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22-250 accuracy loads

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by Tarvis, Jan 26, 2008.

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  1. Tarvis

    Tarvis Member

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    Down and dirty gentlemen, I just got my Savage 12 LRPV in 22-250 and it's time to start pullin the handle. Give me, if you will, your top 2 loads including bullet weight and style, along with powder type and weight as well as any other good info for making a 400 yard squirrel assassin rifle. Good things to add would be like how far you like to seat the ogive from the lands, what kind of primers you like, etc.

    Thanks a ton guys.
     
  2. dakotasin

    dakotasin Member

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    #1: 55 hornady v-max, h-380.
    #2: 52 sierra matchking, h-380.

    you'll find happiness w/ either load close to 38 grains of powder, and bullets seated just off the rifleing.

    cci 200 primers w/ either.

    good luck!
     
  3. sublimaze41

    sublimaze41 Member

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    I have 2 Savage .22-250s and any bullet between 50-55 grains is dead on with either I4064 or Varget. I bought a crapload of Hornady Vmax just before the increase so that is what I will be shooting more of in the future. Both Sierra and Nosler gave excellent results as well.

    Primers are just what happen to be around. Before you buy match anything, try the standard stuff, you WILL be amazed at the consistent accuracy. I am assuming you have some good glass on the gun.
     
  4. dennisH87

    dennisH87 Member

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    i have a Savage 12FV in 22-250 and i reload 40gr. V-Max bullets, 39.6 gr. H380, Win primer and case. Neck size your cases. That made the most differnce in my gun. i load them to COAL right now, but im experiementing with closer to the lands. this ronud will be at about 3800 fps out of a 26" barrel. groups are one hole at 100 yards (5 shots) , 200 dime size (what i have it zeroed at), 300 about 1 inch diamiter, and 400 + idk. I've shot ground hogs at 450 yards and was able to take head shots and on the first shot wtih a cold bore.
     
  5. dakotasin

    dakotasin Member

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    wanted to add that the 22-250 is a very easy chambering to load for, very forgiving.

    i'll never forget: my 22-250 was the first rifle i ever hand loaded for. i spent many a hour, burned lots of powder, and flung a lot of bullets out of it before i started figuring out what i was doing. my friends would make fun of my time wasted handloading because my accuracy sucked. finally, i got this handloading stuff sorted out, and really started getting some great accuracy. my friend really went out of his way to show me that i was wasting my time. so, a quarter was taped to a target and backed off 250 yards. he shot his 223 w/ factory loads 5 times (which really was quite accurate for a factory gun shooting factory loads) and couldn't hit it. my first shot nailed that quarter! that quarter is still on my keychain, and that was the very last time i had to justify handloading, especially when we went prairie dogging...
     
  6. Tarvis

    Tarvis Member

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    Well, the glass the gun was bought with hasn't arrived yet but its a tasco super sniper in 6-24x ... well he said 60 on the ad on gunbroker.com but I looked everywhere and didn't find what he described. The scope should be ok for PD's out to 600 I'd guess, but who knows. If the scope looks even remotely crappy, I'll buy something good.

    Currently I have Hornady 40gr vmax and 52gr match bullets to try with win748 and 4064. What do you guys think about Winchester brass? I haven't had any problems (that I know of) and I'm thinkin of buyin a pack of 500 from midwayusa.com. I read some mediocre reviews of what they were getting from midway so I'm trying to find a better dealer.

    You mean the the published MCOAL (Maximum Cartidge Over All Length) ;). Try .005 from the lands. I've read that some benchrest shooters shoot bullets as large as 6mm seated .020 INTO the lands. You shouldn't have any problems with getting close to touching.

    Do you mean turn the necks, or .... ?? The necks are always sized when you use a standard depriming die..
     
  7. swiss7.5

    swiss7.5 Member

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    Last edited: Mar 24, 2008
  8. Tarvis

    Tarvis Member

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    Very nice. I'll try 4895 if I don't get the results I want with 4064 or win748.
     
