.223 Brass lube and Cleaning

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stodd

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Hello Everyone,

I've been playing around with .223 brass and seem to be having a hard time getting a good method down for lubing, resizing, and cleaning off the lube. I was thinking about just lubing up the brass, resizing it, and then putting it into the tumbler. Dunno if that is bad or good for the dies if I don't clean the brass first.

Anyone has suggestions on how you do it that works good for you?
Thank you.
Stodd
 
Lube it
Size it
Load it
.....
Shoot it







Unless you've slathered the case in a 1/4" of 10-year old axle grease, you're actually doing yourself & your brass a favor w/ that residual lube
 
I have never cleaned cases before resizing them.

For many years, I removed lube and cleaned cases after resizing them using walnut media in a tumbler. Two or three years ago, I started cleaning cases in stainless steel media and will never go back to the old way.
 
Normally when I size rifle I take them out of the tumbler, lube, size, and wipe off with a damp towel. Usually for rifle I do less than 50 cases at a time. For .223 I usually process a couple hundred at a minimum I just throw back in the tumbler for a couple minutes after sizing.

Jeff
 
I have been tumbling just long enough to clean the outside (wet tumble, w/o the pins), then lube, resize, then back into the wet tumbler, with pins, for the normal time. After the first pass in the tumbler, I will try to get as much water off of them with the media separator, but I don't always let them dry completely before I lube and resize. The main thing before resizing is to make sure all the dirt/grit is gone before running them into the resizer.
 
Tumble

Lube/size.

Tumble. (Separate corn cob with no polish.)

Trim/deburr/chamfer.

Hand prime.

Load.
 
Lube it
Size it
Load it
.....
Shoot it






Unless you've slathered the case in a 1/4" of 10-year old axle grease, you're actually doing yourself & your brass a favor w/ that residual lube
this is what i do if you want after you load put back in tumbler for a few minutes to remove the lube
 
For those that remove the lube by dry tumbling, does the media ever "fill up" with lube? Seems to me that it would. I wet tumble, so any lube that is removed is flushed.
 
Tumble

Lube/size.

Tumble. (Separate corn cob with no polish.)

Trim/deburr/chamfer.

Hand prime.

Load.

This is how I currently do it.
Here's a recent thread that also discussed it
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...get-lube-off-your-cases.827569/#post-10664751

I'm thinking of ways to reload 223 more efficiently too. I'm thinking of getting a lube die and a Rcbs xdie to control growth.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/more-efficient-223-reloading.827061/
 
For those that remove the lube by dry tumbling, does the media ever "fill up" with lube? Seems to me that it would. I wet tumble, so any lube that is removed is flushed.
I use the corn cob bedding from the pet shop just for this operation change it out as needed can't tell you how many pcs or how often to change last a long time for me
 
Personally,

1. Tumble
2. Lube, Size, Deprime
3. Prime
4. Complete Load
5. Tumble finished Product to remove remaining excess Lube. I just started this based on a Post right here, and am completely impressed.
6. Place in container with Load Data on 3x5 card
7. Place Items back where they belong (Dies, Powder, Scales, Bullets, anything that needs putting up).

Hope this helps, just my $0.02
Dan
 
1. De-prime
2. Wet Tumble
3. Lube (Lanolin & Alcohol)
4. Size
5. Trim
6. Run a paper towel through the lot to remove most of the lube
7. Load

It may not be right, but that is how I do it. I do wonder if the lube keeps the case from sticking to the chamber wall properly. There is still a hint of lube on the case after it has been fired.
 
I have been using hornady one shot spray lube on 223 for years and recently transitioned to using it for everything after figuring out how to make it work. Brass needs to be tumbled and clean first, fouling residue on the outside of the case makes it not work. Put about 50-100 cases in a 1 gallon ice cream pail and shake them as you spray for about 2 or 3 seconds, then continue shaking for 10 seconds so that the brass rubs against each other and evenly distributes the lube. You will find that you only need to use about 1/2 to 1/3rd as much as if you sprayed them in a loading block. When the proper amount is used after a day the one shot will have dried up and you can't feel it on the brass anymore. After refining this technique I now use one shot on everything I load from 223 to 30-06 and 45/70 and I use very very little with no sticky cases.
 
stodd wrote:
...hard time getting a good method down for lubing, resizing, and cleaning off the lube.

I use Hornady Unique. You apply it with your fingers. It takes so little that you will have to practice not over-lubricating your cases. I put some Unique on the tip of the index finger, middle finger and thumb of my right hand. I then wait a few minutes because some of it will be absorbed by your pores (don't worry, it's principal ingredient is beef fat) add a little more and then lightly draw your fingers over the body of the case.

I then size the brass.

To remove the lubricant, I tumble the brass in untreated walnut media. The lubricant won't "harm" the media, but in time the lubricant will fill the pores in the media so it will gradually lose effectiveness. I don't consider this a problem because walnut media costs about $1 a pound, so throwing out 3 or 4 pounds of media every three or four months isn't an expense that is going to break the bank.
 
