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25 cent trigger job on Glocks...
- Thread starter SomeKid
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) to this threadOne thing stuck out at me.
That's really not exactly true. A stock trigger gives you something like 3/8" of takeup, at about 3 pounds, then a 1/8", 6 pound break. A 3.5# connector makes it more like 5/16" takeup, same weight, and a 3/16", 4.5 pound break.
You'd have to be trying to stage the trigger to have any kind of "pull a little more and it fires" thing, and since the 3.5# connector increases the length of the break (simple physics, you don't get something for nothing without changing spring weights), there's probably not that much of a difference at all.
Someone who's dumb enough to try and keep their finger on the second stage, in a high stress situation, ranks right up there with someone who tries to keep a revolver hammer cocked back by holding the trigger almost all the way.
As a marksmanship technique, when you're already committed to firing, that's probably okay. But you shouldn't run around with your finger on a Glock's trigger, pulled to the break (or on the trigger at all) any more than you should run around with a revolver's trigger "staged."
One problem with the Glock pistol is that once you touch the trigger, additional pressure will cause it to go "bang!" This is both good and bad.
That's really not exactly true. A stock trigger gives you something like 3/8" of takeup, at about 3 pounds, then a 1/8", 6 pound break. A 3.5# connector makes it more like 5/16" takeup, same weight, and a 3/16", 4.5 pound break.
You'd have to be trying to stage the trigger to have any kind of "pull a little more and it fires" thing, and since the 3.5# connector increases the length of the break (simple physics, you don't get something for nothing without changing spring weights), there's probably not that much of a difference at all.
Someone who's dumb enough to try and keep their finger on the second stage, in a high stress situation, ranks right up there with someone who tries to keep a revolver hammer cocked back by holding the trigger almost all the way.
As a marksmanship technique, when you're already committed to firing, that's probably okay. But you shouldn't run around with your finger on a Glock's trigger, pulled to the break (or on the trigger at all) any more than you should run around with a revolver's trigger "staged."
To re-resurrect a twice-dead thread, I just did this on my 19. I'm not sure if I notice a difference when dry-firing, we'll see tomorrow at the range.
One addition (I emailed the page owner as well)
When re-assembling the firing-pin spring It is MUCH easier to use one of your punches in a vice as a support for the firing pin instead of toilet paper as suggested, the plastic sleeve simply slips over the punch and you can compress the spring against the stability of the vice. The spring can be held with one hand and the catches easily installed with the other.
Just my 25 cents.
One addition (I emailed the page owner as well)
When re-assembling the firing-pin spring It is MUCH easier to use one of your punches in a vice as a support for the firing pin instead of toilet paper as suggested, the plastic sleeve simply slips over the punch and you can compress the spring against the stability of the vice. The spring can be held with one hand and the catches easily installed with the other.
Just my 25 cents.
JImbothefiveth
Member
I thought glock's lightest was 4.5 pounds. And on a g35, the whole trigger pull felt lighter than a regular glock, so either it was the disconnector or they have some other lighter springs
When re-assembling the firing-pin spring It is MUCH easier to use one of your punches in a vice as a support for the firing pin instead of toilet paper as suggested, the plastic sleeve simply slips over the punch and you can compress the spring against the stability of the vice. The spring can be held with one hand and the catches easily installed with the other.
I use the plate that slides over the back of the slide. It's the perfect thickness to prop up the pin if you're just standing the housing up on a table.
-----------
I thought glock's lightest was 4.5 pounds.
It's the disconnector. Precise pull weight depends on your trigger geometries (Glock has like 3 different suppliers, who make parts slightly different), but it's usually 3.5 to 4.5 pounds with the "light" connector.
nyresq
Member
I saw this thread and as I just bought a G35 I figured I'd give it a try. from the factory the G35 has the 3.5# connector.
I went to the range and put 100 rounds down range to get a few break in rounds on the frame and slide.
With that done, I detail stripped the entire gun and cleaned everything up making sure to get all the copper grease off. Using some flitz polish I touched up the contact surfaces to a mirror shine. I lubed the gun and re assembled and I will say the trigger is noticeably smoother. same pull weight (on an RCBS pull scale it was 4.4# same as before) but much smoother pull and "feels" lighter.
