1911 Assembly Without Tools: Plunger Tube Assembly?

[twofewscrews]

I can breakdown and assemble the 1911 without the use of any tool except for the plunger tube assembly . . . What's the trick?

What do you use to compress this piece so that you can fully insert either the slide stop or thumb safety?


Right now I've been using an old ID to wedge between the plunger tube assembly and the thumb saftey (or slide stop) and I think technically that counts as a tool.

Edited for clarity

 

[UncleEd]

What?

Might need to explain further.

You trying to remove spring with slide release and safety plungers?

 

[twofewscrews]

What?

Might need to explain further.

You trying to remove spring with slide release and safety plungers?

What do you use to compress this piece to fit either the slide stop or thumb saftey into place?

I can take it apart without any tool, but I need something compressed this part in order to put it back together.

 

[Boom Vang]

Some terminology mixups here. The "plunger tube" is the actual tube that the parts in the pic you posted fit inside. That tube is factory assembled and not designed for either field stripping or detail disassembly.

The pic you posted is actually three parts that are designed to be removed as a single unit, usually referred to as the "plunger spring assembly". It consists of the "slide stop plunger", "plunger spring" and "safety lock plunger". The opposite ends of the plungers snap into the ends of the spring.

Now with that out of the way...

Re-inserting the the slide stop is fairly simple as long as that part is not incorrectly machined, as is sometimes the case, especially with aftermarket items. The beveled lobe on the slide stop is designed to depress the plunger as you apply pressure to the slide stop. Some custom makers add a small cut in the lobe to aid that process.

The thumb safety (safety lock) is more of a tough one, since there is no beveled edge on that part to help depress the safety plunger. I usually use whatever thin rigid item is handy to depress the plunger, and have a polymer tool is use for that. The modern "credit card" also works very well, as you have seen.

If reassembling without any tools, the sear spring can be used to depress the safety plunger. Keep in mind that the tool-less disassembly/reassembly feature of the 1911 wasn't meant to be pretty, or to maintain a pristine appearance of the pistol. It was designed for military field use.

 

[twofewscrews]

The pic you posted is actually three parts that are designed to be removed as a single unit, usually referred to as the "plunger spring assembly". It consists of the "slide stop plunger", "plunger spring" and "safety lock plunger". The opposite ends of the plungers snap into the ends of the

Wilson Combat disagrees

Re-inserting the the slide stop is fairly simple as long as that part is not incorrectly machined, as is sometimes the case, especially with aftermarket items. The beveled lobe on the slide stop is designed to depress the plunger as you apply pressure to the slide stop

Keep in mind that the tool-less disassembly/reassembly feature of the 1911 wasn't meant to be pretty, or to maintain a pristine appearance of the pistol. It was designed for military field use.

In order to avoid scratching the finish I've been inserting slide stop (along with slide and whatnot), followed by the plunger spring assembly, and then the thumb safety with the help of my old ID.

It makes sense that the slide stop has a beveled portion which would depress the plunger spring assembly. As you pointed out it's a weapon of war so while assembling it without scratching the finish is of great concern to me a soldier didn't give a hoot .

 

[unclenunzie]

Nah, the "plunger tube assembly" they refer to is the spring with detents. The Plunger Tube is something else they (and others) also offer.

PLUNGER TUBE, BULLET PROOF, BLUE

Crafted from robust solid bar stock, our stainless Bullet Proof plunger tube is built to last and can be easily installed in any 1911.

wilsoncombat.com

 

[CapnMac]

Removing the contents of the plunger tube are not normally necessary or cleaning a 1911.

What it does sound like is that you are actually asking about preventing the "idiot scratch." This is the curved gouge left by the ham fisted who swing the stop up in an arc, scarring the frame to get the stop jammed in under the stop pin.

Plenty of ways to hold the pin back--"jeweler's screwdriver" for one; 20 thou feeler gauge; guitar pick; all manner of things will hold the pin back to snap the stop in.

Now, going "old school" and leaving the recoil spring cap off and assembling the slide without spring tension, can simplify getting the slide stop in. Now, that means you are wrassling the recoil cap over the recoil spring, and having a thumb available to swivel the barrel plug around to capture it.

Having one of these

can help that process.