I really like the Franford/Dillon Lanolin and alcohol lube. (some people mix this combo themselves)
No stuck cases so far.
Dump brass in plastic tube, spray shake around a bit, let dry.
Size, trim (if necessary), chamfer, deburr into tumble again, then load.

If the brass is dirty (mud/sand type dirty, not dirty from being shot) I will tumble first.
 
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I don't make an effort anymore to remove the case lube on most cases - I usually use Imperial (now Redding) sizing wax very sparingly and I used to remove it with a rag or dish towel, but gave up on it as it just didn't seem necessary. Amount of lube used is very minimal, by the time they are loaded up I coulnd't tell the difference between those I wiped off and those I didn't. I do like to tumble brass before sizing to help keep the die clean. YMMV of course
 
I tumble clean before sizing if your cases are not clean you run the chance of ruining your dies.I messed up a carbide 45acp die by not cleaning brass frist,had some sand or something on the brass and it scratched the die and every piece of brass would get bad scratches on it after that.
Lube with lanolin and alcohol
Resize,trim,deburr, and any other brass prep
Tumble for a short time to remove lube
Clean primer pockets
Load
 
I use a method like toprudder, also use wet method and steel pins.

1hour in tumbler, with Wash and wax, no pins.

Dry, swage (if nesscessary).

Neck size w/bushing die.

Full length size w/body die. Lube is very small amount of Imperial.

Trim.
Full 3 hours in tumbler w/ lemishine, W&W, and pins. Dry.
Charge, seat, shoot.

Lots of measuring in between.

Russellc
 
I think everyone has their own system and series of steps. Since I start with relatively clean brass and keep my dies clean I size, trim, clean and polish and then load. While there are times I deviate that is about how I do it.

Ron
 
Yup. I just can't bring myself to put nasty brass in my dies! If it's new or clean, imperial, size and go. With .223, I like to final inspection and wipe off with paper towel.

Russellc
 
For rifle cases...

If the cases have been rolling in the dirt, I clean them first, then lube/size/tumble again.

If the cases have not hit the ground after firing, I skip the first cleaning step.

You really do not want to scratch your steel rifle resizing dies.
 
Yes, it seems each of us do things a little differently, and most likely most if not all of the ways are "good". Here is a list of what I do with .223 brass cases I pick up, prior to reloading them:

1) Inspect (and toss if I don't like the appearance)
2) De-cap primers
3) Pocket swage (if it's a case I have not processed before)
4) Wet tumble 1/2 hour with SS pins, detergent, and Lemishine
5) Toss liquid and re-tumble an hour or longer with SS pins, detergent, and Lemishine
6) Rinse and dry
7) Lube cases (with Imperial sizing die wax)
8) Full-length resize cases
9) Wipe lube off cases
10) Case gauge check (re-work/toss if needed)
11) Length trim (if needed)
12) Neck chamfer/ream (if needed, but especially if necks were trimmed)
13) Wet tumble 1/2 hour with detergent, and Lemishine
14) Rinse and dry

My way takes longer to do, but I am into hand loading because I enjoy doing it, not to save time or money.
 
I process brass very infrequently, about 2-3 times a year and normally do a 5gal bucket full at a time. Once in my rotation the batches are still around 2-3gal. Since this is an infrequent process, the extra hassle described below is bearable.

I do .223, 300BLK and 9mm. I will not use 300BLK range pickup, too many headspace issues.

0. Inspect and sort into batches (buckets). Usually as soon as I get back from the range. Range brass: FC+LC with intact crimps only, will take PMC as a one use disposable. My brass is marked to indicate number of firings. All other rifle brass is recycled. 9mm is always considered range brass.​

For each batch:
1. Wash. Franklin media separator, some buckets and a plastic table in the workshop shower. Wash by tumbling in just about any liquid detergent and rinse. Additional Lemishine wash and rinse for range brass. Tumble out as much of the water as possible. Several cycles of this will be needed to get through 5gal of brass.​

2. Dry in heated tray. Several cycles to get through all the brass.​

3. Lube (16:1 lanolin) by spraying brass in another tray and mixing with fingers. Allow to dry. Helps if brass is still warm from drying or heated a bit (heat gun).​

4. Size and de-prime.​

5. Wash the brass again as above to remove most of the lube. Keeps the tumbling media and my hands cleaner. Also just makes the brass easier to hold on to for the next steps.​

6. Remove crimps if processing FC+LC .223 range brass.​

7. Trim. (.223 + BLK)​

8. Tumble in corn cob with NuFinish and used dryer sheet strips for an hour or two. In addition to polishing this removes the brass bits from trimming and crimp removal.​

9. Put in smaller buckets and mark as to type and number of firings. I now have brass for many months.​

Obviously this process progresses as time permits over several days.
 
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