38 ammo not so cheap!?

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Is it really cost effective for me to start reloading? I want to but when I start looking for kits, books, powder ... it seems overwhelming and costly to me. I like to shoot but even the range prices are getting up in price.
9mm, 38/357, .45 are my main rounds, would these use different size primers if so even more cost. What would be the start up cost for reloading? Thanks
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Reloads, using your brass, costs about half of what the same factory ammo costs.
I started reloading, 38 Special, in 1961 because I couldn't afford to shoot factory ammo.
I bought something like this $33 dollar Lee hand tool and loaded many thousands of rounds until I wore it out.
It takes about 35 minutes to load a box of handgun ammo with this tool.
Reloading is nothing but a few simple mechanical steps that a 10 year old can quickly learn. There are standard bullet and powder loads. So it's all just doing the same mechanical operations over and over.
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At the other end of the cost/speed scale is the progressive press and equipment that loads a box of handgun ammo in less than 8-10 minutes. But takes up space and costs much of a thousand dollars
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This week in my spare time I loaded over a thousand rounds of .223 at a cost of $102/1,000. Yeah I'd say it's "cost effective".:)



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Reloads, using your brass, costs about half of what the same factory ammo costs.

.38 Special costs too much from the factory, but it's the reloader's dream cartridge. It's easy to reload it right, the brass lasts essentially forever, it doesn't need much powder, and hardcast lead bullets work great.
 
Up north .38 is a couple to 4 bucks over buying 9mm as well these days. We reflect the costs in the US where the ammo comes from.

Is reloading worth it? It depends on how much you shoot. If you only shoot up to a thousand rounds a year then likely no it's not worth the effort. Just get in on one of the online reloading deals as mentioned above.

If you are a keen sport shooter that goes through more than 2 thousand rounds a year of practicing and matches then yeah, it's well worth setting up for reloading. Especially if you have other calibers you enjoy as well. Then a reloading press and some dies set up in spare head plates to make it easy to switch is a no brainer. The Dhillon shown above is nice and it's one of the presses I have. But a Lee progressive can be had for a lot less. A hint though.... My reloading setup for .45ACP is a Lee progressive. I found that I had so many troubles getting the case feeder on my used setup to feed reliably that I took out the center twist shaft that does the indexing as well as the case feeder rod and did my indexing and case feeding manually. This actually proved to be far better overall than the auto indexing. I may put it in later and correct the bugs but likely not. The amount it slowed down the process was minimal and I have a lot more options with the manual feeding. Something to think about if you get a similar Lee package.

The stuff shows up used quite often. Keep an eye open and you will likely come across a loader setup in one of your calibers. Then just add a set of dies.

For dies buy new unless you can inspect the used ones. I've had two sets of bad used dies now. One had gouges in the insert which scored the casings and the other had a bent primer extractor shaft which I only found when it snapped the pin and bent the shaft. Now I only buy new dies with carbide inserts or all carbide.

Once you're set up and rolling you can reload around 350 to 400 rounds an hour. There's many claims of up to 500 to 600 but you need to stop to reload the powder and primers. This all cuts into the production and reduces it to around 350 to 400. Still, do an hour or two here and there for a week and you're all set for the year.

In addtion to a progressive reloader you'll need a cheap digital scale off Ebay or some other online place to measure the powder charges. You can get one that measures in .2grain steps for $25. And some that measure to .1 grain steps are just a few bucks more. There's the balance scales as well but trust me, the cheap digital is well worth it. On top of this you'll need a way to clean your brass. There's tumblers and various dry media but after messing about with one I've switched to an ultrasonic cleaner using a solution of vinegar, dish soap and water. About 1 part vinegar to 4 parts water with a quick small squirt of soap. The brass comes out lovely in about 15 minutes. Rinse well, neutralize the vinegar with a dip in a bucket of water with a good shake of baking soda and then rinse well again and dry in a pan in the toaster oven. Sounds like a lot of stuff but it's actually easier than shaking the corn cob media out of each freakin' piece of brass.... :D All told by buying used you can get set up for likely under $200 to $250. Even new you could do it for less than $350 with some careful shopping.
 
.38 Special used to be a lot more popular than it is today. 20 years ago .38 Special was the 9mm of today, and then some.


I can shoot both .357 magnums and .38 Specials in my revolvers rated for it. Most of us are limited to only 9mm in those semi-autos chambered for it. The versatility meant a lot, and .38 Special was a lot cheaper than it's magnum counterpart. Lead-only bullets were more popular and acceptable to the consumer market, which made them cheaper to produce. Lead .357 magnum rounds tend to lead the barrel too quickly, which made most .357 magnum rounds sold FMJ-only offerings.


