223/5.56: Federal, Lake City, XMs, M885s, Not for Duty Use, etc, so confused?

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gfanikf

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Since I'm planning to do an AR build I figure it might not be a bad idea to start buying 223/5.56 here and there so when the rifle is completed I won't be at the mercy of current ammo prices and/or the election is heating up people acting stupid and buying up goofy amounts like in 2008. Mostly I just, like the AR build itself, want to spread the cost around so it will have minimal impact on soon to be expanding family. So in short grab a mag and ammo here and there. The only problem is well, I have no clue what ammo to get. I understand the basic .223 and 5.56 difference, but not any of the finer distinctions. Heck, I think the SGAMMO 223/5.56 page kind of explains the problem quite well. Can anyone explain the differences between the various ammo types? Truthfully I mostly just want target ammo, but I'd also like a little personal defense ammo. I just have no clue what is good and what is junk.
 
FMJ's - full metal jacket are a staple for Nato, they are ok to plink/practice with and yes even take down bad guy's. They will however go through targets and personnel the same, of course unless deflecting objects could allow it to turn into shrapnel with effect. But the the ammo Hornadys tap round is designed to have less go through and shrapnel rapidly inflecting more soft tissue damage. You will here many other pro's and con's to different rounds then you will be able to make your choice.
 
pretty much everybody has different requirements, so here are some basics to consider:

twist of your barrel (pick a bullet weight appropriate to the twist)

what type of range (indoor often don't allow steel core, tracer, etc, may need "green" lead-free ammo)

do you need waterproof ammo? some ammo has sealant around neck and primer

do you want to reload it? some ammo is non-reloadable, either steel case or berdan primed

do you want a plinker or super-reliable?

how much penetration do you need?

do you care about terminal ballistics or just punching paper? maybe look at hunting bullets if your targets are too far away for reliable fragmentation of FMJ


for my own use, i've found prvi m193 to be more than adequate as it is made to mil spec (full power, with known terminal ballistics) even though it's not the most accurate stuff. it is sealed, which has come in handy a number of times. and it's fairly cost effective, at around $300/k shipped at the moment

i stay away from anything with an "x" in front of it, or anything underpowered (wolf, WWB, etc) but if your gun likes that stuff, then go for it
 
pretty much everybody has different requirements, so here are some basics to consider:
Thanks, I'll keep these in mind. Perhaps a little more info on my end might help.

twist of your barrel (pick a bullet weight appropriate to the twist)
I'm still designing the build, with the only thing locked is that it will be a PSA lower receiver.

what type of range (indoor often don't allow steel core, tracer, etc, may need "green" lead-free ammo)
Mine is an indoor one, and I just checked and they said the only restriction is no green tip or penatrators (well and no tracers...I had to at least see lol). There is an outdoor range near me, and according to their website they prohibit "Armor Piercing Ammo."

do you need waterproof ammo? some ammo has sealant around neck and primer
Based on where I live, while flooding does occur, it shouldn't be an issue.

do you want to reload it? some ammo is non-reloadable, either steel case or berdan primed
I do want to reload, but not till I move and have a basement/garage to work. So for right now, either is find (I can always collect the brass if I'm shooting brass and just store it)

do you want a plinker or super-reliable?
Well I want something that will give me a generally idea of my accuracy with the weapon, but it doesn't have to be match ammo. So target/plinking and some for self defense, not that much as my shotgun and .45 are my SD/HD mainstays.

how much penetration do you need?
Since I live in an apartment with people to the left and above, for a SD/HD situation, very little. For target/plinking, it's not a concern (besides the green tip issue), one way or the other.

do you care about terminal ballistics or just punching paper? maybe look at hunting bullets if your targets are too far away for reliable fragmentation of FMJ
In PA IIRC you can't hunt with an AR, so Punching paper. One again factoring in a limited amount for SD/HD


i stay away from anything with an "x" in front of it, or anything underpowered (wolf, WWB, etc) but if your gun likes that stuff, then go for it
I'll keep that in mind. I have to be honest I often shoot steel as it's a lot cheaper (for 45 acp at least), but if I can get brass at a good deal I'll take brass.

for my own use, i've found prvi m193 to be more than adequate as it is made to mil spec (full power, with known terminal ballistics) even though it's not the most accurate stuff. it is sealed, which has come in handy a number of times. and it's fairly cost effective, at around $300/k shipped at the moment
Thanks!
 
for my own use, i've found prvi m193 to be more than adequate as it is made to mil spec (full power, with known terminal ballistics) even though it's not the most accurate stuff. it is sealed, which has come in handy a number of times. and it's fairly cost effective, at around $300/k shipped at the moment

OOOOHHH, where do you get this? I'd like to by some.
 
One plus is since it's rifle ammo, you don't need that NJ Ammo/Gun ID Purchase...whatever nonsense...(which he said I needed even being from from PA) and want to do a local pickup (which can save you a little on ammo prices). That said I've heard some odd stories about him, mostly about an SKS and occasionally being weird on swapping back mistake shipments. How's ordering from him been for you?
 
no drama so far. you can also get it for about the same price from ammunitiontogo and wideners
 
Can anyone explain what the difference is between "duty use" & "not for duty use"?
"Not for duty use" is usually a designation applied to ammo made for a government contract that failed to meet some contract specification and was diverted to commercial sale. It could be a velocity, consistency, accuracy, or other standard. There really isn't any way to tell without getting some and testing it. All that you know for sure is that it meets pressure standards or the manufacturer wouldn't release it.
 
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