Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by Kingofthehill, Oct 28, 2009.
Looks like its headed to the a smith tomorrow. Thanks for the reply's
First thing I would ask is this a tried and true gun you are familiar with? When you said "I took a 1911 out shooting.", it doesn' sound like your gun
If it's new to you or someone else's gun there's no telling what's been done to it.
Did it have a very light trigger?
If it's a gun you're familiar with, I would ask, have you changed "anything" on the gun lately?
I had a fully automatic double-tap experience on a .22 target pistol, because I had taken just a 'skosh' of play out of the trigger linkage. It shot 2 rounds everytime the trigger was pulled. It shot so fast that you didn't hear two shots, just a slightly different sound.
One of the `1911 gurus will probably be able to pinpoint a likely cause,
That is called "doubling" and is usually a sign of a gun about to go full auto. Do not put a full magazine in the gun until it is repaired. There is a problem with the hammer, sear or disconnector. You really don't want to have a 1911 with a full mag go full auto on you. Trust me on this.
I've seen both a 1911 and a S&W Model 59 go full auto back when I was rangemaster for our department. They're uncontrollable when it's an unexpected occurrence. Get the pistol to the gunsmith so he can repair the sear.
Hope this helps.
This thread is just plain ol' weird.
ya it is
It's happened to me....Get it looked at it before loading & firing again...
Couldn't you just replace the sear on your own, rather than send it in to the shop?
"Couldn't you just replace the sear on your own, rather than send it in to the shop?"
no, No, and NO. Setting up a 1911 trigger for safe operation is not a parts replacement drill. The various parts--sear, disconnect, trigger, (some) safeties, all interact and have to be fit to work together well (e.g., a good trigger) and properly. The typical variance in dimensions in individua firearms really do make it a project for someone with 1911-smithing experience.
I suppose you could do it yourself, if you buy the jigs for stoning and if you study the Kuehnhausen, Wilson, or whoever manuals. But, unless you work with 1911s frequently, this should be left to a gunsmith who does.
Doubletap 1911: Could preclude FULL-AUTO & FLIP-BACK--this will kill you
Heavy lube or worn/modified parts can and do result in full-magazine emptying. Several stories exist of shooters being killed by the gun going full-auto, flipping back BEFORE YOU CAN REACT and blowing much of shooter's head off.
Witnessed: Use of heavier lube* in sear/disconnector/etc. resulted in a VERY fast doubletap, which was over before shooter could mentally compute what happened. Fortunately the test was done with only two rounds in the clip. A repeat test gave the same results. Very dangerous! (*Suggested by "expert" to slick up the trigger, etc. Beware "experts" who really are winging it.)
Next step was to take gun down entirely, clean all parts, re-lube with standard oil/lube only. Re-tests were O.K., normal, and gun was normal for years thereafter.
My old Auto Ordnance 1911 I keep as a car gun started shooting doubles with Wolf steel case 45 ammo but ok with brass ammo. Finally it went full auto with brass ammo. I'm an average adult male old guy and had no problem with shooting my head off. Actually smiled when I knew what was happening but was worried about legal problems. I disassembled and obviously the sear hooks on the hammer were worn beyond saving. I have a fair number of 1911's and have accumilated a bag of parts over time. Found a good hammer and installed it. The trigger stirrup seemed to hang up a little so I tweeked it till it moved freely. Went to the clearing where I shoot to test and everything worked fine, no problems. While I was there the sheriff showed up with the chain gang to clean up a trash pile someone had dumped across the road. I asked if he wanted me to stop shooting and he said I was legal and no concern to him. The chain gang guys were sure interested. Glad I had fixed the full auto problem. I have fired several hundred rounds in this pistol with no problems. My opinion is that if you have some mechanical ability you can do a lot of your own work on 1911's if you have some reference material and don't need target grade work. I have target grade 1911"s and really don't consider them carry pistols. Just my experience, I know others will disagree.
I had a Kimber go full auto after a bad trigger job. Shooting 5 grains of 231 with a 200g. LSWC shooting freehand, 2 hands (thank god). At 15 yards the first round went where pointed, second 8" high and the other three I have no idea but it climbed about another 30 degrees before it jammed. The only other time my heart raced that much was with my first girlfriend (I will spare the details).
I did a function check many times after I got it back from the smith and had no problems. Needless to say I took it to a different smith and got my money back from the first. Not fun.
Hammer/sear engagement too weak (e.g., hammer hooks worn or broken off), or a disconnector sticking or otherwise faulty. Cease use until it is repaired, or next time it might "run away" until it empties the magazine.
disconnector worn down.
If the disconnector was worn down, it wouldn't be able to fire at all.
You have a weak sear spring, or a damaged sear, or damaged hammer hooks.
Or a combination of two or more of them.
The mis-information available on the internet concerning the 1911 is staggering.
I don't have the time or the inclination to correct most as this usually leads to bickering.
First time I ever shot a pistol was a 1911 that went full auto, with a full clip. I was at the police range and I asked the guy if I could try a clip with his gun...He said "Sure", and I pulled the trigger. Whhhhhap! The clip emptied and the muzzle was pointed almost at the top of my head!
Needless to say, the guy was red-faced, and mumbled something about the sear, said "Sorry" and took his piece back!
You sure got that right!
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