I would not hesitate to carry this glock with this trigger for duty. The pull is still long and smooth with a pull weight of over 4#. I can be in total control with a trigger pull like that.
I went to the range and put 100 rounds down range to get a few break in rounds on the frame and slide.
With that done, I detail stripped the entire gun and cleaned everything up making sure to get all the copper grease off. Using some flitz polish I touched up the contact surfaces to a mirror shine. I lubed the gun and re assembled and I will say the trigger is noticeably smoother. same pull weight (on an RCBS pull scale it was 4.4# same as before) but much smoother pull and "feels" lighter.
I would not hesitate to carry this glock with this trigger for duty. The pull is still long and smooth with a pull weight of over 4#. I can be in total control with a trigger pull like that.
Dear friends...
None of this has anything to do with (a) what feels safe to you or (b) pull weights on other guns. After owning a G-34, I decided to work on my new G-26: the typical polish job, and tossed in a 3.5 lb connector: result a nice smooth pull of about 4.8 lbs. Actually my stock polished 34 is noticeably better (admittedly have a LOT more ammo having gone through it).
And for me, I just wanted BOTH my Glocks - the 34 and the 26 - to pull the same, for continuities sake. But after MUCH thought I'm gonna take the 26 back to stock (5 lb/5lb)) or maybe the much discussed NY#1/3.5. After a really good polish job I can get the NY#1/3.5 to about 7.6 lbs (middle), 5.7 lb tip). Although I've not tested the stock G-26, I have little doubt it's pushing 6 lb (middle) or bit more.
None of these pulls are outrageous. But the difference comes after you shoot someone: regardless of how justified, instead of explaining why you felt your life was in imminent danger, you'll be grilled for hours about how and why you decided to be an amateur gunsmith and lower your pull weight BELOW STOCK, and use a 3.5 connector that Glock DOESN'T RECOMMEND.
It's not about right or sensible, it's all about the prosecutor or civil attorney trying to eat your shorts. And they are very, very good at it. With any lightening mods you start out behind the eight ball, and got a lotta splainin to do.
Not a pretty place to be.
It is a sad case that you - the real victim - will be made the "hair-trigger", "gun modifying", vicious "hollow point" using gun nut who couldn't wait to off the BG, or whose tinkered gun went off when it shouldn't have.
You don't need that. What changed my mind?
You just have to read the tons of material about what really happens to you and even well intentioned LEO's in court. And many have gone to jail, lost huge civil actions or had to pay many, many extra thousands of dollars to hire an expert witness to overcome the BS case against you.
It's the way its. So please, don't make the mistake of being logical, and believing that this could not happen to you. Read some of the many good books about concealed carry and SD and realize what really happens after a good shooting...
***********
ps. another thought: the stock Glock, or even a NY#1/3.5 is not all that hard to shoot, esp. at short range. You may give up only a bit of accuracy for $100,000 or legal fees - and the BG will still be dead.
None of this has anything to do with (a) what feels safe to you or (b) pull weights on other guns. After owning a G-34, I decided to work on my new G-26: the typical polish job, and tossed in a 3.5 lb connector: result a nice smooth pull of about 4.8 lbs. Actually my stock polished 34 is noticeably better (admittedly have a LOT more ammo having gone through it).
And for me, I just wanted BOTH my Glocks - the 34 and the 26 - to pull the same, for continuities sake. But after MUCH thought I'm gonna take the 26 back to stock (5 lb/5lb)) or maybe the much discussed NY#1/3.5. After a really good polish job I can get the NY#1/3.5 to about 7.6 lbs (middle), 5.7 lb tip). Although I've not tested the stock G-26, I have little doubt it's pushing 6 lb (middle) or bit more.
None of these pulls are outrageous. But the difference comes after you shoot someone: regardless of how justified, instead of explaining why you felt your life was in imminent danger, you'll be grilled for hours about how and why you decided to be an amateur gunsmith and lower your pull weight BELOW STOCK, and use a 3.5 connector that Glock DOESN'T RECOMMEND.
