1911 TALL Grip safety

[Ak Guy]

I'm looking for an after market grip safety (1911 full size) w/ EXTRA TALL "bump" ..........I often fail to dis-engage the grip safety. Surely, someone must have a product to help w/ this pbm ....??? Or is it just me ??

 

[Winkman822]

For the most part, all 1911 thumb safeties are going to ride at the same height. That said, the width of the lever can vary greatly. If you're using a standard GI-spec thumb safety or a low profile tactical safety, I can see how you may miss the lever if you're not being deliberate enough. For that kind of situation, I'd recommend either being more deliberate in the way that you practice your draw and presentation of the pistol. If you still want to get a different thumb safety that will give you more real estate, get something like the Wilson Combat offering below:

http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Thumb-Safety-Wide-Lever-Bullet-Proof-Blue/productinfo/659B/

 

[AZAndy]

You could always stick an adhesive pad to the back of it, like those little squares that people use to place posters on walls. Or you could epoxy something onto the bottom. Either of those would be cheaper and easier than replacing the safety, as those will usually need fitting.

Edit to add: Speaking of fitting, you can also file down a spot on the existing one to make it not have to travel as far to disengage. Not home at the moment, so I can't take a photo of one to show you where the file gets applied...

 

[L-2]

For the most part, all 1911 thumb safeties are going to ride at the same height. That said, the width of the lever can vary greatly. If you're using a standard GI-spec thumb safety or a low profile tactical safety, I can see how you may miss the lever if you're not being deliberate enough. For that kind of situation, I'd recommend either being more deliberate in the way that you practice your draw and presentation of the pistol. If you still want to get a different thumb safety that will give you more real estate, get something like the Wilson Combat offering below:

http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Thumb-Safety-Wide-Lever-Bullet-Proof-Blue/productinfo/659B/

The OP said "grip" safety, not "thumb" safety.

 

[Winkman822]

The OP said "grip" safety, not "thumb" safety.

Oops! Disregard my post in that case.

 

[Steve in Allentown]

I'm looking for an after market grip safety (1911 full size) w/ EXTRA TALL "bump" ..........I often fail to dis-engage the grip safety. Surely, someone must have a product to help w/ this pbm ....??? Or is it just me ??

The EGW grip safety has a very pronounced bump that extends well above the mainspring housing. So much so that I find it somewhat annoying and have had to file it down. I'd be surprised if it did not suit your needs. It, like nearly every other 1911 part, is not a drop-in part and will require fitting. Here's a link to the EGW site: http://www.egwguns.com/beavertail-grip-safeties/

 

[oldandslow]

ak,

I've had the same problem with my 1911's (SA x 2, Sig c3) and found the answer in a "low mount or low lever" thumb safety which lowered my grip and allowed my hand to more consistently depress the grip safety. Wilson Combat makes one type and I forget who makes the others. It solved the problem for me. Good luck.

oldandslow

 

[tark]

We called them "High Hump" safeties at the shop. Actually, all of the Baer guns come with them standard, unless the customer specifies otherwise. The exception is the Hardball guns for target competition at Perry. They have regular 1911A1 grip safeties.

Everybody makes them. Brownell's has a bunch. Steve posted a good source and he's right about it not being a drop in part. A bit of fitting will be required. Click on the pic next to my name and you can see the pronounced "hump" at the bottom of the safety.

 

[1911 guy]

I put a Smith & Alexander on a gun and like it.

 

[Ak Guy]

Thanx for comments. I think the first thing I'm gonna do is change out my mainspring housing.....I've got a "V" shaped one (I have no idea why I thought that would be a good thing) and get a flat one. (Ed Brown on order). I think that may allow my grip to get more "onto" the grip safety. We'll see what happens. If that doesn't help enough, I'll prob add some JB WELD to the back of my safety "bump". I've had good luck w/ JB adhering to metal...........certainly a cheap option.......and I can make the "bump" anything I want it to be........ yeah, I like that plan........!!

