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1907 Winchester- recoil spring is a SOB

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by chestnut ridge, Nov 7, 2006.

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  1. chestnut ridge

    chestnut ridge Member

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    Location:
    south central Tennessee
    I had to take my 351 WSL Winchester model 1907 apart to replace
    a firing pin. I am having trouble getting the 18" recoil spring back into
    it's 4" home. Anyone ever worked on one of these?
     
  2. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner Moderator Emeritus

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    re:

    Not. It's a spring. The guy who designed it is the SOB.:D

    Sorry. Never worked on one of those, but I'll wager that Jim Keenan can give ya a few pointers. If it goes bang, it's a pretty good bet that he's been in it.
     
  3. charger

    charger Member

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    Well heres good news and bad. I did mine a few times for various reasons. I picked up little techniques(more like ways to hold my tongue) I do remember one thing. Forget about the bench. Get down on the floor and make love to it cause it wants you to have a thousand fingers everywhere at once..When its flat on the floor I found it better to buckle it so as the front and back were correct and the middle scrunched up.then I was able to start the rod in the front and wiggle the spring over the rod coil by coin....Geez, I wonder why they quit makin them little honeys:rolleyes:
     
  4. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner Moderator Emeritus

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    Springs

    Sounds a bit like the action spring in the FN-FAL. Whew!
     
  5. Jim K

    Jim K Member

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    Sorry to have to disillusion my fans, but I can remember having only one of those apart and it was a long time ago. I will try to share some very dim memories.

    NOTE: Use these ideas at your own risk. I can't be responsible for any injury to a person following them, or to the gun.

    With that said, I THINK it works like this. Drill a 1/16" hole through the guide about 1/2 inch in from the threads. Then, put the guide rod in from the front, so about 1/2 inch protrudes into the inside of the bolt. Push one end of the spring over the protruding guide and insert a suitable size pin into the hole you drilled, capturing one or two coils of the spring. The pin should be just long enough to catch the spring on both ends, but not long enough to keep the guide rod from turning. Now screw the guide rod into the spring by turning the rod with padded pliers. You might have to use a screwdriver to help compress the spring when you get about half way. When you get the spring on, use padded pliers on the front of the rod to pull the rod forward, then clamp it with padded lock pliers

    Now, clamp the barrelled action in the vise with the barrel pointing upward. Set the buffers on the receiver. Insert the bolt, grab the rod again with pliers, and release the lock pliers. Make sure the threaded end of the rod goes through the buffers. Pull the bolt back (down) and using the padded pliers, screw the guide into the receiver.

    I hope this helps, but scope it out before drilling that hole. As I say, it has been a long time (like 35 years) since I had one of those down. FWIW, the NRA disassembly book says the assembly can only be done with factory tools.

    You might also make screwing the rod in a bit easier by cutting a slot in the outer end with a Dremel tool so you can use a screwdriver.

    Jim
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2006
  6. chestnut ridge

    chestnut ridge Member

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    Location:
    south central Tennessee
    Thanks very much. I am going to try that technique; when my replacement
    spring arrives from Gun Parts. The original spring slipped under compression
    and shot out into the wasteland of my shop. It has hidden itself well.
    I need a better curse word vocabulary to work on this rifle.
     
  7. Jim K

    Jim K Member

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    Wow! I thought I was bad for losing parts, but losing something the size of that spring takes a guy with a Doctorate degree in losing stuff!

    Jim
     
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