Good put--very good indeed.
The value of that post extends far beyond this thread--perhaps it should be posted in Blackpowder.
1873 SAA which caliber would you guys get ?
- Thread starter candymancan
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The value of that post extends far beyond this thread--perhaps it should be posted in Blackpowder.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
I can assure you that during the summer months here in the Land of the Pilgrims we have 90% humidity days for weeks on end.
I stand by everything I said regarding how corrosive Black Powder is.
Coating BP fouling with oil WILL prevent it from absorbing any atmospheric moisture, and WILL prevent corrosion to steel.
I have been doing it for 20 years now, I do know what I am talking about.
45 Dragoon
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Which is why "packing the frame"/with Mobil1 works. Just because it may look dirty in a year or two, it just means it's doing its job!! It continuesly migrates through the frame as you cycle the action.
Mike
Mike
GeoDudeFlorida
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- Dec 1, 2020
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- 11,000
Well given I have no idea where the land of the Pilgrims is - guessing Plymouth, Mass? - and given the tremendous bank of knowledge you have, I have no choice but to believe what you do works for you. I will point out, “Coating BP fouling with oil,” isn’t the same as doing nothing or just leaving the guns as was implied previous. In my own defense, I simply pointed out that leaving dirty BP guns untouched, as was implied, “I have often gone over a week before cleaning my guns after shooting them with Black Powder,” will gather humidity and that’s what causes rust. I will also rely on basic chemistry to point out that being hygroscopic is what makes black powder residue corrosive. Sorry to have offended. It was not intentional.
.38 Special
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I have a stainless Vaquero, prepped by Long Hunter's, which has come to be my "dedicated" blackpowder cartridge gun. I also am very lazy about cleaning in general. I mostly just hose the gun down with Ballistol and water ("moose milk"), scrub it with a toothbrush, brush and patch the chambers and bore, and then wipe it down. Occasionally, if the gun is filthy from lots of shooting, I'll just dunk the whole thing in hot moose milk and let it soak for a bit before scrubbing it and then blowing it out with compressed air. In some ways, it's actually easier than cleaning a smokeless revolver with modern solvents.
As for the brass, I usually use nickel. Like many bp shooters, I soak the brass in soapy water prior to tumbling in corn cob or walnut shell, after which it looks no different from brass used with smokeless.
As for the brass, I usually use nickel. Like many bp shooters, I soak the brass in soapy water prior to tumbling in corn cob or walnut shell, after which it looks no different from brass used with smokeless.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
OK, let me try this one more time.
First, I determine that a revolver (or rifle, or shotgun) will only be fired with ammunition loaded with Black Powder.
I then take it completely apart, like this Colt.
Or I take it mostly apart, like this antique S&W Top Break New Model Number Three.
The mechanism of a Winchester Model 1873 is easily accessed by removing the side plates.
My old Stevens SXS hammer gun is also easy to take down, one screw and both side plates come off, exposing the mechanism.
Then, everything; inside of the frame, mechanism parts, inside the cylinder, everything, gets thoroughly degreased with alcohol.
Next I liberally coat everything with Ballistol. Everything. I slop on a nice heavy coat.
At this point the firearm is ready to be fired with ammunition loaded with Black Powder.
All my metallic ammo is loaded with Schuetzen FFg. I like Schuetzen because it burns a little bit cleaner than Goex for about the same price.
Here is a photo of the actual components that go into one of my 45 Colt rounds. A Big Lube 250 grain bullet, about 33 grains of Schuetzen FFg, Starline brass, and Federal Large Pistol primers.
Here is the selection of Big Lube bullets I use. Left to right, the 180 grain bullet for 38-40, 200 grain Mav-Dutchman for 44-40 and 44 Russian, 200 grain J/P 200 (I designed this one) for 45 Schofield, and the 250 grain PRS for 45 Colt. The large bullet shown is not a Big Lube bullet, it is a 405 grain Montana Precison Swaging bullet I use for 45-70. The bullet all the way on the right is one of my old pan lubed bullets I used to use for 45 Colt. Why the Big Lube bullets? Because the huge lube groove holds enough soft BP compatible bullet lube to keep even a 24 inch rifle barrel coated with soft, BP compatible bullet lube.