It's not about right or sensible, it's all about the prosecutor or civil attorney trying to eat your shorts. And they are very, very good at it. With any lightening mods you start out behind the eight ball, and got a lotta splainin to do.
Not a pretty place to be.
It is a sad case that you - the real victim - will be made the "hair-trigger", "gun modifying", vicious "hollow point" using gun nut who couldn't wait to off the BG, or whose tinkered gun went off when it shouldn't have.
You don't need that. What changed my mind?
You just have to read the tons of material about what really happens to you and even well intentioned LEO's in court. And many have gone to jail, lost huge civil actions or had to pay many, many extra thousands of dollars to hire an expert witness to overcome the BS case against you.
It's the way its. So please, don't make the mistake of being logical, and believing that this could not happen to you. Read some of the many good books about concealed carry and SD and realize what really happens after a good shooting...
***********
ps. another thought: the stock Glock, or even a NY#1/3.5 is not all that hard to shoot, esp. at short range. You may give up only a bit of accuracy for $100,000 or legal fees - and the BG will still be dead.
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SparxSP
Member
While I don't disagree entirely, I'd bet real money that there are tons of G34/35 "Tactical Practicals" out there in the hands of LEOs, with the stock 3.5 connectors, and an added NY1 spring. I have experimented a LOT, with most every conceiveable combination of options, and this is the one that I most often come back to. It is slightly heavier than "stock" config on all but the 17L/24/34/35s, but the break is vastly improved and, for my money and any potential future that I could have in front of a jury, feel that this combo lessens the chance of extra rounds fired while under the pressure of fighting for one's life. And, while there are certainly bulldog prosecutors out there as you describe, there are also gun owning & knowledgeable defense attorneys that could equally defend my choice of modified for safety sidearm.
Respectfully, Sparks
Respectfully, Sparks
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nyresq
Member
The Shoot team for the DOJ (the lawyers who you speak to when you fire your weapon in the line of duty) have a saying they use every time we have legal training...
YOU can make a good shoot turn bad by doing or saying the wrong thing after its over, but a bad shoot will always be bad no matter what you did before during or after...
So whatever the trigger pull is, or who made it that way, if you were within the scope of the law to have fired, then you are legal... If you shouldn't have fired anyway, then it doesnt matter what you were firing. cause whether it was a cannon with a 6' fuse or it was a IPSC open class race gun, your still going to be tried for murder...
And as to the civil case, no matter what you are going to be sued. even if the bad guy had a functional machine gun and fired 50 rounds at you first and its all on video, the family is going to sue.
Use what you can shoot well so you dont miss, train to follow the rule about the booger hook on the bang switch and know the law. Thats the best defense on how to stay out of court, civilian or LEO, follow those three things and always think about them.
YOU can make a good shoot turn bad by doing or saying the wrong thing after its over, but a bad shoot will always be bad no matter what you did before during or after...
So whatever the trigger pull is, or who made it that way, if you were within the scope of the law to have fired, then you are legal... If you shouldn't have fired anyway, then it doesnt matter what you were firing. cause whether it was a cannon with a 6' fuse or it was a IPSC open class race gun, your still going to be tried for murder...
And as to the civil case, no matter what you are going to be sued. even if the bad guy had a functional machine gun and fired 50 rounds at you first and its all on video, the family is going to sue.
Use what you can shoot well so you dont miss, train to follow the rule about the booger hook on the bang switch and know the law. Thats the best defense on how to stay out of court, civilian or LEO, follow those three things and always think about them.
SparxSP
Member
Well said.....
And as to the civil case, no matter what you are going to be sued
I hadn't considered it to be a 100% likelihood, but I don't doubt what you're saying. It's very disconcerting though.
SparxSP
Member
These days, I DO consider it near 100% likelihood; Sad, but true....
InfidelSnype
Member
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- Jun 26, 2011
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The bottom line that, so far, everyone here has missed: a gun is an inanimate object. No gun, no matter how light the trigger pull, can go off without the trigger being pulled. There is no such thing as an unsafe gun, only an unsafe shooter!
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