 

[nettlle]

I use a small screwdriver tip with cotton on it so as not to scratch the gun.

 

[LV Gun]

I use one of my expired plastic coated gun club membership cards it works great and doesn’t scratch the gun.

 

[Dan Wesson]

https://www.10-8performance.com/armorer-tool-orange-2pk/

You won’t do better than this tool!

 

[twofewscrews]

Removing the contents of the plunger tube are not normally necessary or cleaning a 1911.

With any new firearm I break it down once a day minimum to familiarize and memorize how to do so. With this one I've spent some time identifying and knocking off the high spots on the disconnector and trigger bow as well as experimenting with the sear spring and sensitising the grip safety. The trigger now breaks at 3lbs 4.5oz and has no hammer follow or anything like that.

What it does sound like is that you are actually asking about preventing the "idiot scratch." This is the curved gouge left by the ham fisted who swing the stop up in an arc, scarring the frame to get the stop jammed in under the stop pin.

Exactly. It's brand new and the plunger tube spring assembly or whatever we're calling it is very stiff. The slide stop is beveled as you've pointed out, but I feel it's only a matter of time or times using that method before the idiot scratch makes it's appearance.

Plenty of ways to hold the pin back--"jeweler's screwdriver" for one; 20 thou feeler gauge; guitar pick; all manner of things will hold the pin back to snap the stop in.

My goal is to be able to disassemble and assemble it without tools and without scratching the finish. Maybe when it's a little more worn I'll be able to push the slide stop without having to push the plunger tube assembly spring thing back with some kind of implement.

 

[twofewscrews]

I use a small screwdriver tip with cotton on it so as not to scratch the gun.

I've got all kinds of stuff to use that won't scratch it but my goal is to use no tool or implement of any kind.

I've got IDs, plastic shims, credit cards, metro cards, guitar picks, nylon flathead screw drivers . . . But they all count against me.

 

[twofewscrews]

https://www.10-8performance.com/armorer-tool-orange-2pk/

You won’t do better than this tool!

I have plenty of tools or implements I can use . . . But no tool is my goal.

 

[nettlle]

I've got all kinds of stuff to use that won't scratch it but my goal is to use no tool or implement of any kind.

I've got IDs, plastic shims, credit cards, metro cards, guitar picks, nylon flathead screw drivers . . . But they all count against me.

If you let your fingernails grow a bit I'll bet that will work.

 

[gc70]

A couple of things.

I have an extremely safe way to insert the slide stop only using my fingers as shown in the photo below. The gun is stable with the top of the slide pressed against my stomach. The thumb of my left hand prevents the slide stop from rotating down and scratching the frame. The thumb of my right hand prevents the slide stop from rotating up and scratching the slide. The joint of my right hand's thumb presses the slide stop into place.

I have also attached an excellent video that shows how to detail strip a 1911 with no tools. The guy who did the video is not only my 1911 guru, but always has a yard full of rescue dogs.

 

[FL-NC]

The firing pin should work

 

[9mmepiphany]

In order to avoid scratching the finish I've been inserting slide stop (along with slide and whatnot), followed by the plunger spring assembly, and then the thumb safety

That is the root of the issue you're experiencing...you've reversed the correct assembly sequence.

The correct sequence is to first install the thumb safety and the plunger spring assembly before attempting to install the slide stop.

The slide stop lever, if correctly manufactured, has a bevel at it's rear which pushes the plunger into the plunger tube as the slide stop is pushed straight into the frame/slide. What causes many "idiot marks" are folks trying to sinstall the slide stop at an angle to try to "encourage" the plunger/spring to be pushed back into the tube.

Unfortunately some manufacturers, in an attempt to meet a buyer's expected price point, are not contouring the slide stop correctly in trying to cut cost. If you've bought one of these 1911s with this cost cutting feature, the best thing to do is have a gunsmith profile it correctly for you. If your 1911's slide stop is correctly profiled, you need to learn to trust it

 

[twofewscrews]

Unfortunately some manufacturers, in an attempt to meet a buyer's expected price point, are not contouring the slide stop correctly in trying to cut cost. If you've bought one of these 1911s with this cost cutting feature, the best thing to do is have a gunsmith profile it correctly for you. If your 1911's slide stop is correctly profiled, you need to learn to trust it

In the future I will be purchasing a slide stop from Wilson Combat or another manufacturer that makes "forever parts", but before I go to a "forever part" I think I'll buy a cheap one and do a little experimentation . . . modify the slide stop a wee bit

Im having a ball learning and tinkering

 

[halfmoonclip]

My goal is to be able to disassemble and assemble it without tools and without scratching the finish. Maybe when it's a little more worn I'll be able to push the slide stop without having to push the plunger tube assembly spring thing back with some kind of implement.