9mm is produced and sold in far greater numbers today than it was 20 years ago. Economies of scale and all . . . .40 S&W is cheaper than 10mm. 9mm is cheaper than 38 Super or 9x23 Winchester. Yet most of the semi-autos we buy in 10mm won't function with 40 S&W. Same with .38 Super. To make the lower-powered and shorter rounds reliably work in the same gun you've got to make some part changes. The same is not the case with a .357 magnum revolver.


9mm is the king of economically priced center-fire handgun ammunition these days. But the .38 Special is still the reloader's dream. It's one of the first I learned to load, and for years I did it with one of those Lee hand loader's M2 has in his picture. Great value; I still use it today for case preparation or other small steps in the reloading process that doesn't require a lot of force.
 
nice info here, I don't shoot thousands of rounds but do have some spare time. would a single stage work ok when speed and volume aren't needed? Small pistol primers should work for 9mm and .38/.357.
To me .357 prices are way up so reloading them should be worthwhile. Do the .38 and .357 use the same bullet?
 
I'd suggest a single stage to get started on, maybe at most a Lee auto indexing turret press. Too many things going on at once with a progressive and it's not a deal where once it's set up, you can ignore everything and just pull the handle. I have a couple of progressives. They work, but they require attention and concentration. My square deal set me back 250 bucks and I wish I'd spent a couple hundred more for a 550, but it's a good press and fast. My Lee Pro 1000 works, but requires more attention. It was 40 bucks on ebay, though, and it works. It's much easier and cheaper to switch calibers on, too, than the Dillon. Before you jump all off into progressives, get some crank time on a single stage set up and study the ins and outs of progressives. Once you figure out the features on the different machines, you're going to figure out that the higher dollar machines really are worth the cost.
 
nice info here, I don't shoot thousands of rounds but do have some spare time. would a single stage work ok when speed and volume aren't needed? Small pistol primers should work for 9mm and .38/.357.
Sure.
After I wore out the Lyman "hand tool" I bought a used "C' press for $10. Used it for years and sold it for $10.

With a single stage press you do one operation at a time on hundreds of cases. For instance the first die resizes the case and pushes out the fired primer. The second die inside sizes the mouth of the case and bells the mouth of the case for lead bullets. You also seat the new primer at this time.

The third die seats the bullet in the (charged) case and crimps the case mouth into lead bullets (if necessary).


The big difference between a single stage press and a progressive press is the progressive does all these operations every pull of the handle. There by making a finished round every pull of the handle.


If you start off with a single stage press and go on to a progressive you can sell the old press, or like I do, keep it and that Lee Hand Tool, for small jobs.
 
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CZ Handgun

$440

750px-CZ_75_SP-01.jpg

Kadet Kit

$285

CZ75_Kadet_Kit.png


20,000 rounds of 22lr

$545

Total = $1275

Most cost effective decision I ever made.
 
Reloading 38s

I have been saving my brass (38 and 357) from my GP100 in the hopes of reloading. What is the word on reloading supplies? I seem to be having trouble finding primers and powder in stock. No point in looking at equipment right now unless I know I can get supplies.

Matt
 
I have been saving my brass (38 and 357) from my GP100 in the hopes of reloading. What is the word on reloading supplies? I seem to be having trouble finding primers and powder in stock. No point in looking at equipment right now unless I know I can get supplies.
Plenty of powder available and primers are selling for about $30/1,000.

BTW, a 1 pound can of powder will load close to 2,000 38 Special, depending on the powder brand and load.

A 1 pound can will load about 580 .357. (different powder of course)


I just received 10,000 small rifle primers from Powder Valley that I ordered last April. ($24/1,000)

If you can get together with another reloader or several and make a big order from places like Powder Valley (when in stock) you can get good prices.
Powder and primers, like loaded ammo, will keep for many years.
 
CZ Handgun

$440



Kadet Kit

$285



20,000 rounds of 22lr

$545

Total = $1275

Most cost effective decision I ever made.
And good practice to.
A couple weeks ago my friend and his kids were shooting my 22 converted 1911A1 at 52 yards. Now that's fun.:D

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52yardsNatshooting.gif
 
If you won't be shooting bucket loads of the things then yeah, a single stage unit is fine. It just takes basically three times as long to load since each loading requires three pulls of a handle. But once you get going you can still reload 300 to 400 of them over the course of an evening after dinner. Or if you split the jobs over 3 evenings at a couple of hours per night you should be able to turn out an even thousand rounds.