Here is a photo of my completed Black Powder rounds. Left to right, 44 Russian, 45 Schofield, 38-40, 44-40, 45 Colt, and 45-70.
I actually load all my 'pistol caliber' metallic cartridges on a Hornady Lock and Load AP progressive press. This is a batch of 45 Colt being loaded.
I load my shotgun shells with 4.3 CCs (about 65 grains) of Scheutzen FFg, a Circle Fly over powder wad, a Circle Fly cushion wad, 1 1/8 ounces of #8 shot, a Circle Fly over shot card, all stuffed into a 12 gauge Remington STS hull.
I load all my BP shotgun shells on my old MEC Jr.
I use a 24" drop tube to trickle 70 grains of Schuetzen FFg into my 45-70 shells. The Colt is only in the photo to give a sense of scale.
I finish loading my 45-70 cartridges on my old Lyman Spartan single stage press.
After a day of shooting CAS I am too tired to clean two revolvers, a rifle and a shotgun. They go directly into the safe with absolutely no further cleaning. No squirt of Moose Milk down the bore, no squirt of Ballistol anywhere.
Directly into the safe without any further cleaning.
I try to clean them within a week, but like I said before, I have gone much, much longer than a week without cleaning them.
Yes, you got the state correct, although you did not get the town right. It does not matter, we have plenty of 90% humidity days all summer long.
When I clean my guns, I use my favorite water based Black Powder solvent. It is called Murphy's Mix. Murphy's Mix consists of equal parts Murphy's Oil Soap (hence the name), rubbing alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, it does not matter, and drug store Hydrogen Per Oxide. The 3 quart jug is what I mix them together in.
This is when all the red flags will go up. I can hear them now. Why not just use hot water, it was good enough during the Civil War? Several reasons. When Murphy's Mix dries, it leaves behind an oily residue from the oil soap. This is what I am talking about when I say that BP fouling saturated with oil cannot absorb any more water from the atmosphere. The oily residue saturates any specs of fouling that may have been left behind and prevents it from absorbing any atmospheric moisture. The alcohol aids in drying quickly, and the H2O2 provides a little bit of fizz to help lift stubborn fouling off the parts. Also, this stuff can be used at room temperature. It can be used at the club before I leave, or it can be used cold in the basement a week later. Does not need heating. Hot water requires heating. Last, let's not worry about the fact that the Nazis used Hydrogen Per Oxide as rocket propellant in the V2 rockets in WWII. Drug store H2O2 is only about 3% H2O2, the rest is water. Once diluted with the other two ingredients the percentage goes down to about 1%. 1% H2O2 is not going to rust anything, many years ago I left a piece of carbon steel soaking in Murphy's Mix for about a week. There was no corrosion. In fact, most of Murphy's Mix is actually water, about 20% of the alcohol and about 97% of the H2O2. It is the water that does the actual cleaning, the other stuff just helps and leaves behind a coating of oil.
Cleaning a cartridge revolver is very simple. A bore brush soaked with M Mix is twirled down the bore and all of the chambers of the cylinder. Done a couple of times to wash away all the fouling. Followed up by a patch soaked in M Mix down the bore and chambers to mop up anything that is left. Then a patch soaked in Ballistol goes down the bore and chambers, followed by a dry patch to soak up the excess. This is what I am talking about when I say that any fouling left in a pitted bore will be soaked with oil so it cannot absorb any moisture out of the air. Then, a couple of Q-Tips soaked in Ballistol are worked into the hole in the frame where the hand pokes through, and some more is squirted down near the hammer. This renews the Ballistol I left inside when I reassembled the revolver in the first place. Fianlly, a light wipe of Ballistol on the outside of the frame and cylinder, to keep that pesky atmospheric moisture away.
A rifle is easier. Black Powder 44-40 seals the bore of a rifle so well that hardly any fouling works its way into the mechanism. A spent cartridge is inserted into the chamber and the action is closed. Holding the rifle vertically, a bore brush soaked with M Mix goes down the bore, followed by a few patches soaked in M Mix. When a patch comes out dirty gray without any crusty fouling on it, the fouling has all been washed into the spent shell in the chamber. The rifle is flipped upside down and the empty brass is ejected onto the ground followed by a spray of dirty solvent. The same treatment of a patch soaked in Ballistol down the bore followed by a dry one to mop up the excess, This leaves that nice coating of oil on any fouling that may remain in the pits of an old rifle. A little bit of wiping on the exposed parts of the action; the bolt, the carrier, and anywhere else I can reach, followed by a Q-Tip of Ballistol squirted down inside the action to renew the old Ballistol inside.
