.22 Magnum Pistol finished!

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Got the sights finished and re-blued the gun. Here's some pictures; strangely the finish looks quite a bit lighter in these photos than it does in-person:
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Beautiful! I really like your posts on home made firearms and knives.
Have you ever considered going a step further and angle-ing or rounding off some of the edges?
Maybe a little scroll engraving? You certainly have the know how, tools and skill.
Not that there's a thing wrong with your scratch builds. I think they are amazing.
 
Beautiful! I really like your posts on home made firearms and knives.
Have you ever considered going a step further and angle-ing or rounding off some of the edges?
Maybe a little scroll engraving? You certainly have the know how, tools and skill.
Not that there's a thing wrong with your scratch builds. I think they are amazing.

For the moment I am liking the blocky, steam-punkish esthetic but I'll undoubtedly be doing some of that in the future.
 
Tinker

Really like the blued finish and the wood furniture together; just looks right for a single shot pistol. I like the shape of the grips too. Remind me of some of the designs Fuzzy Farrant use to make for S&W revolvers.
 
Very unique. I like it. :cool:

What are the specs on your creation? Barrel length, overall length, overall height, and perhaps weight?

OK- the gun is 7-3/4 inches long by 5 inches high. About 7/8-inches wide at the widest part (the fore-grip) and 1/2-inch thick at the frame, with the barrel just a tiny bit thicker. The barrel is 4-1/4-inches. The sight radius is 3-3/16-inches. Weight is- if I recall correctly- about 19-ounces. Trigger pull is (I guess) about 3-lbs. The gun will actually balance on my trigger-finger. In my hand the gun points to a sight picture automatically; all of the ergonomics are excellent for me since it was literally made for me. Unlike my previous .22 target pistol cocking-force is very light. The only Safety is the half-cock notch, which is very positive; you cannot 'pull through' the notch with the trigger.

The materials are 1018 mild steel, 5160 spring steel, Music Wire, some brass pins and walnut.

Funds are very tight at the moment, but I am vey much looking forward to a range-trip. I want to get the gun sighted-in; it's likely very close now, and the rear sight is drift-adjustable so I ought to be able to get it dialed-in pretty easily.
 
Very nice. Glad to know I'm not the only one here that makes his own guns. 1018 is good steel, I use it for non-stressed parts. Have you had anything heat treated? I THINK 1018 has just enough carbon in it to respond to heat treating.

Making your own guns is one of the most satisfying things a gun person can ever do. And it gets you a lot of attention at the range !
 
Barrels under 18 inches must be rifled per Federal regulations(except for muzzle-loading black-powder guns.) Rifling is difficult, and I actually know how to set up a tool to do it but rifled liners are so much easier. I usually buy them from Numrich Arms; typically they run anywhere from $12-$30 depending on the length and caliber.
 
Barrels under 18 inches must be rifled per Federal regulations(except for muzzle-loading black-powder guns.) Rifling is difficult, and I actually know how to set up a tool to do it but rifled liners are so much easier. I usually buy them from Numrich Arms; typically they run anywhere from $12-$30 depending on the length and caliber.

I am assuming that these liners need a strong cylindrical barrel to hold pressures. What about chambering? Are they chambered for a particular cartridge or do you have to chamber the thicker barrel that supports the pressure? If so, how do you keep the liner from being shot out with the bullet?
 
The 3/8" .22 caliber liners can actually be used as a barrel for .22 LR; however I always have at least the chamber supported by quite a bit of metal. .22 Magnum is much higher-pressure and needs to be supported by more material. Since these are straight-walled cases the chamber is reamed into the liner itself. I'm not sure what one would do for a bottle-necked case. Liners can be purchased with the chamber already cut, but these are significantly more expensive.

Basically I drill a 3/8 inch hole in the block of metal that will become the barrel and epoxy the liner in place with JB-Weld or use low-temperature silver-solder. I will shortly be doing a project with a .357" liner with a .44" outside diameter. I'll ream a chamber for .38 Special, and that will have a significant amount of metal supporting it.
 
Mike T, Have you ever reamed a worn barrel? I had Oyster Bay Machine ream out a 7.62 C96 Mauser. They used cryogenics to install a 9X19 liner. It fits so well it is impossible to see. IMG_0292.JPG It is the C96 upper left. Good luck with your new project.:)
 
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