Please, due respect, but why not throw in darkness, pouring rain, and a DI screaming in your ear?
Listen to 9mmepiphany; the slide stop is supposed to have a camming surface, which will push the plunger in with a short upward/inward stroke.
Of course, put the recoil spring in last. I have some other pistols that require the slide stop be removed while the slide is under spring pressure...they are a pain.
Moon

 

[twofewscrews]

Please, due respect, but why not throw in darkness, pouring rain, and a DI screaming in your ear?

Don't threaten me with a good time

 

[tark]

Wilson Combat disagrees

And they are wrong...The plunger tube is the part that assembly fits into.

Some terminology mixups here. The "plunger tube" is the actual tube that the parts in the pic you posted fit inside. That tube is factory assembled and not designed for either field stripping or detail disassembly.

The pic you posted is actually three parts that are designed to be removed as a single unit, usually referred to as the "plunger spring assembly". It consists of the "slide stop plunger", "plunger spring" and "safety lock plunger". The opposite ends of the plungers snap into the ends of the spring.

This is correct.

 

[CapnMac]

Maybe when it's a little more worn I'll be able to push the slide stop without having to push the plunger tube assembly spring thing back with some kind of implement.

It will be a combination of practice, parts wear, and how you hold your tongue (several expurts disagree on the latter )

It's a topic that crops up on THR frequently.
For example: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ous-idiot-scratch.902410/page-3#post-12226608

Some Search Results for "Idiot Scratch": https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?search/10636836/&q=idiot+scratch&o=relevance

Please, due respect, but why not throw in darkness, pouring rain, and a DI screaming in your ear?

Having been on both sides of that equation, allow me to laugh uproariously

As a result, I have been known to just lock the slide back and mop the bore as the only "cleaning" a given pistol gets. Although, typically, I'm more like to dismount the slide to get the barrel loose. The breech face gets a good brushing to loose any carbon build up (I rather like the M16 cleaning brush as the narrow end can get under the extractor if you hold your mouth right).

 

[sqlbullet]

So, I played with this a bit last night. I was able to get the thumb safety installed past the plunger using the following parts not already in the gun:

Firing pin - This worked pretty well, and I was able to use the slide stop pin to get the firing pin installed after the fact. This would be my "go-to" as the firing pin has no hard edges at play near the firearm finish.

USGI Magazine follower - Also worked well and also a part that is "free" for the job. But, it does have some hard edges that if you slipped or weren't careful could leave a mark.

Barrel Bushing - Never would have thought of this one were it not for 1911Tuner's video linked above. Worked fine. If your bushing is "melted" this seems like a good relatively non-marring option. A USGI bushing I would take a bit more care.

Hammer Strut/Triple Spring - These work. In my typical sequence these parts are already installed when I am putting in the thumb and grip safeties. That's not a right or wrong, just my way.

Edit to add, if I have my gun I will have as a typical load out three different knives with a total of 7 blades, as well as a file, saw and several screwdriver tips. I think this is a good skill to have, but I am hard pressed to thing I would ever not have a tool that works better than a part as a tool.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

The Wilson Plunger Tube Assembly is the plungers and spring assembled thst go into the Plunger Tube.
That terminology has confused me more than once and I have owned a Auto Ordnance 1911 .45 Pistol since 1997.
I have shot it in local military matches as both vintage and modern pistol off and on for over 20 years.
So far have I have replaced extractor, slide stop, hammer spring and front sight.

 

[twofewscrews]

if I have my gun I will have as a typical load out three different knives with a total of 7 blades, as well as a file, saw and several screwdriver tips. I think this is a good skill to have, but I am hard pressed to thing I would ever not have a tool that works better than a part as a tool.

Unless I'm in dress clothes or swimming trunks this never leaves my hip.