1911 firing pin
- Thread starter JoeHenry
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JTQ
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Springfield uses a proprietary size firing pin for their .45 Autos, and I suspect they use the same one for their 9mm.
For instance, this Brownell's info for EGW firing pins shows the Springfield firing pin at .075 diameter.
https://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/action-parts/firing-pin-parts/firing-pins/1911-firing-pin-prod26865.aspx?avs|Make_3=1911
bannockburn
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JoeHenry
Don't know about Springfield Armory but Colt uses the same firing pin for the .38 Super and 9mm. and a different one for the .45. I have a Colt Commander in .38 Super and I don't change out the firing pin when I convert it to 9mm.
Don't know about Springfield Armory but Colt uses the same firing pin for the .38 Super and 9mm. and a different one for the .45. I have a Colt Commander in .38 Super and I don't change out the firing pin when I convert it to 9mm.
1MoreFord
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The info I've seen before says they use the Colt sized 9mm/.38 Super sized pins in titanium with extra power springs to pass California's drop test.
Do a 'net search for Springfield 1911 firing pin and you'll see many posts on this subject.
Do a 'net search for Springfield 1911 firing pin and you'll see many posts on this subject.
JTQ
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Fella's, from the Brownell's page...
The Colt 9mm/.38 Super size is the wrong size.
98Redline
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Just a question, why would you want to change the Ti firing pin out to a steel one?
The Springfield guns are Series 70, which means there is no firing pin safety. As such they use a lightweight firing pin (normally titanium) to prevent the pin from having enough inertia to set off a primer unless specifically hit with the hammer.
Putting a heavier firing pin in would increase the chance of an AD if the gun were dropped. It would also, albeit minimally, increase the lock time.
The Springfield guns are Series 70, which means there is no firing pin safety. As such they use a lightweight firing pin (normally titanium) to prevent the pin from having enough inertia to set off a primer unless specifically hit with the hammer.
Putting a heavier firing pin in would increase the chance of an AD if the gun were dropped. It would also, albeit minimally, increase the lock time.
Steve in Allentown
Member
Ti firing pins in 1911s require a much stronger than standard mainspring (hammer spring) to reliably set off primers. Replacing Ti firing pins with steel ones allows the use of much lighter than standard mainsprings that will still reliably set off primers.
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JoeHenry
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Just purchased a Springfield RO in 9MM. On first trip to the range I was getting light hits on the primers. I figure to change out the firing pin to a steel one to correct this, along with a slightly lighter firing pin spring.
Most of my 1911’s are series 70 and if they weren’t that originally, I have changed them to 70 series.
I have a Wilson CQB, Les Bare P II, Kimber (purchased before firing pin block) and a S&W 1911. All have steel firing pins and came new equipped that way. I think the light weight pin is mostly for California. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
There is no free lunch.
Changing the mainspring changes several things other than how hard the hammer strikes, among them drag on the slide, and therefore slide speed, which can lead to timing issues, lock issues and jamming issues.
That's just the first example that sprang to mind.
To make your Springfield pin work (even if it was just for California) all the rest of the issues had to be re-balanced, and the fact that your weapon works says that they were.
Usually, I just laugh when people talk about "drop in" parts on 1911s, or read claims that simply changing a spring here or clipping a coil there will result in whiter whites, fresher breath and more sex. The only times I'm usually tempted to speak up is if someone mentions something that's going to cause doubling first, then real problems.
But you don't solve a problem on a 1911 in isolation, ever, and you never get away with solving just one problem.
1911s can masquerade as functioning fine when, in fact, they're beating themselves to death and the owner simply isn't aware of the problem he's created with his bombproof IPSIC load out, and none of the "tests" he found on the net revealed the new problems.
Working on 1911s is extremely enjoyable. But you're going to pay the tuition to learn.
You can spend (quite literally) thousands of dollars in mangled parts, tools, equipment and botched guns, or you can take a class.
The cheap, fast, easy way is the class, and you'll be much safer along the way.
And finally, it's Springfield's problem. They have great customer service. It's only your problem if you really want it to be yours.
Good luck.
P.S. There's a much easier cure for light primer strikes on a 1911.
Changing the mainspring changes several things other than how hard the hammer strikes, among them drag on the slide, and therefore slide speed, which can lead to timing issues, lock issues and jamming issues.
That's just the first example that sprang to mind.
To make your Springfield pin work (even if it was just for California) all the rest of the issues had to be re-balanced, and the fact that your weapon works says that they were.
Usually, I just laugh when people talk about "drop in" parts on 1911s, or read claims that simply changing a spring here or clipping a coil there will result in whiter whites, fresher breath and more sex. The only times I'm usually tempted to speak up is if someone mentions something that's going to cause doubling first, then real problems.
But you don't solve a problem on a 1911 in isolation, ever, and you never get away with solving just one problem.
1911s can masquerade as functioning fine when, in fact, they're beating themselves to death and the owner simply isn't aware of the problem he's created with his bombproof IPSIC load out, and none of the "tests" he found on the net revealed the new problems.
Working on 1911s is extremely enjoyable. But you're going to pay the tuition to learn.
You can spend (quite literally) thousands of dollars in mangled parts, tools, equipment and botched guns, or you can take a class.