The shotgun is messy, so many times I don't clean it at all. When I do clean the shotgun, it involves lots of paper towels and hot water. This gets real messy, so I don't like to do it very often. When done, everything gets some Ballistol to prevent atmospheric moisture from causing any corrosion on what ever tiny amounts of fouling may remain in the old, pitted bore.
That's it. Absolutely no cleaning or preparation done on even the hottest, most humid days of the summer. Everything goes into the safe dirty. I know there are those of you who still have a drill sergeant whispering in your ear that no gun should ever be put away dirty. I stopped listening to him a long time ago. He was just trying to keep you busy.
First, I determine that a revolver (or rifle, or shotgun) will only be fired with ammunition loaded with Black Powder.
I then take it completely apart, like this Colt.
Or I take it mostly apart, like this antique S&W Top Break New Model Number Three.
The mechanism of a Winchester Model 1873 is easily accessed by removing the side plates.
My old Stevens SXS hammer gun is also easy to take down, one screw and both side plates come off, exposing the mechanism.
Then, everything; inside of the frame, mechanism parts, inside the cylinder, everything, gets thoroughly degreased with alcohol.
Next I liberally coat everything with Ballistol. Everything. I slop on a nice heavy coat.
At this point the firearm is ready to be fired with ammunition loaded with Black Powder.
All my metallic ammo is loaded with Schuetzen FFg. I like Schuetzen because it burns a little bit cleaner than Goex for about the same price.
Here is a photo of the actual components that go into one of my 45 Colt rounds. A Big Lube 250 grain bullet, about 33 grains of Schuetzen FFg, Starline brass, and Federal Large Pistol primers.
Here is the selection of Big Lube bullets I use. Left to right, the 180 grain bullet for 38-40, 200 grain Mav-Dutchman for 44-40 and 44 Russian, 200 grain J/P 200 (I designed this one) for 45 Schofield, and the 250 grain PRS for 45 Colt. The large bullet shown is not a Big Lube bullet, it is a 405 grain Montana Precison Swaging bullet I use for 45-70. The bullet all the way on the right is one of my old pan lubed bullets I used to use for 45 Colt. Why the Big Lube bullets? Because the huge lube groove holds enough soft BP compatible bullet lube to keep even a 24 inch rifle barrel coated with soft, BP compatible bullet lube.
Here is a photo of my completed Black Powder rounds. Left to right, 44 Russian, 45 Schofield, 38-40, 44-40, 45 Colt, and 45-70.
I actually load all my 'pistol caliber' metallic cartridges on a Hornady Lock and Load AP progressive press. This is a batch of 45 Colt being loaded.
I load my shotgun shells with 4.3 CCs (about 65 grains) of Scheutzen FFg, a Circle Fly over powder wad, a Circle Fly cushion wad, 1 1/8 ounces of #8 shot, a Circle Fly over shot card, all stuffed into a 12 gauge Remington STS hull.
I load all my BP shotgun shells on my old MEC Jr.
I use a 24" drop tube to trickle 70 grains of Schuetzen FFg into my 45-70 shells. The Colt is only in the photo to give a sense of scale.
I finish loading my 45-70 cartridges on my old Lyman Spartan single stage press.
After a day of shooting CAS I am too tired to clean two revolvers, a rifle and a shotgun. They go directly into the safe with absolutely no further cleaning. No squirt of Moose Milk down the bore, no squirt of Ballistol anywhere.
Directly into the safe without any further cleaning.
I try to clean them within a week, but like I said before, I have gone much, much longer than a week without cleaning them.
Yes, you got the state correct, although you did not get the town right. It does not matter, we have plenty of 90% humidity days all summer long.
When I clean my guns, I use my favorite water based Black Powder solvent. It is called Murphy's Mix. Murphy's Mix consists of equal parts Murphy's Oil Soap (hence the name), rubbing alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, it does not matter, and drug store Hydrogen Per Oxide. The 3 quart jug is what I mix them together in.
