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3.5 Connector review (Glock)

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by Carbon_15, May 28, 2006.

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  1. Carbon_15

    Carbon_15 Member

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    Can someone review the various 3.5 connectors? What is the funtional difference between the Ghost the Ghost Rocket, Shearer and the Lone Wolf?
    I will be installing it in a G19 that is used for IDPA and target shooting mostly, and carried once in a while.
    Jason
     
  2. wally

    wally Member

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    To me, a Glock with a 3.5lb connector is a lot like a revolver with the hammer cocked or a 1911 with the safety off. IMHO trigger is too light for carry once you add this. I couldn't hit for squat with either of my Glocks (17 & 21) until I discovered these, but they are relagated to be strictly range guns because of this.

    I think the fact that Glock doesn't sell guns with one installed except for their "target" model (17L?) says a lot.

    For my shooting pleasure the 3.5lb connector made a world of difference, but Glocks remain my least favorite.

    --wally.
     
  3. JohnKSa

    JohnKSa Member

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    I tend to agree with Wally that the 3.5lb connector may be a bit light for everyday carry.

    To answer your question (in a roundabout way)...

    I've heard of issues with 3.5lb aftermarket connectors. I've never heard of any issues with Glock 3.5lb connectors.
     
  4. 444

    444 Member

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    Funny you mention this.
    I just rebuilt my Glock 17 about 20 minutes ago and put in a Shearer 3.5 lb. connector.
    I don't know of any difference between the various brands of 3.5 lb. connectors. I would imagine they are all the same thing. I wanted to order a Glock factory connector but Lone Wolf was out. They had the Shearer in stock, so that is what I ordered. I have played with the Glock factory connectors before and I couldn't see any difference between the Shearer and the Glock factory although I admit that I wasn't holding them side by side for a comparison.


    FWIW, I took a Glock Armors class a month or so ago. So, with my new found knowlege, I replaced all the parts on my first generation Glock 17 with parts that had been upgraded over the years (parts which had been changed to later designs by the factory). I actually screwed my gun up during the class by bending the trigger bar. So, I was replacing that anyway and just decided to replace everything with the latest revision. I am sure there will be no difference in performance (because I replaced these parts but, what the hell ? I wanted to do something with the stuff I learned in the class) other than the 3.5 lb connector which feels much better than the original. And yes, I am going to carry it. Again, FWIW, the class I took was NOT a Glock factory authorized class (which I consider to be a plus). They mentioned that there were different brands of parts such as connectors and the instructor didn't mention anything negative about these aftermarket parts. He didn't address them at all. There were other aftermarket parts that he specifically advised against but didn't say anything about the connectors. The connector is just a piece of thin metal with a few bends and cuts on it. The angle at the top determines the weight. I can't really see how this could be screwed up by an aftermarket company. But, I certainly don't have all the answers.
     
  5. Serendipity

    Serendipity member

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    The Ghost Rocket has an overtravel stop; is a little mushy. The Ghost is more like a "standard" 3.5# connector. The Glock factory 3.5# connector is a little mushy for my tastes. The Scherer connector or the Ghost Ultimate work best for me.

    Carrying a Glock with a 4.5#-5# trigger pull, which is what you get with the 3.5# connectors, isn't anything like carrying a 1911 cocked with the safety off, to me. I carry a Glock daily, equipped with a 3.5# connector.
     
  6. 444

    444 Member

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    I agree.
    All the same exact Glock safety features are present no matter what connector is there. If you trust them with a five pound connector, then you can trust the same safety features with a 3.5 pound connector.
    I guess maybe you are saying that if you are holding someone at gunpoint, with your finger on the trigger, then it would be easier to have an AD due to the decreased trigger pull weight similar to having a 1911 pointed at someone with the safety off and your finger on the trigger. In that case, I partially agree with you, but all my 1911 triggers are heavier than 3.5 pounds.:eek: If this is where you are going, this is a rule #3 violation.
    The only safety you can really trust is the one between your ears.
    If you don't intend to fire the gun right at that exact moment, then the finger comes off the trigger and is indexed on the side of the frame . That is rule #3: Your finger is off the trigger unless the sights are on the target.
     
  7. JohnKSa

    JohnKSa Member

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    I have seen at least one person claim that an aftermarket connector (Ghost) caused his Glock to go full-auto unpredictably.
     
  8. Josh Aston

    Josh Aston Member

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    The ghost rocket 3.5 that I tried didn't work at all. The trigger bottomed out on the frame before the striker had been released.
     
