1862 Back from the Grave. (or getting thrown in the lake)

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Dang it again Dalton. I wish. But, my revolver battery is pretty complete, for me. The 1860 for .44 power, The crazy accurate Remington New Model Army in Navy Caliber which is both powerful with a slug, or small game capable with a lightly loaded ball, (and she's put meat on the table) and the Little Brat for lightweight, easy carry small game getting. And then of course I have a good selection of cartridge pistols to cover every other angle.

On the top of my want wish right now is a small caliber percussion rifle. I think I can manage that if I can sell a nice modern rifle I have, that I have never used other than shooting it off the bench. However, every time a gun show comes up in Idaho, I seem to miss it. Hear about it after the fact. I need to pay better attention.
 
@Jackrabbit1957 worked over my Uberti 1862 as a result of this thread. He returned it a few weeks ago, but today was the first time to get it to the range (Family trip, plus dealing with my Dad's cancer).

All went well. Able to keep all shots on a paper plate at 25 feet using 15 gr Triple-7 and a .380 ball. No cap jams whatsoever. Hosed it down with Ballistol before leaving the range, and gave it the hot water and Dawn treatment when I got home. This was a pretty rough revolver from Uberti, but our Jack Rabbit made it into a decent shooter. Much recommended.
 
That little brat sure gets around the block!

My 1862 also had the most superb accuracy

BUT....

Mucho cap jams due to blow back. Even with slix shot nipples.

My fix was to add a extra mainspring.
Now with two mainsprings she doesn't get cap jams.

But she is a might heavy when it comes to cocking.
 

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She's a beauty you got there for sure. I tried a double spring, but didn't seem to work. Didn't add much tension for me when the hammer was down. Didn't "kick in" until half cock. Then I got a '51 Navy mainspring and shortened it to fit. Got a better fit and a little more tension, but did not help. The cap-post made all the difference. And it seems to do more than just block the cap from blowing back. I have a theory that the cut in the hammer bleeds off a lot of the back pressure as the hammer does not seem to blow back at all now, best I can tell, and Jack had the same observation when he fired it, could not detect any blow back. And of course, the cap cannot blow back past the post anyhow. Yep I trust her now!
 
Ugly Sauce said:
She's a beauty you got there for sure. I tried a double spring, but didn't seem to work. Didn't add much tension for me when the hammer was down. Didn't "kick in" until half cock. Then I got a '51 Navy mainspring and shortened it to fit. Got a better fit and a little more tension, but did not help. The cap-post made all the difference. And it seems to do more than just block the cap from blowing back. I have a theory that the cut in the hammer bleeds off a lot of the back pressure as the hammer does not seem to blow back at all now, best I can tell, and Jack had the same observation when he fired it, could not detect any blow back. And of course, the cap cannot blow back past the post anyhow. Yep I trust her now![/QUOTE

I dont know what it is about the little pocket police but everyone ive seen has been a tack driver.
Click to expand...
 
Blackpowderwarrior said:
That little brat sure gets around the block!

My 1862 also had the most superb accuracy

BUT....

Mucho cap jams due to blow back. Even with slix shot nipples.

My fix was to add a extra mainspring.
Now with two mainsprings she doesn't get cap jams.

But she is a might heavy when it comes to cocking.
Click to expand...
Having 2 main springs will accelerate wear on the hammer and pivot screw. Things like an action shield and a cap post will help considerably. The hammer draw weight should begin around 4 pounds measured with a small fish scale or trigger pull gauge.
 
Jackrabbit1957 said:
Having 2 main springs will accelerate wear on the hammer and pivot screw. Things like an action shield and a cap post will help considerably. The hammer draw weight should begin around 4 pounds measured with a small fish scale or trigger pull gauge.
Click to expand...

Id like to run something by you brother.

I have a few ASM hammers that someone has dry fired to death and thus they have indentations and much distress to the part of the hammer that strikes the nipples.

I was thinking of drilling a recess straight into that area and fitting a stainless steel screw flush within that area to fix the surface.

Also cutting a notch into said screw so hammer could still be used on safety pins.

This is all hypothetical pondering on my behalf.

Ive got quite a few replacement hammers I ordered from deer creek and have already put them on the guns that needed them.

But this would be a great learning experience for me, so if/when the day comes that no replacement hammers can be found I could at least fix the one I have.
 
Blackpowderwarrior said:
I was thinking of drilling a recess straight into that area and fitting a stainless steel screw flush within that area to fix the surface.
Click to expand...

One could just press in some round stock/rod instead of threading it for a screw, and file it flush with the surface. ? Or have a good welder just hit the surface gently with the TIG, (or MIG or JIG or FIG or whatever) and file it flat. ?
 
Jackrabbit1957 said:
Things like an action shield and a cap post will help considerably.
Click to expand...

For sure a better alternative to overly heavy mainsprings, and certainly help way beyond considerably. !!!! That, is putting it lightly!!! I went the heavy/double mainspring route, without much success. The cap post alone, total success. Action shield....BONUS! (I used to be most dubious about action shields...now I am a believer)
 
Ugly Sauce said:
One could just press in some round stock/rod instead of threading it for a screw, and file it flush with the surface. ? Or have a good welder just hit the surface gently with the TIG, (or MIG or JIG or FIG or whatever) and file it flat. ?
Click to expand...

Thats a great idea also. I'm all for fixes we can do at home with what we have.

A old timer gave me some of The best advice I ever got about these old guns...it was this... Son, use what you have, your over thinking it! Lol
 
Blackpowderwarrior said:
Id like to run something by you brother.

I have a few ASM hammers that someone has dry fired to death and thus they have indentations and much distress to the part of the hammer that strikes the nipples.

I was thinking of drilling a recess straight into that area and fitting a stainless steel screw flush within that area to fix the surface.

Also cutting a notch into said screw so hammer could still be used on safety pins.

This is all hypothetical pondering on my behalf.

Ive got quite a few replacement hammers I ordered from deer creek and have already put them on the guns that needed them.

But this would be a great learning experience for me, so if/when the day comes that no replacement hammers can be found I could at least fix the one I have.
Click to expand...
I recently did that repair on a hammer that just wouldn't reach the caps. A 6/32 tapped hole in the hammer, a button head screw with loctite and some filing, job took all of 20 minutes.
 
Blackpowderwarrior said:
I have a few ASM hammers that someone has dry fired to death and thus they have indentations and much distress to the part of the hammer that strikes the nipples.
Click to expand...

A high round count will eventually cause the hammer face to look like it's been dry fired. My 1860 DGG hammer got like that, but I was able to just "face it off" with a file. If the amount I took off had any effect of timing I never noticed, plus my replacement cones were longer anyhow, and once it went to Jack all timing issues were corrected.
 
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