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great, my barrel is worth $50, that'll get me places...

what quality is my barrel then? Its on a savage .223 model 10 LE big free floating barrel

ok thanks for the info, i go through about 100 rds a week, but it never gets too hot to touch or anything It's prolly got a grand total of 1000 rds. through it... I just don't want to finally get my pet load and it sighted in then find out my barrel is going down the toilet and lose my groupings

Lets say a .223 barrel of a long bolt action... how many rounds?

So i think i'm going to try that audette ladder test (the one where you have one round for each powder charge) but i dont think i'll be able to see little .223 holes at 300 yds. At least not enough to remap them on a similar target. Should i just shoot at 200 yds? or is it critical to do it...

No im talking about brands like lapua or whatever its called and those brass manufacturers Is there any upside to having lapua over say.. remington or winchester?

Can match grade brass make a difference in anything? or does it just last longer?

Sorry about not clarifying... I have a Savage model 10 LE in .223.. It has a 22" free floating barrel. I use a bipod and rest the back end on a sandbag. Shots are at 100 yds. with very little wind. My cartridges are winchester brass 6th time reloaded, with 55gr. Nosler ballistic tip bullets...

ok, seems to make sense... I read the info that 1858 provided, and it seems like good info but my problem is that my loads that have a very close powder amount dont group like those around it, im not seeing any pattern.. Also that info 1858 supplied claimed that OAL doesn't matter.. First i've...

i ran a boresnake down the barrel every other set (6 rds per set) and walked to check and change the target so the gun had about 5 min to cool between every other set i did notice that my first shot after i let it cool and cleaned it was always the flyer of the group... Also i did the test...

My objective... To shoot large birds, varmints, and yotes out to long distances... yotes out to about 500 yds. and the rest in the 300 yd range. 19/32nds is just over a half inch, so thats not that bad right? This was all done at 100 yds with a bipod and scope

I went to the range and shot 15 sets of 6 rounds (.223) at different powder amounts. My first good grouping was 23/32nd of an inch at 24.4 gr. My Second good grouping was 19/32nd of an inch at 25 gr. (it was actually 5 rounds at 19/32nd of an inch because i pulled one out 2 inches to the right...

simple question, i just noticed after pulling a crimped bullet out of a case that it leaves a light, non-uniform, crease around the bullet... Think that can effect accuracy?

thanks so much

Good point, thanks everyone for the advice, just load some more with w748.. An overstocked reloading store in town got me a good deal (about 40% off) on a bottle of benchmark powder.. I've heard many people talk about this stuff, And has a max load on the bottle for a 55 gr. in .223 at...

if you have it, can you give me the details for .223 55gr. bullets with benchmark powder. Powder amount speeds and most accurate load

RCmodel... since the load you suggested isn't a max or even near it aren't you concerned the velocity and energy wont be anywhere near it's potential? Like it's completely underpowered?

Can't find any load data for the load i'm trying... I've im using 55 gr. Nosler ballistic tips and i have W748 and H4895 on hand... Anyone out there either use this stuff successfully or at least know of some good ideas about where to start... Could really use some help, I'm am just having...

Let's hear it... Your opinion on the most accurate 55 gr. bullet in a .223

I varmint hunt and would like to get a rangefinder. Anyone have any experience with these? I would like to know if there are some that are better for spotting little furry creatures out to 500 yds. I was looking at maybe a nikon prostaff 550