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I'd recommend naval jelly as a chemical remover, or sandblasting as a mechanical remover. Your refinishing plans may dictate the method of removal....

I would add Kuhnhausen's Volume II, Hallock's .45 Auto Handbook, and Pistolsmithing by Nonte. Plenty of good info in all of those.

I'm staring at this extended ejector that I purchased in an effort to correct a "brass in the face" problem with a commander-length Kimber in .45 ACP. The "stock" ejector measured .78 in length. The extended ejector that I'm looking at is 1.298 in length. I'm thinking that's a bit too long to...

The following load data is straight from Oregon Trail (LaserCast): "Target" Load for NRA Bullseye 200 gr LSWC 3.6 grains Bullseye OAL: 1.250 Velocity: ~700 fps Like RC, I would recommend a lighter recoil spring. My 1911 likes a 13 lb recoil spring and a 19 lb mainspring with this...

I installed one a while back. It's not a drop-in, and will require fitting. Also, the overtravel adjustment is not a screw-type adjustment. You'll have to use a file. FWIW, I think it is an excellent trigger.

What firearm are we coating?

I hear ya, Ken. The one I'm looking at certainly doesn't seem to be the best quality, but I wouldn't mind knowing how to correct the issue its having. On your example, does the hammer completely contact the rear of the firing pin after pulling the trigger?

Hi folks, A coworker gave me his H. Schmidt Model 21S .22 revolver yesterday. It appears to be single action only. He said that he was experiencing a failure to fire on every fifth or sixth round and asked me to diagnose the problem. Well, I took a look at it and after dry firing several...

I would also recommend this: http://egw-guns.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_42&products_id=201 Has worked well in my guns. Lots of folks around here like the Wilson, too.

Seems like 1.210 is better suited to hollow points in that bullet weight. Sounds a tad short for a round nose. If 1.250 is working well for you, why the change to 1.210?

Anywhere from 7.0 to 7.5 has worked well for me with the 230 gr FMJ (Sierra) or LRN (Laser-Cast). I load them to 1.260 OAL and put a healthy crimp on them (in the neighborhood of .469). The 7.5's are a little warm, but I've found them to be quite accurate and they'll hit a gong at 50 yards with...

My .02, FWIW: Starting with quality parts the first time is going to make life a lot easier. "Grab bags" and other such parts are gonna be a crap shoot as far as fitting, especially if they are used parts; pins wear out, pin holes wear out, hammer hooks and sear noses wear down, too. No...

FWIW, I ordered a Lower Parts Kit from them about two weeks ago. Received it two days ago. Good turnaround on that order....... YMMV.

I'll give this a shot, here. If you're gonna tackle this, here's what you're looking at: First, you'll need to drift out the mainspring housing pin, located near the bottom of the MSH. I use either a 1/16 or 3/32 punch for this. Probably gonna have to remove the grips to accomplish this...

I have a P2000 in .40S&W. The magazine rattles a little when loaded, but I have to really listen to hear it. Never noticed it while carrying. You may want to try a different magazine and see if you get the same result. It could be that particular magazine...

thanks, chuck. I have some simichrome laying around, so I'll give that a go after coating. thanks, havoc. Will dial in for 55-65 psi. Again, thanks all for the help. Will report with the final results.

10-4 there, chuck. will go ahead and re-lap the fit after coating the rails. I used some 600 grit abrasive paste to lap the first time. think this will be okay to use to re-lap after the GunKote? By the way, any validity to this "tack-coating" stuff? I've read articles and posts on...

thanks, chuck. will go with the alox abrasive. I know you do a lot of finishing/refinishing. I have about .002 clearance between the rails, according to my feelers. Do you think GunKoting the rails will present a potential problem?

I am looking for a durable, utilitarian spray-on finish. I am leaning towards GunKote, and it seems that a thin finish would be preferable for this pistol. So, looks like I'm gonna need 120 grit alox or glass beads at 120 psi or above. Anything else I need to consider? Thanks for the...

hi y'all, getting ready to try my hand at a spray-on finish for my 1911, as it is currently devoid of any finish. after reading through some threads on here, it appears that I'm going to need to sandblast the parts prior to degreasing and spraying. I have two questions about sandblasting...