  9. ForneyRider

    ForneyRider Member

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    We shot about 10 of the 60 .22-250 rounds I made in my Dad's Remington 700 VLS.

    Hornady 50gr V-Max
    Nosler brass
    CCI large rifle primer
    35gr IMR 4064

    Nosler brass is wonderful.

    These loads are better than the shooter's(me, my brother, our buddy).
    I was slapping the trigger, just testing the rounds and hit MOA groups.

    Not sure what I am going to do with the IMR 3031 and H-Varget I have on the shelf.

    Love to shoot that rifle. Now if I could only get my 7mm mag to do that.
     
  10. Doug b

    Doug b Member

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    I'm getting good results with a hot load of Varget and Barnes varmint grenades.
     
  11. LeonCarr

    LeonCarr Member

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    +1 on Dakotasin's load. The reason that Bruce Hodgdon named that powder H380 was because the 38.0 grain charge of that powder with a 52 grain bullet in the .22-250 gave him one hole groups at 100 yards.

    I read that in one of the Hodgdon Reloading Manuals I believe. Double check your manuals and charge weights before proceeding, and follow safe handloading practices.

    Just my .02,
    LeonCarr
     
  12. Tarvis

    Tarvis Member

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    I might have to get some H380. until then, I just loaded some 4064 trial rounds and am workin on the win748 I bought, but wait... I can't find any data!! The books I have are old (speer and sierra, no 40gr bullet loads) and hodgdon.com doesnt list data for win748, so I'm outa luck unless I buy a book or someone knows the min and max for a 40gr v-max. Guess I'll dump my powder dispenser and give H414 a try.
     
  13. Doug b

    Doug b Member

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    Hodgdon #26 manual ,40gr. bullet ,Win.748
    Start 33.0gr.@3790fps ,43,800 cup
    Max. 35.0gr .@3962fps ,48,900 cup
     
  14. dennisH87

    dennisH87 Member

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    Winchester brass is great. I've had some problems with them while devolping loads for my 22-250. The necks started cracking so i sent them in and Winchested decided it wasnt my fault and rembursed me with a lot of 100 new virgin brass. I was VERY pleased with that and i probably wont buy anything else now.

    By COAL or COL i mean the Complete Overall Length as specified by reloading manuals.

    Beleive it or not, im an relitively new to this. I started reloading last spring. I really did my homework. This is key to devoloping accurate rounds efficiantly without wasting money/time. It will save you alot of frustration and will make you a more compitent and safe reloader. that being said; I first started with loading 3 sets of cartidges (5 in each set) in differnt powder charge weights, working my way up. (i loaded them all at once, then shot the lowest ones first while looking for signs of high presure as i went up in charge weight) after shooting the lowest, mid, and HOT loads i found that the mid range was most accurate. I stoped loading the hot loads becuase the primers were getting pushed back onto the bolt then not getting pushed back into the case by the recoil. They were sticking out of the case by a 1/16th of an inch. This is actually a sign of low presure, but for what ever reason, i quit loading them.

    Neck sizing means that only the neck of the catridge is strethced outward to allow the new bullet to be seated. When you fire your round, the case stretches out to seal the chamber, then flexes back to allow extraction. when you neck size cases, you allow the case to keep the deminsions of the rifle where the case touches the shoulder. It may create head space problems in your rifle though, everyone is differnt. When you allow the case to stay the same after it has stretched it is perfectly aligned with your bore. after shooting a case a couple time you will have to trim it so the case neck doesnt bottom out on the throat of the rifle. To neck size your cases go to your local hanloading dealer or Sinclair International and ask for a neck sizing die in your particular caliber (.224). this die is just like your Full Length sizing die except it doesnt size the case body, just the neck.