This is when all the red flags will go up. I can hear them now. Why not just use hot water, it was good enough during the Civil War? Several reasons. When Murphy's Mix dries, it leaves behind an oily residue from the oil soap. This is what I am talking about when I say that BP fouling saturated with oil cannot absorb any more water from the atmosphere. The oily residue saturates any specs of fouling that may have been left behind and prevents it from absorbing any atmospheric moisture. The alcohol aids in drying quickly, and the H2O2 provides a little bit of fizz to help lift stubborn fouling off the parts. Also, this stuff can be used at room temperature. It can be used at the club before I leave, or it can be used cold in the basement a week later. Does not need heating. Hot water requires heating. Last, let's not worry about the fact that the Nazis used Hydrogen Per Oxide as rocket propellant in the V2 rockets in WWII. Drug store H2O2 is only about 3% H2O2, the rest is water. Once diluted with the other two ingredients the percentage goes down to about 1%. 1% H2O2 is not going to rust anything, many years ago I left a piece of carbon steel soaking in Murphy's Mix for about a week. There was no corrosion. In fact, most of Murphy's Mix is actually water, about 20% of the alcohol and about 97% of the H2O2. It is the water that does the actual cleaning, the other stuff just helps and leaves behind a coating of oil.
Cleaning a cartridge revolver is very simple. A bore brush soaked with M Mix is twirled down the bore and all of the chambers of the cylinder. Done a couple of times to wash away all the fouling. Followed up by a patch soaked in M Mix down the bore and chambers to mop up anything that is left. Then a patch soaked in Ballistol goes down the bore and chambers, followed by a dry patch to soak up the excess. This is what I am talking about when I say that any fouling left in a pitted bore will be soaked with oil so it cannot absorb any moisture out of the air. Then, a couple of Q-Tips soaked in Ballistol are worked into the hole in the frame where the hand pokes through, and some more is squirted down near the hammer. This renews the Ballistol I left inside when I reassembled the revolver in the first place. Fianlly, a light wipe of Ballistol on the outside of the frame and cylinder, to keep that pesky atmospheric moisture away.
A rifle is easier. Black Powder 44-40 seals the bore of a rifle so well that hardly any fouling works its way into the mechanism. A spent cartridge is inserted into the chamber and the action is closed. Holding the rifle vertically, a bore brush soaked with M Mix goes down the bore, followed by a few patches soaked in M Mix. When a patch comes out dirty gray without any crusty fouling on it, the fouling has all been washed into the spent shell in the chamber. The rifle is flipped upside down and the empty brass is ejected onto the ground followed by a spray of dirty solvent. The same treatment of a patch soaked in Ballistol down the bore followed by a dry one to mop up the excess, This leaves that nice coating of oil on any fouling that may remain in the pits of an old rifle. A little bit of wiping on the exposed parts of the action; the bolt, the carrier, and anywhere else I can reach, followed by a Q-Tip of Ballistol squirted down inside the action to renew the old Ballistol inside.
The shotgun is messy, so many times I don't clean it at all. When I do clean the shotgun, it involves lots of paper towels and hot water. This gets real messy, so I don't like to do it very often. When done, everything gets some Ballistol to prevent atmospheric moisture from causing any corrosion on what ever tiny amounts of fouling may remain in the old, pitted bore.
That's it. Absolutely no cleaning or preparation done on even the hottest, most humid days of the summer. Everything goes into the safe dirty. I know there are those of you who still have a drill sergeant whispering in your ear that no gun should ever be put away dirty. I stopped listening to him a long time ago. He was just trying to keep you busy.
Last edited:
GeoDudeFlorida
Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2020
- Messages
- 11,000
Okey dokey. Massachusetts is more humid than the tropics. Got it.
Miguel Loco
Member
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2019
- Messages
- 245
Driftwood Johnson...... that's the best thing I've read all day. I've been shooting BP for years....and have been using pretty much exactly your regimen. I enjoy taking these old firearms apart after shooting.....so I just do it every time. It's easy and I know it's done right.
Fortunately I live in the desert.....near Tombstone, AZ and humidity is only an issue a few months a year. Even so..... I take care of them as soon as I can after shooting.
Fortunately I live in the desert.....near Tombstone, AZ and humidity is only an issue a few months a year. Even so..... I take care of them as soon as I can after shooting.