  9. 444

    444 Member

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    Anyone know enough about Glocks to know if it would be possible to have one go full auto from the trigger connector ?
    I have a vague idea how these full auto Glock conversions work and it has nothing to do with the trigger parts, but this little one day class certainly didn't make me any kind of authority on Glocks. I am lucky to know how to load one.
     
  10. 10-Ring

    10-Ring Member

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    I installed the 3.5 connector on my 23 & 21...discovered that although the trigger lightened up, they both became mushy...now, on my 19, I've kept things completely stock and although it's not as nice as the trigger on my Colt, it's far nicer & more predictable w/ the standard connector.
     
  11. 444

    444 Member

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    I have to say that this Scherer connector I put in today feels much better in every way than the stock 5 lb connector. It isn't just weight, the trigger is much more crisp. I have been dry firing this gun quite a bit lately and am very familiar with the trigger.
    When I was in that armors class, they had all the various trigger connectors and we all tried them in our guns. I also felt that most of them gave the trigger a mushy feeling. But, this Scherer doesn't, on my gun. YMMV
     
  12. JohnKSa

    JohnKSa Member

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    444,

    As I recall, the person said that he thought his trigger bar seemed to be shorter than normal. While it worked fine with the factory connector, it would occasionally go full-auto with the aftermarket connector.

    I can see how a too-short trigger bar could cause some funny problems, but I don't understand what would push the trigger bar/sear down to fire the second shot without the trigger going forward far enough to reset on the connector.

    Then again, I don't know how the aftermarket connector differed from the stock part, so it's hard to analyze the situation in detail.
     
  13. Chris Rhines

    Chris Rhines Member

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    It is, in theory, possible. The angle at the top of the connector, combined with the connector height, determine the amount of engagement between the striker and the cruciform. If there's not enough engagement, the striker can slip off the cruciform as the slide closes. Unlikely, yes. Impossible, no.

    Glock connectors are generally closer to blueprint spec than the aftermarket ones.

    This is complete and utter nonsense, and I wish people would quit posting it. A Glock pistol with the 3.5# connector and otherwise stock, will have a trigger pull weight of about 6.0 pounds and a trigger travel length of about 0.5". I've measured this myself on over a dozen different Glock pistols. That is not in any way, shape, or form too light for carry.

    My competition Glock 35 has been worked over by Charlie Vanek, and the trigger releases at an honest-to-Kismet 1.75 pounds. That's about the limit of what you can do with a Glock trigger.

    My carry gun has a standard 5# connector and an extra-heavy trigger spring - it breaks at about six pounds. Good enough.

    - Chris
     
  14. DHart

    DHart Member

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    Chris is right.... the 3.5 # connector give you a net of about a 5# trigger pull... hardly "too light". Of course you've got to exercise good trigger control no matter what the trigger pull weight. My 29 has the LoneWolf 3.5# connector and the Ultimate trigger stop and I'm thrilled with it. Add a KKM barrel for full chamber support (also accurate and stone reliable!) and my Glock 29 is sweeeeet! As much of a 1911 lover as I am, my Glock 29 gets more carry duty than any of my other guns. Eleven rounds of 10mm on tap is comforting.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. HSMITH

    HSMITH Member

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    I agree 100% with Chris, and will add this. Full auto Glocks (unexpected full auto anyway) in my experience have been from spring mismatch combined with heavy handed polishing on the striker, connector and cruciform. Glocks need balanced spring combinations and a lot of guys out there are changing springs not knowing the consequences or how to keep them in balance.
     
  16. Soap

    Soap Member

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    Chris,

    I'm thinking about putting a 3.5# on my carry G19, but I'm confused. You said that the 3.5# equates to a 6 pound pull weight, but later you said that the 5# also equates to a 6 pound pull. I'm assuming that was a typo. Thanks for your help brother!
     
  17. Joe D

    Joe D Member

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    Actually one can get the pull lower than 1.75 lbs. I have gotten a Glock trigger as low as 1 lb. If you will look over at the Glock Talk Forum you will find where I tested all of the aftermarket 3.5 connectors along with the 3.5 Glock.
     
  18. HSMITH

    HSMITH Member

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    Daniel, not Chris but here is what I have seen in my 17/22/19/23 guns....

    5 pound stock connector and all factory stock everything else with a light polish makes for a pull between 5.5 and 7 pounds. Pretty crisp (for a Glock) and reliable no matter what.