    Don't buy a tasco! lol, ive exprienced many of them and didnt like one. buy a BSA Mill-dot. It is simular to the Contender model except the contender doesnt have mill dots i beleive. i was looking at a mueller with a german #4 reticle but i decided i wanted mill dots. Both of these scopes are in the $100 - $150 range. It was more then i wanted to spend too, but they are the perfect combination between decent glass and ruggedness. Mill dots are a very usefull tool as they help to compensate for bullet drop with a little practice. They are actually for ranging targets but this is rather complicated if you've never used one before.

    btw, switch to H380. H380 was devoloped for the .22-250. some old guy a long time ago put 38grs of H380 behind a bullet and got excellent accuracy. Hints the name "H38.0" and it still holds true today. There is much more reloading data avialable for this powder. Not as much as Viht but i think Viht is too hot. i like my barrel the way it is. H380 is a ball powder which allows you to more accuratly measure and despense than some other powders. It also provides a consistant burn rate which greatly aids in accuracy. If you want accurate rounds, dont use your RCBS or equivelent powder depensor to throw your complete load. set it to throw a few grains low then get a powder trickler to add that last few grains while on the scale to get it EXACTLY on. This is how i make my accuracy rounds.

    Also buy a couple reloading manuls. they are very informational. If you want data, get the Hornady 7th ed. If you want techniques and accurization get the speer manual, which ever is newest.

    Hope this helps!

    if you need anymore help just email me at Dennh5533@hotmail.com I'll be glad to help.
     
  15. ranger335v

    ranger335v Member

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    I could give you the details of my accuracy loads but you don't shoot my rifle so I really doubt that info would be of any use to you or anyone else.
     
  16. ADKWOODSMAN

    ADKWOODSMAN Member

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    +2 on Dakotasin's loads. They work great in my Mod 700 Rem. ADL. The trigger is about 1/2 lb. and she will drive tacks with that load of H-380.
     
  17. Tarvis

    Tarvis Member

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    Just sounded funny to me, like if someone said "I loaded it to inches." What you meant was you loaded to the published MCOAL.

    Not exactly, as far as my understanding goes. The bullet being centered perfectly with the bore has more to do with case neck thickness and bolt alignment than if your brass is fire formed. Also, this is fine if you're only shooting the ammo out of one rifle, but we are taking at least 3 different rifles chambered in 22-250, so each case needs to be full-length resized or we'd have to keep close track of which brass goes with which rifle. Besides, I haven't heard of benchresters only neck sizing for accuracy.

    I'm not, thats just what came with the rifle.

    Actually, I'm looking into the $600-$1200 range, but thanks anyhow.

    I've already got 1lb tubs of win748, IMR4064, and H414 so I'll probably use those up before I get something different. Besides, if I find a good load with one of those, why change? I'm sure H380 is the cat's meow, but maybe it won't print really good groups, and maybe 4064 will.

    I'm just looking for suggestions; a place to start, not a place to finish.
     
  18. Lennyjoe

    Lennyjoe Member

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    35gr of Varget under 55gr V-max bullets did some nasty damage to jack rabbits when I was out in Arizona.

    I'd pretty much split them in half out to 100yds with them bullets. Very accurate load too.
     
  19. jenrob

    jenrob Member

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    VV N140 would be good. I shoot a lot of H380 out of mine but find that it is temp sensitve. I still use it. As far as running the bullet out into the Lands whatch for signs of high pressure when you start doing this. If you already have a load setup that you have been shooting and decide to try moveing the bullets out to the lands, then back down on the charge as this will increase pressure also.
     
  20. dennisH87

    dennisH87 Member

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    "Also, this is fine if you're only shooting the ammo out of one rifle, but we are taking at least 3 different rifles chambered in 22-250, so each case needs to be full-length resized or we'd have to keep close track of which brass goes with which rifle."

    trust me, neck sizing will make a difference. if you full length size your ammo you might as well sell all your reloading stuff and buy factory ammo becuase thats basically what your loading. neck size your ammo for each particular rifle and keep track of it by taking a felt tiped sharpie marker and color coding the primer to each rifle. make a sheet that has the rifle brand/whatever and make the red mark next to it, then make a red mark on all the primers you fired out of that gun after you have reloaded the rounds.

