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I have hsed the ballistic calculator at handloads.com - to get you started I will estimate for you- use a BC of 0.29 and a sight height of 2.5"(Assuming AR) until you have the actual numbers. I'll leave muzzle velocity and altitude for you.

Hornady just released the 10th edition of their handbook.

CFE 223 is what I use to load the 62gr TSX - I get 3075fps from a 20" bbl (0.3gr under max), but the velocity falls way down to 2850 from my 16" bbl rifle. Also know that it is very temperature sensitive. That said, it is accurate and I do plan to use it as it really does improve velocity...

No experience with the MVP yet, but for youth I suggest the Flex Youth for it's shorter LOP and 1 pound lighter weight.

OKAY Surefeed 20's are the best to get- teflon or classic dry lube. Their design is like the 20's from the 1960's and therefore the best looking. Brownells are similar but use the feed lip and floorplate design from the 30 round mag. D&H is essentially a (curved) 30 chopped to 20- it's just...

Grandpa Jack is correct. The SCOTUS is now just an extension of the executive branch and can now create rule of law at will. If Hillary appoints the next justice they will define the militia as the National Guard and declare that personal firearm ownership deprives others of equal...

I prefer 1:7 so I can shoot long 70gr solid copper hunting bullets but the vast majority of what I shoot is 55gr M193. As far as magazines, all you mention are fine. For new aluminum buy D&H or Okay. Pmags are fine too.

As to why... If I were to break a spring or part in my lower, I have the knowledge to replace it myself having assembled the lower. That knowledge may be very valuable in the future.

After thououghly cleaning and inspecting the chamber i would see how it feels to cycle rounds by hand to see if the chamber / ammo combination is too tight. Then i would drop a loaded round of Greek ammo in a Wilson gauge and measure it with calipers. Then fire a round of that greek ammo thru...

To me guns have value based on their functional abilities and to a lesser extent, history. A Rem 870 selling for $300 is worth more to me than an $8,000 over-under. To me the older collectors who pay so much for antiques run a great risk as they are replaced by shooters my age and younger who...

I like my Bulgarian Makarov ($115 years ago) but I don't understand why people pay near the price of a new budget doublestack 9mm for a surplus single stack 9x18. I know history has some value, but to me there is not much history "value" in the Makarov. That said, it's an enjoyable pistol to...

When sighting in so close and using a calculator, you need to get the sight height correct. It magnifies downrange error if you enter bad data. Also in my opinion a 100 yard zero is the worst possible zero unless you ONLY shoot at 100. A more distant zero even if only 170 yards vastly...

M193 is what I use. But really anything EXCEPT varmint bullets would be fine by me. M855 is reasonable if you predict your adversary will be using cover (trees, etc).

A 100 yard zero for a hunting 308 is the worst possible choice in my opinion. That is the zero range which the bullet never rises above point of aim. A longer zero, even 150 yards, only elevates the bullet 0.6" above point of aim between 110-110 yds. This is beneficial because it also...

The short action gets to save space twice, once by adding 1/2 or 3/4 of rifling for the same barrel length, and again by subtracting that distance from the action.

I like the previous owner's idea best: Sell it for $1. I would not use it as I fear it may be the result of a ruptured barrel / overpressure which was "salvaged".

A lot of pistol makers have designed their "DAO" pistols to actually be at around "half cock" instead of hammer / striker fully forward. Kind of a hybrid between single action and DA/SA. It lets them get away with a much lighter trigger. Most polymer striker fired guns do this. Several...

The Chinese adapter I have just like the one pictured above works fine.

CMI mags are $20, so I wouldn't bother, but no I have not tried them. Not sure I would trust the small square hole in front and the locking lug in the back to not wear in time.

I just use ball bearing grease from an auto parts store.