Maverick223
Member
owen, while I agree, he did make a mistake, and should at least know the chambering of the firearm he is selling (but that too goes both ways).
.300 Win Ultra Mag question
- Thread starter mwurman
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yes and owen (and everyone for that matter), i do take responsibility upon myself for part of the error. I definitely should have been more alert to the fact there was a difference. I take this as a very fortunate learning experience for the future! I am very excited to own a rifle of this level, and i definitely understand now that it comes with quite a bit of responsibility on my part and vigilance. I appreciate the expertise that you all have and the advice! So I thank you for that!owen, while I agree, he did make a mistake, and should at least know the chambering of the firearm he is selling (but that too goes both ways).
WTBguns10kOK
member
This is why I hate magnums. Heard a story some time ago about a guy who went to sight in his .300 Win and bought .300 Wthby. Screwed the whole trip up. Just too easy, since we're all logically focused on numbers before letters.
It was a stupid mistake. IMO the store owes you an abject apology and a box of the right ammo.
Lesson for you: Always check carefully to make SURE that the writing on the barrel matches the writing on the ammo box exactly. I can think of half a dozen "300 Magnums" without trying and none of them interchange. Worse yet, some of the possible combinations will chamber and fire but it can be extremely dangerous to do so. You were lucky.
Yeah definitely know now! On the subject of reloading the 300 RUM, maybe i should start a new thread, but what would i need? Obviously primers, grain, the slug....not sure what machine i would need. Also, what kind of life expectancy can i get per shell? I hear some dont like to reload the ultra mag brass more than three times because of the power?
MtnCreek
Member
Go to the reloading section and read the sticky regarding equipment. Really good info.
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nastynatesfish
Member
im sure your gun will shoot better with the right ammo! i shoot a 7 mag and a 300 mag and done see the reason for the RUM in north or south america, hell even canada.
if your stuck on the 300 just get a 300 win mag. save the components. i think that RUM takes something like 105gr of powder instead of about 80 depending for the mag
if your stuck on the 300 just get a 300 win mag. save the components. i think that RUM takes something like 105gr of powder instead of about 80 depending for the mag
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MtnCreek
Member
Powder is the cheapest componiant in a reloaded cartrigde. Besides, the 300 RUM has a built in feature that prevents shooting too much ammo.
Maverick223
Member
Hehehe...yeah a shoulder...the shooters shoulder!
For handloading you first need a manual, Lyman's is the easiest to understand and has insightful general information about handloading in the front of the manual (get others later, as needed). Other necessary gear includes a press (RCBS RockChucker is a great starter press), powder measure/trickler/funnel, a good scale (don't buy a cheap digital scale as these are iffy at best whereas a cheap balance scale is usually decent and safe), calipers (for measuring OAL), dies (get a kit that includes a FL size/deprime & seater), and a shellholder for your cartridge. Components needed include brass (expect about 3 cycles from something grossly overbore like the RUMs), primers (lg. rifle: magnum size), powder (check your manual for recommendations, but I like Alliant RL-22, RL-25, & H-4831SC for similar cartridges), and bullets (165-180gr. would be a good start, with 178/208gr. Hornady A-Maxs performing well for me and affording superb accuracy as well as good terminal ballistics). Other handy items include a hand primer (my preferred method of priming), a neck-sizing die (distorts the brass less for better life), Lee factory crimp die (to prevent the bullet from un-seating during recoil), universal impact bullet puller, case cleaner/separator, and other accouterments. Not sure if you will get enough life out of your brass to require trimming, but either way that is an addition that can come later.
This kit, these dies, and this manual (not absolutely necessary, but highly recommended) is enough get you started. You may want to add this and this in the near future, as well as some of the aforementioned items on a as-needed basis.
Thanks alot for the information! I was also looking at Lee's stuff, which pretty much does the same thing. I think i have these right, but this is what i would need for primers, brass, bullets, and powder.Hehehe...yeah a shoulder...the shooters shoulder!
