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1100 Buttstock Removal Tool?

Discussion in 'Shotguns' started by ArmedBear, Jun 6, 2006.

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  1. ArmedBear

    ArmedBear Member

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    Is there a low-cost alternative to the official buttstock removal tool for a Remington 1100/1187?

    I probably won't be changing my stock daily. That sucker's on pretty tight, though, and I don't want to ruin anything. But Brownell's wants $120 for the tool and bit; I'd prefer not to spend that on a glorified screwdriver.:)
     
  2. byf43

    byf43 Member

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    I don't quite follow. . . . .

    I recently removed the buttstock from a 1972 Remington 1100, for it's first time.

    Sitting on my workstool, I placed the buttstock and receiver between my legs (buttstock up) and used a long screwdriver that I had ground down ($4.00 el cheapo at the hardware store) and twisted the retainer right out.

    I found a screwdriver that had a wide blade and a long shank. About 10 minutes fitting it (w/a Dremel Tool) to make sure that it was 'hollow ground' and not booger up the head.
    Granted, it's not pretty, but, it did the deed.
     
  3. ArmedBear

    ArmedBear Member

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    I have a '71, and it seems awfully tight. I'll probably need more leverage than a screwdriver offers, but maybe not. I didn't have one with a really wide blade, so I didn't want to booger up the slot.

    How/why did you grind it down? To make a post to fit into the hole in the middle of the nut? Or just for thickness?

    Also, does it have Loc-Tite or something similar on it? Or is it just snug?

    In the past I've just "gone for it" and messed up screws on guns. Why they're any different from, say, car engines, I don't know, but it seems they are. So I figured I'd ask first. It seems like guns offer unique ways of botching things, versus other machines.:)
     
  4. hoghunting

    hoghunting Member

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    Armed,
    The screw should not have Loctite on the threads, it is probably just rust or dried oil. I have used a large screwdriver with a square shank instead of the round shank, and put a cresent wrench on the flats of the shank. Now you have your leverage. You will need a screwdriver with a long shank and a fairly large head.
     
  5. ArmedBear

    ArmedBear Member

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    Thanks!

    Knowing that you didn't destroy your gun, I con confidently do what you suggested (using brute force is my first instinct, but I have regretted it, so I thought I'd ask before doing the old screwdriver and wrench thing).

    If you have a vise grip, a big pipe wrench, and a screwdriver, you don't necessarily have three tools. You also have a single multi-purpose takedown tool.:D
     
  6. dfariswheel

    dfariswheel Member

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    One "watch-out".

    You have to be VERY careful to keep the screwdriver in the slot. If it slips sideways, you can easily splinter out the thin sides of the stock.

    One trick is to wrap a bunch of tape around the screwdriver just behind the actual bit to make it a close fit in the hole.
    The tape will prevent the bit from moving sideways out of the slot.
     
  7. ArmedBear

    ArmedBear Member

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    Thanks, again.

    The stock I'm removing was cut down all the way to the screw head (!), a long, long time ago. Someone apparently set up this gun for a kid, with that short stock. Looks professionally done, with a fitted spacer, pad and everything.

    It's hard for me to imagine that someone who needs a 12.5" LOP over the pad could possibly be comfortable with a 30" 12 Gauge 1100 Magnum! That could explain why it's in such good condition after 35 years.

    So I'm more concerned about damage when I'm putting on the replacement stock, matching vintage walnut I found on eBay. I'll tape up the screwdriver, or put a pipe over it or something.

    I love this forum!
     
  8. byf43

    byf43 Member

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    I ground the blade down to make it fit in the slot.
    The best way to describe it is to say that the sides of the retainer slot are parallel, something like this (as are other firearm's screwheads):

    I I


    The profile of a normal screwdriver is like this:

    \ /

    So, I ground the screwdriver bit (with the Dremel) to more closely fit the retainer slot, so that I wouldn't booger it up. (Even though the retainer is available from Remington for about $3.00)
     
  9. byf43

    byf43 Member

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    ArmedBear,

    I just remembered. . . .

    I read somewhere (I don't recall where) that someone used a 9/16" flat wood bit (woodboring/spade bit) and filed/ground the tip off of the end of it and that it fit the stock retainer 'nut' on the 1100.

    The shank of the bit is hexagonal, and you can put a small socket on the end of the bit and turn the retainer out with a ratchet or very small box-end wrench.

    I haven't tried it personally, but, it's another possibility. . . .
     
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