    "Actually, I'm looking into the $600-$1200 range, but thanks anyhow."

    You have too much money... the main thing you get with that price range of scopes is clairity. It wont make your groups smaller or make you a better shooter. why spend that much money on glass when you can spend a fraction of the cost of a high dollor scope and the cheaper one does the same thing.
     
  21. redneck2

    redneck2 Member

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    It's pretty easy to go to Hodgden's website. Also, pick up every free pamphlet you can get when you're at the store that sells reloading stuff. The companies will send them to you if they aren't available locally.

    Evidentally you've never used a good scope, or at least not very much. I love the "the main thing you get is clarity". Yeah, I want a fuzzy, blurred scope that strains my eyes...:scrutiny:

    For occasional or moderate use, something in the Burris, Nikon, Leupold is fine. I've got a friend that does a LOT of prairie dog shooting. He buys (and can easily afford) Swarovski. Says the biggest difference is with mirage and at the end of the day. Just looking through them, there's little difference. By the end of the day, you can tell a definite difference with eye fatigue. This is Swarovski vs. Leo VX-III's.

    Guess I'm getting a little burned out on guys that tell me how to spend my money, or if I get something good I'm a fool for spending that much. Tell the next Lexus or Mercedes driver you see that a Kia is just as good. After all, they've both got four tires and a steering wheel.

    There are Burris Black Diamonds on e-bay all the time that are in your price range. I'm getting a .204 sometime soon. If I can't swing the Swarovski, I'll get a Black Diamond.
     
  22. Tarvis

    Tarvis Member

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    .... um, I do neck size in my STANDARD full length resize die. Also, you said yourself that you were new to reloading... I think I'll trust a book.

    Ok, now I really know you don't know what youre talking about. Handloading is cheaper, relaxing, AND more accurate. Don't tell me what to do.

    Ok dude, I think you've said enough. If you get more clarity (i.e. a scope you can see through), it's not the same thing as a cheapo. No, I don't have too much money, this trip is very important to me and I want to bring good gear so I don't get stuck in Wyoming with some **** scope that doesn't do the job or doesn't hold a zero. I'm not buying a scope to be a better shooter or have smaller groups... where do you come off telling me how it is? Are you Jeff Cooper?

    Seriously though, you are detracting from the informational quality of this thread. I am trying to see what other people think for ****s and giggles and you come here, tell us you're new to reloading, and then start preaching your "wisdom" which is turning out to be nonsense. You obviously haven't been shooting long or you wouldn't be discouraging me from reloading or buying the gear I want based on YOUR preference. If you're happy with cheapo crap scopes, High Five; you're a great guy. I want something better, which is apparently beyond your comprehension. You must have no idea what they do at the nightforce factory to test thier scopes.

    Does anything I've said make sense? Do you realize that your advice is just your opinion and in most cases, completely worthless? If not, go boil your bottom or something, stop ruining my thread. :banghead::banghead::banghead:
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2008
  23. Steve 48

    Steve 48 Member

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    I have a Ruger #1 in 22-250 and a deadly and accurate load for it is 38 grs of H380 in a 50 gr Hornady V Max bullet. Steve48
     
  24. Tarvis

    Tarvis Member

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    Well, I think I've come to the conclusion that 55g bullets are the way to go, seems like thats what everyone likes. I've been told that 4064 is a great powder to use and everyone likes the 380 so I think I've got enough info to make a good load. Thanks a lot guys, been helpful.
     
  25. ADKWOODSMAN

    ADKWOODSMAN Member

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    Travis
    I posted before you liated your powders. My second favorite load has aways been 35 gr. IMR 4064 with a Sierra 52 gr. BTHP. Its not max but it has been very accurate in my .22-250.
    RDH
     
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