For handloading you first need a manual, Lyman's is the easiest to understand and has insightful general information about handloading in the front of the manual (get others later, as needed). Other necessary gear includes a press (RCBS RockChucker is a great starter press), powder measure/trickler/funnel, a good scale (don't buy a cheap digital scale as these are iffy at best whereas a cheap balance scale is usually decent and safe), calipers (for measuring OAL), dies (get a kit that includes a FL size/deprime & seater), and a shellholder for your cartridge. Components needed include brass (expect about 3 cycles from something grossly overbore like the RUMs), primers (lg. rifle: magnum size), powder (check your manual for recommendations, but I like Alliant RL-22, RL-25, & H-4831SC for similar cartridges), and bullets (165-180gr. would be a good start, with 178/208gr. Hornady A-Maxs performing well for me and affording superb accuracy as well as good terminal ballistics). Other handy items include a hand primer (my preferred method of priming), a neck-sizing die (distorts the brass less for better life), Lee factory crimp die (to prevent the bullet from un-seating during recoil), universal impact bullet puller, case cleaner/separator, and other accouterments. Not sure if you will get enough life out of your brass to require trimming, but either way that is an addition that can come later.
This kit, these dies, and this manual (not absolutely necessary, but highly recommended) is enough get you started. You may want to add this and this in the near future, as well as some of the aforementioned items on a as-needed basis.
Correct me if something isnt right or i would be better suited with another brand/type of any of those! Thanks!
yep, those cases are simply SCRAP! throw them in the garbage! did you buy the ammo at the same plce you bought the firearm? if so, that salesman should be TERMINATED A.S.A.P.! you were very lucky that nothing bad happened. and just fyi, that is a LOT of difference between fired, and unfired.
Maverick223
Member
The brass you linked to will work fine, as will the primers, the powder is acceptable as well (though you will use more weight for similar performance when compared to RL-22, RL-25, or H-4831SC), but you need to use .308cal. bullets like any of these (180gr. and greater are usually best for magnums, but they all have their uses). Additionally I would avoid Remington brass (Nosler and Federal are both much better and generally afford greater longevity) and to a lesser extent their primers and projectiles (Sierra and Hornady make great bullets for a fair price) as well.
Well, that could happen with cartridges that aren't magnums as well...
He could have bought .308 Marlin Express for a .308 Winchester chambered gun? Or .338 Marlin Express for a .338 Winchester Magnum?
shaggy430
Member
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- Nov 19, 2008
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I think it would be best if the OP got a little more experience under his belt before attempting reloading. Attention to detail is paramount with reloading and with powders such as H4350 and IMR4350, etc it easy to make a mistake if one is not observant or does not inform themselves. I would also suggest the state hunter safety class or a basic firearms safety class (see #5 of the 10 commandments of firearm safety.)
Also, I don't ever remember picking up a gun, much less one I about to shell out several hundred dollars for, without looking at the caliber stamp.
I'm not trying to be rude or condescending, but we are talking about a situation that could have been deadly. Adding an inexperienced reloader and a cartridge that holds up to 100 grains of powder may not be the best idea.
Also, I don't ever remember picking up a gun, much less one I about to shell out several hundred dollars for, without looking at the caliber stamp.
I'm not trying to be rude or condescending, but we are talking about a situation that could have been deadly. Adding an inexperienced reloader and a cartridge that holds up to 100 grains of powder may not be the best idea.
