Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by 1KPerDay, May 10, 2021.
None of your stuff pistured warranted 0000 steel wool , a good rubbing of a ballistol soaked part with a micro fiber rag should remove the light rust shown.
Now I understand your response to the USPS shipping receipt I sent you. Sorry for your hassles you are facing .
I would not go that route ! should not be necessary if you give the revolvers and parts a submersion in wd40 for a bit then blow out excess with air and set aside for further lubing later.
WD 40 is about $25 a can from tractor supply or amazon , get three in a 5 gallon plastic bucket. and a large pack of microfiber wipes. and a few quarts of Balistol
Oxalic acid will etch some things… aluminum comes to mind.
@Gordon I’m not going to send anything to a gunsmith; I just want to make a reasonable estimate of my time if we end up making an insurance claim.
Thanks! Got some dudes on this already.
Why yes officer, "I'm doing my once in a flood detail cleaning."
Sold advice, but this was a "vault" or safe room with a safe door FYI. But yes, all items inside will be on platforms or mounted on walls in future.
I was surprised to find that new AR D&H mags that were sealed in plastic bags, and those bags sealed in a plasticized mailing bag, were all full of water. I also got about a quart of water out of my Ruger PC carbine buttstock. Literally stood there for 2 minutes shaking it and water kept pouring out.
An ammo can of 54R was totally dry inside though... so it worked as intended. It was completely underwater.
You can greatly mitigate any rust damage by IMMEDIATELY doing a deep clean and re-oiling everything.
You absolutely cannot afford to put this off. In a way, it's like blood stains...the sooner you get on it, the less likely you are to have permanent staining.
When something like this happens, you'd be surprised at how much rust will actually wipe away with no visible aftereffects.
So do this for the METAL:
Disassemble your weapons. Butt plates come off, grips come off, magazines get disassembled down to springs, followers, butt plates, etc. Slides come off, bolts come out, actions get opened, etc.
You need to do this because you want to get all the water out as soon as possible.
Wipe everything down to dry them, then immediately do a deep clean and oil everything. Don't just "let them air dry"...actually get in there and actively wipe things dry by hand and leave the air drying for after you've thoroughly done so. If you do this right away, you'll likely find that a lot of rust is really surface rust that will wipe off or will be able to remove with a little elbow grease and a cloth.
If you cannot get to a deep clean right away, shoot WD-40 in all the assemblies, down barrels, around springs, over triggers, etc. WD-40 is a penetrating water displacement formulated compound which will also put a protective layer over the metals to keep air exposure to a minimum. You'll have to clean all this out later, but it buys you time to do so in the process. If you have a lot of firearms, you may want to WD-40 a lot of items right away simply due to the amount of time it would take to get to everything.
And no...WD-40 is NOT intended to be a long term lubricant. Over time, it WILL gum up the works. It's a stop-gap measure in this program and should not be "the end of the story" when it comes to corrective actions. Finish the cleaning as soon as possible.
Wood damage may also occur which might affect either the wood itself and/or the finish.
First thing...get all the metal out/off of the wood. Butt plates, trigger guards, screws, etc. Dry the wood thoroughly by hand (wipe down) and air dry it for a short while to get the surface dry.
If the wood was soaked (which it sounds like), then you want to further dry the wood to draw out excess moisture from the wood grain. The key to this is to do it SLOWLY. Since the wood was already fabricated into stock pieces, it's not going to behave like "green wood" in this process, but you can still get cracks by drying too quickly, especially if the wood did much swelling due to water absorption. A lot depends on what the wood is and how the wood was originally treated and sealed. I'd put stocks and other wood components in something like a small plastic trash can, not much taller than the wood, and loosely lay a plastic bag over it, then set the trash can in the corner of the room somewhere away from air currents which would disturb the plastic cover.. You do not want to seal it...you want some minor amount of air to naturally circulate as the wood very slowly dries out.
After a couple weeks or so, check the wood and start looking into what you may need to do to restore the finish, if needed.
Our basement flooded six years ago. About $20,000 in damage.
We had Everdry do a total waterproofing. New tiling outside, tore up the interior floor along the exterior walls to install drain tile. Two double sump pumps with battery backup that will last three days without power. Plus, we got a Generac whole house generator
For mold, we used the cheapest mouthwash you can get at the Dollar Store diluted 50/50 in a pump sprayer. Works incredibly well.
That's another thing that you have to get an immediate jump on, like the rust deal with the firearms.
Once mold sets in, it's exceedingly difficult to kill due to the nature of wood itself.
Yep I've been using canned air, but when that runs out I guess I'll get my compressor set up
Steel wool will remove the oxidation and ruin the blueing unless you decide to reblue them.
Sadly, there are some pitting but mostly is superficial.
Skylerbone is not far from a good advice.
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