all again to ask for help. I have an old EuroArms (A.S.P.) New Model Army that I was hoping to get out to the range soon, but in checking it over, and trying to get the nipples off, I ran into removal issues with 2/6 of...

That's exactly what I needed! TotW (And Jedediah Starr) is always my go-to for this kind of thing, but not having the cone length, or the originals to measure, the huge selection kind of worked against me. Now I just need to replace the grips, but I have a better idea of how to work on those...

I recently came across a Lyman-imported 1860 Army clone with quite a bit of wear, but priced to reflect that, so I decided to take it on as a bit of a project. After looking it over, doing some research, and asking around, I've found that Lyman did have their 1860 replicas produced by Armi San...