The cheap, fast, easy way is the class, and you'll be much safer along the way.
And finally, it's Springfield's problem. They have great customer service. It's only your problem if you really want it to be yours.
Good luck.
P.S. There's a much easier cure for light primer strikes on a 1911.
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Steve in Allentown
Member
You obviously know your way around 1911s. As I read your post I thought it was me writing it.
Too true. I'm reminded of all the extractors I destroyed years ago as I was teaching myself how to fit them correctly. I jokingly told George at EGW that he could retire from all the money I spent on his extractors.
Alright, you've piqued my interest. Don't leave us all in suspense. What's the easier cure?
Federal primers.
BBBBill
Member
Titanium firing pins are a pox on the 1911! This is the most common issue with the Springfield Armory guns. Replace with the correct diameter for your gun (measure before you buy) and replace the guts of your mainspring housing with standard 1911 parts (eliminate the ILS). Your gun will appreciate it.
Blue68f100
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That only works if your hand loading. Buying what ever is on sale will be a hit or miss. BBBill has the correct fix to make it 100% reliable on all ammo.
Steve in Allentown
Member
Ha! I run Federals in a S&W 625 on which I did a trigger job that brought the trigger pull down to ~4lbs. The soft Federal primers insure ignition. When I load the cylinder with any factory ammo I replace the hammer spring with one that's more like 5.5lbs which will light off any factory ammo I've tried.
Running factory Federal ammo will obviously give you the advantage of using Federal primers without having to reload.
Still, I wouldn't want to limit myself to using only Federal ammo in a 1911. I've done as Bill suggested and replaced Springfield's ILS and Ti firing pins on any such pistols that cross my path.
How do you know the firing pin is the cause of "light strikes" Is the gun new or used?. What ammo did you use?. So many variables.
entropy
Member
Best post I've ever seen on THR about working on 1911's.
Fortunately for me, Uncle Sugar provided the parts, and the class.
+1 on Federal primers curing light strikes.
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JoeHenry
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Boy, did this post turn into a can of worms. I ordered a Ed Brown steel firing pin of the correct size. Should be here tomorrow. That along with a reduced power firing pin spring should take care of the lighter strikes.
The 9MM RO is a new pistol. One hundred rounds (factory ammo and my reloads) and aprox. One third did not go bang. Light hits made it frustrating day. Pistol seemed to function properly when you could touch one off.
Same ammo worked perfect in Sig P365 and Browning High Power.
It was suggested that I send the RO to Springfield. Firing pin cost $7.00. I purchased this gun as a project, down the road, all new tool steel parts to make it what I want. Don’t have any desire to send in gun and deal with Springfield.
The 9MM RO is a new pistol. One hundred rounds (factory ammo and my reloads) and aprox. One third did not go bang. Light hits made it frustrating day. Pistol seemed to function properly when you could touch one off.
Same ammo worked perfect in Sig P365 and Browning High Power.
It was suggested that I send the RO to Springfield. Firing pin cost $7.00. I purchased this gun as a project, down the road, all new tool steel parts to make it what I want. Don’t have any desire to send in gun and deal with Springfield.
Steve in Allentown
Member
To be clear, you don't need or want a lighter firing pin spring. In fact, Wolff includes stronger firing pin springs with every recoil spring.
I would replace the mainspring with a factory spec 23lb. You can go lighter but at this point I would establish a baseline using factory spec for both the mainspring and the recoil spring. You can experiment with lighter ones after you make the pistol 100% reliable.
Personally, I'd throw the factory mainspring housing away along with the ILS parts and fit a new non-Springfield one. You can get flat or curved. You can get checkered, smooth, or grooved. Brownells sells a wide variety.
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JoeHenry
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Steve in Allen town, the Springfield 1911’s no longer come with the ILS parts. They do have a pretty heavy hammer spring and firing pin spring. I am quite pleased with the fit of slide to frame and barrel to slide. The trigger however needs work. I have parts coming from Cylinder and Slide to remedy that.
Steve in Allentown
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I didn't know that.
I don't recall off the top of my head the weight of the Springfield OEM hammer spring but I know it's considerably heavier than the 23lbs called for in U.S Military Ordnance specifications. 5" 1911s should run perfectly with standard spec 23lb hammer springs. I encourage you to replace the one that came with the pistol with a Wolff 23lb, as long as you're going to replace the Ti firing pin with the steel Ed Brown firing pin at the same time.
The whole reason Springfield put titanium firing pins in the pistols was to decrease the potential for an accidental discharge caused by a firing pin hitting the primer when the loaded pistol was dropped directly onto its muzzle from a specified height. This is simply an effect of inertia acting upon the firing pin.
When you replace the Ti firing pin with a steel firing pin, inertia is still a factor to consider and is why Wolff includes a heavier than standard firing pin spring with their recoil springs. A heavier firing pin spring will help to keep the firing pin from impacting the primer and causing an accidental discharge. I wasn't aware there were lighter than standard weight firing pin springs but I would avoid them
Why, SF armory is very responsive. A new gun should work and they have excellent CS. Now if the FTF was your ammo then that's a different story,
But heck it's your gun, up to you.
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