SUCCESS....I took everyones advise and just went real slow...like over 3hours to file and stone the safety engagement until it was just right.
The sear to hammer engagement looked like this.
Thanks for everything...I have sure learned alot doing all this.
SUCCESS....I took everyones advise and just went real slow...like over 3hours to file and stone the safety engagement until it was just right.
The sear to hammer engagement looked like this.
Thanks for everything...I have sure learned alot doing all this.
You will want to get some legal assistance with regards to the legal entity part...IE: S Corp, Corp, LLC, sole propriertor etc. each have different regs and accounting issues as well as tax implications....one may be better than another for your state.
Most guys will get their FFL 01 and then...
"The fact that you are asking questions/seeking advice/input is good."
Well...thanks so much for your honest input....I'm old enough to know that if I'm gonna do this that it has to be right....no sense in doing it wrong and having an unsafe situation, or ruining a part.
If zero sear...
All good stuff...thanks to all who have replied.
I would agree that "zero" sear movement would be ideal, however, I have checked several very "tight" guns and have found nerry a one that had "zero" sear movement.
And frankly that would require an interference fit between the two...
Thanks guys...I'm gonna work the safety stub unitl it fits snug.....I don't want anymore that .005" of sear movement witht the safety on and squeezing the trigger.
I there folks....newbie here to this forum, not new to gun building.
I'm working on a do-it-yourself 1911 project right now. Taking a stock 1911A1 and cut in beavertail safety and adding ambi thumb safety.
I have also bought and Ed Brown hardcore hammer and STI - S7 sear. The thumb safety...
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