    3.5 pound connector and all factory everything else with a light polish makes for a pull between 4.5 and 5.5 pounds. With a Glock connector it is pretty vague and mushy (opinion), Scherer is a little more solid feeling but still mushy to some extent (opinion). I have not tested a Ghost on my gun but I have shot a couple with the Ghost Rocket. Fitted well by someone that reads the directions and actually understands what they are doing it is about like the Scherer but with no overtravel. Fitted incorrectly it can feel like a stock Glock connector in the best case to being an unreliable POS on the other end. The Ghost Rocket doesn't 'drop in'. It needs to be fitted correctly.

    I am a Glock fan, but Glock triggers suck no matter what you do. You can alter the 'suckatational' factor with modifications and alter the crispness. You can get a pretty decent feeling trigger, in my opinion, between about 2 pounds and 9 pounds. But, they still suck compared to a hammer/sear type of pull when it is done right.

    WAAAAAYYYYYYY too much is made of trigger pull weight, feel, travel, overtravel, and all the rest. Proper fundamentals render it a VERY small part of the shootability of the gun provided the pull is smooth and not extremely heavy. Get the gritty inconsistent pull out of a gun, get the weight under about 7 pounds, and you aren't going to gain much if anything with all the trigger work money can buy. That money would be much better spent on ammo and instruction.

    Hope my opinionated post helps somewhat....
     
  19. RyanM

    RyanM Member

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    According to people on GT, Ghost connectors have absolutely no quality control at all (one guy measured several, and they were all off by quite a bit in critical dimensions), Scherers are more "crisp" but tend to snap in half sometimes, and Glock OEM ones are "mushy," but are the least problematic.

    In my gun, a 3.5# Glock connector on its own gives me a 4 pound takeup and 5 pound break, roughly. 3.5# connector with modified NY-1 trigger spring is a 5 pound takeup and 7 pound break. Still working on equalizing the two. Trying to get something like a DA revolver. An increased power striker spring seems to have helped increase the takeup more than the break.

    And there's absolutely no overtravel, because instead of messing with screws and pins and bars, I just took a dremel to the thingie that hits the connector on the trigger bar instead. Now the striker doesn't release until the trigger is back all the way. It also moves the break much further back. Now it's the last 1/8" of travel, just like an original 5# one, but lighter.

    Just what are "crisp" and "mushy" supposed to refer to anyway? Sharply defined transition between takeup and break? Trigger break? Salad? I've never understood what people were talking about with the "mushy" trigger.

    One of these days I'm going to get a Glock 36, put on a manual safety and aluminum trigger, and tweak the trigger until there's only 1/8" of travel with all safeties still functional, and a clean 5# break, just to drive the 1911 people nuts.
     
  20. Serendipity

    Serendipity member

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    Chris is right-on about the relationship between the cruciform/striker engagement and f.a. He's also right about the nonsense of comparing a cocked and not locked 1911 to a Glock with a 3.5# connector.
     
  21. Chris Rhines

    Chris Rhines Member

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    Dan,

    The extra-heavy trigger spring reduces the overall pull weight a little bit. I prefer this to the 3.5# connector, which not only feels mushy to me, but also lengthens the disconnect travel a little bit.

    You can do a ridiculous amount of tweaking and fiddling with the Glock trigger, 99% unnecessary. My advice, for a game gun, send it to Charlie. For a carry gun, leave it as stock as possible - a little polishing on the cruciform and connector and maybe a spring kit.

    - Chris
     
  22. DHart

    DHart Member

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    Anyone else here with the Lone Wolf Dist 3.5# connector? That's what I've got in my 29 and I'm very happy with it. To repeat for anyone who is still confused by the 3.5# connector... changing to this part does not give you a 3.5# pull, but it does lower the pull down from the stock 7# area to somewhere around 5#. Of course, other changes can reduce it farther if you really want to.

    Chris... speaking of spring kits... what's your preferred setup for changing springs in a Glock and what objective to you achieve with that?

    BTW... I did install Wolff's non-captive metal guide rod & 19# recoil spring... but that's the only spring that I've changed in the gun.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2006
  23. Chris Rhines

    Chris Rhines Member

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    DHart,

    I like a standard-weight striker spring for reliability with crappy ammo, an extra-power trigger spring to lighten the trigger pull a little, and ISMI magazine springs for feed reliability. I also remove any burrs from the connector and cruciform, and polish the firing pin block.

    I'm running a factory recoil spring and guide rod in my G19 right now, and an extended tungsten guide rod/15# ISMI recoil spring in my G35.

    - Chris
     
  24. DHart

    DHart Member

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    Thanks Chris.... I'll have to try the extra power trigger spring... and I still need to do some polishing on the internals...
     
  25. Soap

    Soap Member

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    Thanks for all of the help gentlemen!
     
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