And although this can certainly be done with a hand loader for the couple of extra bucks a table mount unit provides a very handy "extra set of hands" to hold the loader. Bolting it to a board and clamping it to a bench when needed makes it portable.

Of course it seems like few of us here at THR have ONLY one gun. Once you're into reloading the cost savings applies over the entire collection other than .22's. I'm also reloading my two rifle size cartridges at 1/2 and well under 1/2 the cost of boxed ammo. I really enjoy plinking with my .30-30 lever and even with .308 jacketed bullets I'm able to reload for just under 1/2 the cost. On my 7mm-08 loads I'd down to about 1/4 to 1/3 the cost of factory. If I get some cast lead plinkers for the .30-30 I'll be down to around 1/3 on that too.

So even if you go progressive later on the single stage sure won't go to waste.

I can't help you much on supplies. Up this way where the demand isn't as great our "allotment" seems to be keeping us all supplied. Not with big surpluses by any means but it doesn't seem to take much hunting around to find enough bullets and primers to at least get by. Between the shops and mail order if you check around things SHOULD be getting a little better from what I've heard. Lead bullets should be a little easier to get for plinking since so many seem to want to go for jacketed bullets. And for .38's where the velocities are less they are great. Even shooting the soft 148gn wadcutter target shooting specials gives you a decent recoil to ensure you are practicing in pretty close to "real" conditions.
 
Reloading is the only way to go now. Go to an experienced reloader or go to a class on reloading so you don't all the stupid mistakes we all did in the beginning.
 
Supplies around here are everywhere - but the prices are still a little over MSRP (Gander Mtn, go figure)

My advice would be to get a nice used single stage press from RCBS or similar and do it in stages. You'll need a scale, dies, press, shellholder, RELOADING MANUAL, and a loading block for starters, plus components.

I have found that Unique and Universal Clays gives me acceptable accuracy in both my 38, 9mm, and 20 and 28 gauge shotguns.
 
I started loading in college for .44 mag when a box of 50 Mywall 240gr. JHP was about $11. That was too much for my Top Raman and cheap ground beef budget. I got a Lee Pro 1000 as my first press but probably wouldn't recommend a progressive press to another new handloader. I spent too much time checking and re-checking charge weights "-hmmm, did I work the lever the same that time? Better check..." or having to drive a primer-driven slug out of the back of the barrel half a dozen times before I got it down. It might have been different if I had an experienced handloader showing me the ropes, but I was kind of feeling my way along. I sold it and got a Lee indexing Turret Press and still use it.

IMO, if you're starting out a single stage, turret or otherwise, would be a good choice. It's much easier to keep track of everything that's going on when you're only doing one thing at a time. The turret concept can be a time saver, especially if you load multiple calibers, because you don't have to keep setting up your dies.

I may look into a progressive again someday, but the process of working through the different steps is tranquil and relaxing to me, and for now I meet my needs in terms of volumne.
 
I Was hoping to be able to afford to practice a lot with my new sp101 but it turns out 38 ammo i can find is just as much as .40S&W for my P94.


.40 ammo is cheap dude.

i can buy it now for what i paid before the start of the obamanation.


only other cal i can say that about is 5.56 and .44 mag.


:banghead:
 
They used to be quite cheap. 6-7 bucks a box in the early 90s. Cops all switched from .38s to 9mm and .40... .38 prices doubled or tripled. I don't know if that's the cause, but I haven't seen .38 cheaper than 9mm for many years.
 
I never paid more than $8.00/50 for factory practice ammo until the summer of 08. Hell, I wasn't paying more than $10 for .45 acp. They blamed the price increase on the brass price. Brass price crame down and then then the election, then hoarding and hysteria
 
Reloading is the only way to go. Besides cheaper ammo, you don't have to hope a dealer has your cartridge in stock. If I decide to go shooting at the last moment I can run the Dillon for 30 mins and shoot for a couple of hours.
 
lexjj

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38 special is cheaper than everything but 22lr and 9mm.

Elvishead wrote:

On who's planet is .38spl cheaper than 9mm.

I think you will note that he said except .22 and 9mm.

As for the price of factory ammunition, its ridiculous. I don't buy factory, I handload all I shoot. I think given the disposable nature of the .22 LR, is overpriced as well. I can reuse the brass from centerfire ammunition, not so with rimfire. I can load several cartridges, using my own cast bullets and range brass for just about the same price as .22 LR. I have a couple of .22LRs, but I rarely shoot them for that reason.
 
Revolver ammo is more expensive than semi auto ammo, unless you reload.

Revolvers are nice for reloaders since you don't have to go hunt for your brass :)

Ken
 
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