 

[Drail]

The only "proper" way to correct the problem is to have the grip safety adjusted to release with less movement. Any thing else is a band aid that may still leave you with a gun that you cannot fire when you absolutely need it to fire. It's just like driving a car whose brakes only work "most of the time", but only if you depress the pedal in the exact center. It's a real shame that manufacturers will sell you a gun with this problem but they do because they simply "drop in" parts and never check the function. Do not rely on a "hump" to disengage the grip safety - it helps but it does not guarantee function. All of my 1911s have had the grip safeties disabled or pinned in (these are all competition race guns as I do not carry semi autos for CCW use). The grip safety was a dumb idea that should have been done away with many years ago on mass produced 1911s and high ride grip safeties just make the situation even worse. It can leave you in a Very Bad situation if you cannot fire the gun because of a poorly fitted the grip "safety" if the gun is your CCW carry. Your grip safety MUST release no matter how fast or how poor a grip you obtain in the time you have and allow you to fire it. EVERY SINGLE TIME. No exceptions.

 

[drband]

I agree they must be fitted properly. I do not have a problem carrying a 1911 with a correctly fitted grip safety. Everybody must make their own decision, taking into account their own training and comfort level with a GS.

 

[DT Guy]

The only "proper" way to correct the problem is to have the grip safety adjusted to release with less movement. Any thing else is a band aid that may still leave you with a gun that you cannot fire when you absolutely need it to fire. It's just like driving a car whose brakes only work "most of the time", but only if you depress the pedal in the exact center. It's a real shame that manufacturers will sell you a gun with this problem but they do because they simply "drop in" parts and never check the function. Do not rely on a "hump" to disengage the grip safety - it helps but it does not guarantee function. All of my 1911s have had the grip safeties disabled or pinned in (these are all competition race guns as I do not carry semi autos for CCW use). The grip safety was a dumb idea that should have been done away with many years ago on mass produced 1911s and high ride grip safeties just make the situation even worse. It can leave you in a Very Bad situation if you cannot fire the gun because of a poorly fitted the grip "safety" if the gun is your CCW carry. Your grip safety MUST release no matter how fast or how poor a grip you obtain in the time you have and allow you to fire it. EVERY SINGLE TIME. No exceptions.

Agree completely; I have mine fitted until a *very* light touch disengages the safety, but it prevents trigger movement securely without any pressure applied.

Larry

 

[earplug]

I see no reason to keep a grip safety. Blocking the trigger from moving is its only function. A high grip with a beaver tail style safety will push the safety up engaging the trigger. Try shooting on the clock from a holster and it will happen to you. Its a unique design feature that few other pistols designers have felt was needed. If it was advantages it would be incorporated into rifles and pistols. Which makes more sense since people shoot them self pulling loaded long guns out of vehicles.

 

[Drail]

It WAS an advantageous accessory when the pistol was going to be issued to and used in combat by soldiers mounted on horses who had only one hand available to draw, fire, and reholster their sidearm while it was still loaded AND cocked while attempting to control a terrified mount and possibly drop the pistol. Other than that - not so much. It would merely be a harmless appendage IF it could never block the trigger because it was poorly fitted, not fitted at all, or never used on a pistol that may need to be hastily drawn and employed in a self defense situation. The thumb safety locking the sear is enough. I had only a couple of instances in USPSA competition where my grip safety would not release the trigger and decided to disable it. Most USPSA 1911 shooters disable their grip safety - the rules allow it. My biggest complaint is all of the mass produced 1911s sold today where the grip safety is simply dropped in and never function checked. Any company who does that shouldn't even be building lawn mowers much less firearms that users are going to stake their lives on.

 

[tark]

The Army wanted it, that's why it was put on the gun.

 

[Ak Guy]

Good points.......do I even want the damn thing? I just finished fitting a new thumb safety, and it turned out really good....tight and snug.....maybe I'll just go w/ that. I hear folks talk about "pinning" the grip safety.......is that an actual "pin" somewhere ? How does that work ?

 

[Drail]

You carefully drill a shallow hole into the top of the mainspring housing and the bottom of the grip safety, insert a pin into the mainspring housing, slide it into place while holding in on the grip safety. The pin will keep the grip safety in against the frame.

 

[larryh1108]

I say it is easier and looks better if you file away the part of the safety that blocks the trigger. This makes the safety a non-entity and still looks "factory". Easy to do as well.

 

[entropy]

I often fail to dis-engage the grip safety.

You answered your own question. Solution? Several options are mentioned here. I would go one better on larryh1108's suggestion and modify a replacement grip safety and install it, keeping the original to go with the gun if sold or passed on to someone who might want it original and the safety working.