Durty
Member
I agree with Shaggy. Let's slow this whole thing waaaay dowwwwn. I do understand all about having a new toy to obsess over however, this equipment is made to kill and it does just that very well. First, if you intend on shooting that rifle at targets that are a long way off--400 yards or more--you will be disappointed. From that picture, you have purchased a sporter weight rifle. It is difficult enough to keep a light rifle like that steady on a buck at 200 yards, much less 400. It would require an incredible amount of practice to become efficient with that rifle at ranges past 300 yards. And let's be honest--practicing long range shooting with a sporter weight ultra mag is not reasonable. You will become a worse shooter way before you become a better shooter. You cannot discount a flinch. It's a bad habit that people develop from improperly shooting guns that are more than they can effectively handle and unfortunately, that rifle you bought is the perfect recipe for developing a flinch. If that store owner will let you return the gun or trade it in for a 308, 30-06, 260, 270, 280, 7mm-08, or anything along those lines--DO IT!
1stmarine
Member
STOP!!!!
take the whole thing back to the store and ask them to explain to you how they gave you the wrong ammo and why they didn't explain how the whole thing works.
You must just have ruined the potential of your barrel. It is hard to tell but I would not be surprised.
Then ask at your range for somebody to mentor you in some basic safety rules and shooting techniques.
Cheers,
E.
take the whole thing back to the store and ask them to explain to you how they gave you the wrong ammo and why they didn't explain how the whole thing works.
You must just have ruined the potential of your barrel. It is hard to tell but I would not be surprised.
Then ask at your range for somebody to mentor you in some basic safety rules and shooting techniques.
Cheers,
E.
shinz
Member
NOOOO, while I agree they're scrap they're also now an interesting oddity & a great talking point & if it wasn't such a hassle to export such stuff I'd put my hand up to have one if they're all like the pictures you put up. I'd be surprised if you don't find some willing takers for them.
Steve.
You are a lucky man thats for sure. As for the post condemming the 300 Ultra I would ignore them. It outruns the Weatherby and the Wincester doesnt use a belt and have you priced 300 Weatherby ammo ? IMO you have the best 300 magnum going. Recoil is managable and if your lazy sight it in with the 200 grain Partition Remington load and hunt anything you want.
Thanks for all the opinions on things....i respect them as such and take advice carefully. In the end I am going to keep the gun, and get something else as well. After all I got the thing for such a dirt cheap price that i really dont consider it all that much of a loss if i shoot it every so often.
As far as reloading, i have a friend here at work who hunts with a 300 Win Mag and a 300 RUM...and he's been reloading those shells for years. So I think he is a perfect resource. Im actually going over there tonight and we are going to make some, and do some training...pretty stoked!
As far as reloading, i have a friend here at work who hunts with a 300 Win Mag and a 300 RUM...and he's been reloading those shells for years. So I think he is a perfect resource. Im actually going over there tonight and we are going to make some, and do some training...pretty stoked!
Maverick223
Member
Now that, there, is a outstanding idea! As is getting a second rifle that is a bit more tame. Nothing wrong with the RUM, if you like it, but a general purpose rifle it's not.
Unfortunately I've given away all the old brass save for one i keep as a reminder of my mortality haha But here's some more comparison shots of the three together... left to right: .300 Win Mag, .300 Win Mag shell expanded, .300 Rem Ultra Mag.
Maverick223
Member
Thanks for sharing the photo...it makes for an interesting comparison. Definitely keep one as a reminder, and a conversation piece/lesson.
Good luck with the new rifle. I'd normally add: be safe, but I think you have that part down (now).
Good luck with the new rifle. I'd normally add: be safe, but I think you have that part down (now).
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
No, he didn't.
The only harm would have been if a case had let go and leaked white-hot gas into the action.
That would have distroyed the rifle, and possibly the shooter too.
Since the cases held, no harm was done.
The smaller case expanding in the larger chamber actually lowered the chamber pressure considerably over what it is with the correct cartridge.
It would be the same effect as shooting a reduced load in the .300 RUM pressure wise.
As long as one of the cases didn't let go, and all the bullets got out of the barrel, no harm was done to the rifle.
rc
Maverick223
Member
^ It probably didn't do the throat any favors, but I agree 10rnds. shouldn't make any discernible difference.
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