Dave Markowitz
Member
Actually, I ordered a new Cimarron/Uberti Model P with an Old Model frame in .44-40 with a 5.5" barrel from a seller on Gunbroker today. Several sellers list the same model.
NeroM
Member
Driftwood:
In post #81 above, you show components for 45 Colt with BP.
My loading is similar, with approx 32 yr FFFg and a thin over powder wad.
Do you use an over powder wad in revolver loads ?
Tx !
Ps, I clean up with moose milk - sometimes a day or two after shooting - not a problem with BP.
In post #81 above, you show components for 45 Colt with BP.
My loading is similar, with approx 32 yr FFFg and a thin over powder wad.
Do you use an over powder wad in revolver loads ?
Tx !
Ps, I clean up with moose milk - sometimes a day or two after shooting - not a problem with BP.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
No.
I stopped putting wads or lube cookies or anything else into a Black Powder cartridge years ago. I just pour in the powder and seat and crimp the bullet. After sizing and seating a primer of course.
The reasons folks put a wad between powder and bullet are two fold.
To keep any lube from adulterating the powder, and to keep the base of the bullet from being deformed when the powder is compressed.
My tests years ago showed that there is no loss of accuracy from a 44-40 round fired from a rifle if there is no wad between powder and bullet.
I also concluded that I am not getting any lube sneaking past the base of the bullet and adulterating the powder. If a tiny bit of lube is getting by, it does not seem to make any difference.
Been doing it this way for almost 20 years. Adding a wad between powder and bullet is one more step, and I have found it to be unnecessary.
My long range precision 45-70 loads are a different story, but not for revolver cartridges.
NeroM
Member
My tests years ago showed that there is no loss of accuracy from a 44-40 round fired from a rifle if there is no wad between powder and bullet. Been doing it this way for almost 20 years. Adding a wad between powder and bullet is one more step said:
375supermag
Member
Hi...
When I decided to gather up some SAA clones for shooting, my first choice in caliber was .45Colt because I already had a pair of original Vaqueros and a BlackHawk in .45Colt.
I bought a Cattleman in nickel with the blue nitrate screws and faux ivory grips...very nice revolver.
My next SAA clone was a Cimarron black powder frame chambered in .44Special with the case hardened frame. I was already set up to reload that caliber as well since I had a couple of flat top BlackHawks in .44Special.
Since then I have acquired a 1875 Remington clone and a Schofield clone, both in .45Colt.
Meanwhile my son purchased a Taylor's SAA clone in .357Magnum, so we have that caliber covered as well.
Not a lot of interest in shooting black powder at this point in time but I never say never because there is no telling when I might decide I need a Colt Walker or Dragoon added to my collection.
When I decided to gather up some SAA clones for shooting, my first choice in caliber was .45Colt because I already had a pair of original Vaqueros and a BlackHawk in .45Colt.
I bought a Cattleman in nickel with the blue nitrate screws and faux ivory grips...very nice revolver.
My next SAA clone was a Cimarron black powder frame chambered in .44Special with the case hardened frame. I was already set up to reload that caliber as well since I had a couple of flat top BlackHawks in .44Special.
Since then I have acquired a 1875 Remington clone and a Schofield clone, both in .45Colt.
Meanwhile my son purchased a Taylor's SAA clone in .357Magnum, so we have that caliber covered as well.
Not a lot of interest in shooting black powder at this point in time but I never say never because there is no telling when I might decide I need a Colt Walker or Dragoon added to my collection.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
For me, even though I love my .38 and .22LR USFA's, the SAA should be a big bore. That is a .38WCF or bigger. In my opinion, the .44Special is the perfect cartridge for the platform. It is the perfect balance of power and efficiency. People love the .45Colt but it's a lot of wasted case capacity, unless you're shooting blackpowder and there is a slew of issues associated with it.
Pair of Cimarron .44Spl's.
Pair of Cimarron .44Spl's.
Dave Markowitz
Member
FWIW...
I load up 2 kinds of black powder rounds in .44 WCF.
1. Full power loads use 2.2cc (~35 grains) of 2Fg or 3Fg under an Accurate Molds 43-215C bullet.
2. .44 Henry Flat equivalents with the same bullet but 1.9cc (~28 grains) of BP and a 1/8" thick nitro card, to take up air space. When I first did the Henry-equivalents I used 0.5cc of cornmeal.
The Henry-equivalents are mainly to shoot in my Cimarron 1860 Henry or a revolver. They kick noticeably less in the wheelgun than full power loads. Adding the nitro card adds another step but I use a Lee turret press as a single stage press so it doesn't add more than a few minutes to a box of ammo.
Ditto on using moose milk for cleanup. I've been shooting BP guns since the 1970s and it's come to be my favorite. Either Ballistol and water, or water-soluble machinist's oil and water. The latter has the advantage the the machinist's oil doesn't stink like licorice coated in toe jam.
I have seven single action revolvers. Six of them are chambered for the 45 Colt cartridge. The remaining one is a 38 Special, and I don't shoot it very much. The vast majority of my 45 Colt rounds are loaded with black powder. I don't completely dis-assemble them every time but like Driftwood I use Ballistol all over the insides. And, I just use tap water with a dribble of Simple Green.
YMMV,
Dave
YMMV,
Dave
NeroM
Member
Isn't there a certain ambience in the aroma of "licorice coated toe jam" ?
Driftwood Johnson
Member
I buy powder from Maine Powder House.
I generally buy Schuetzen FFg, which is made in Germany.
Jim Watson
Member
My only use of BP is for BPCR silhouette and target in a single shot rifle.
I started with a .38-55 and went to .40-65 because the .38 would not reliably knock down a 46 lb ram at 500 meters.
I started out cleaning with the Venturino Solution - Windex All Surface with Vinegar, diluted 1:1.
When that was out of stock at Walmart, I just diluted some of the M-Pro 7 that I was using on smokeless. It is a detergent, not an oily "solvent" and works well.
Scrub, patch, oil with Ballistol or whatever is handy.
Oh, to the OQ. I would (did!) get SAAs in a large caliber. I bought .44s, a .44 Special with fitted .44-40 cylinder and a factory .44-40 to go with my Winchester.
Smaller caliber SAAs are a good bit heavier and poorly balanced to my taste.
I even had a .38-44 New Model No 3 Target but while it was a Neat Gun, it did not have the balance of a .44 Russian.
I started with a .38-55 and went to .40-65 because the .38 would not reliably knock down a 46 lb ram at 500 meters.
I started out cleaning with the Venturino Solution - Windex All Surface with Vinegar, diluted 1:1.
When that was out of stock at Walmart, I just diluted some of the M-Pro 7 that I was using on smokeless. It is a detergent, not an oily "solvent" and works well.
Scrub, patch, oil with Ballistol or whatever is handy.
Oh, to the OQ. I would (did!) get SAAs in a large caliber. I bought .44s, a .44 Special with fitted .44-40 cylinder and a factory .44-40 to go with my Winchester.
Smaller caliber SAAs are a good bit heavier and poorly balanced to my taste.
I even had a .38-44 New Model No 3 Target but while it was a Neat Gun, it did not have the balance of a .44 Russian.
GeoDudeFlorida
Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2020
- Messages
- 11,000
I've got enough Fg, FFg, and FFFg set aside to last a lifetime, plus plenty of Pyrodex and 777 2F if thatr ever runs out. If you don't, go get it NOW. The place @Driftwood Johnson mentioned, Maine Powder House, has most of the grinds of Schuetzen, Swiss and Goex in stock but limited supplies and Schuetzen FFg is now on backorder.
Don't forget to check your local laws for restrictions on how much and what types of BP you are allowed to have/store. You really don't want to have your house confiscated and yourself charged with a felony you can't fight in court over a few measly pounds of powder.
Dave Markowitz
Member
On September 29th, Scheutzen posted on their Facebook page, "...we have a large shipment inbound and should be available within the next 4-5 weeks with more inbound."
They also posted: "We have been talking with the Factory and they are confident in their abilities to meet black powder demand in North America. It will take some time to work out logistics but with hard work, and patience from our customers, everything will work out fine."
We are not out of the woods yet but BP is on the way. What I always suggest to shooters is to stock up when availability is good, because gun and ammo availability is cyclical and subject to the whims of politicians and the fickle public. When availability is good, lay in a supply to get you through the lean times.
GeoDudeFlorida
Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2020
- Messages
- 11,000
. That’s good news!
The time to stockpile was last week.
- Status
