.45 ACP cylinder for 45LC Colt SAA

Status
Not open for further replies.
Lets try again....
attachment.php
 
Victory! Okay, so what were your guys thoughts? Should I get an action job before shooting? Is an action job going to make the gun last longer with fewer problems? I thought I read somewhere that smoothing the parts out will prevent undue wear and make the gun function better for longer. Is there any problem with shooting it, right out of the box that you can see?

If I get an action job, I will go through Nutmeg.
 
Thanks Timothy, I really like her :) It just feels right in my hand, and its cool to finally have the historical SAA Ive been wanting. Ive had the itch since the first time I read about old west guns in a book by Time Life called "The Gunfighters."

Heres a funny part of the manual:

Collectors of fine firearms, such as this Colt revolver, should be aware that:

1. Loading and unloading the firearm will show wear and lead to loss of collector value.

2. Excessive handling will lead to premature wear and cause loss of value.

3. Firing this revolver will cause immediate extreme loss of collectors value.

CAUTION: IF YOU HAVE READ THE WARNING ABOVE, AND ACCEPT THE LOSS OF COLLECTORS VALUE AND THE RISK OF DANGER FROM LOADING THIS REVOLVER USE THE INFORMATION IN THE REST OF THIS MANUAL TO MINIMIZE THE RISK OF INJURY, DEATH, OR DAMAGE TO PROPERTY.

Sorry, dont know why, but this made me smile. I guess mine will just have to suffer immediate extreme loss of collectors value :) While I dont blame those who collect them only, for me, I paid too much money to not make her work! Maybe after I win the lottery I will buy some to sit around.
 
kdave21,

Good looking revolver! I am partial to the 5 1/2" barrel. Go ahead and shoot it, it may not need any action work. You won't know until you try it. An action job is an immediate approximation of a lifetime of wear. I have several revolvers on which action work has been done and more that have never needed it. Good luck and enjoy it. What kind of leather are you considering?
 
Like I said, beautiful! Just beautiful! But, it is even more 'beautifuller' than I imagined! You got one of the prettiest I have seen lately.

They don't usually need action jobs out of the box these days, but chances are that a good action job will make it smoother and feel lighter on the trigger. You won't regret a good action job, but probably won't miss it either if you don't get one. Your call. The only time a specialty action job can really help it to last longer enough to warrant the job is if you plan to abuse it by fanning. I hope you aren't considering treating it that way.
 
What kind of leather are you considering?

I havent decided yet. Right now my favorite is probably one by Cochise Leather of AZ. I like the fact that they are lined, and while it may seem silly, I like the fact that the company is located in a part of AZ that I have some fond memories of, and is associated with history that I like (Earps, etc).

Any other recommendations? Never bought any nice leather before. I prefer lined leather, and I dont want to spend much over $200 for my rig. I know that limits me.

I hope you aren't considering treating it that way.

No, I wont be fanning this one. Tombstone has a little shop where tourists can try their hands at "shooting" six guns. (It only shoots paintball type bullets, and if I remember correctly, they were Ruger Vaqueros, or something similar). Anyway, I had never shot a single action before and after a few shots I asked the owner if I could fan it. He didnt care. I think I got it out of my system that day. Its not what its cracked up to be and Im glad I did it on someone else's gun and not mine.
 
She's a real beaut'! The colour case in particular is really nicely defined on your gun.

And I think you did the right thing getting both cylinders from the get go. That way there's no returning the gun for fitting and you likely got a better match on the blueing to the rest of the gun since the parts were likely all done in one batch.

And a hearty agreement on living with the devaluation from shooting it. Like you I just do NOT have the collector mentality to buy "kinetic" objects and then just let them lay unused in some display case or dark storage cabinet on the chance that they will be more valuable some day. To me be it guns, cars, motorcycles or airplanes I think caging such creations is as cruel as putting a soaring bird or high speed animal in a closet size cage. The true nature and beauty of any of these man made or natural creations just cannot be truly appreciated until they are seen in operation or running/flying freely.

As for the trigger job I'd say you should try it as it is now first. Check on how much creep it has and the trigger effort needed. If it's too heavy a pull and/or has more creep than you'd like THEN get a trigger job done to it.

Out of my various SA cartridge and C&B guns only two have a bad trigger creep length that I'll eventually get around to reducing. The others all shoot with a light enough pull and what seems like an instant hammer fall. And none of mine are all that fancy what with all but the two Rugers being born in Italy. So a premium offering such as yours should be pretty darn good right out of the box I'd assume
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the feedback and compliments guys.

I think I'm going to go ahead and take her out and evaluate the trigger at that time. If I could get away without an action job, then that just means I can get some money into leather all that much quicker and no sense in spending money if it doesn't need one.

Now to just find some range time...
 
if you decide to get the other cylinder later,you will have to return the gun to the factory,you will have shipping charges,plus any fees the ffl will charge.have them engrave part of the serial number on both cylinders.that way,if you have another with dual cylinders,they will not get mixed up.

There is no reason to use a FFL when shipping between the owner and manufacturer, and back . There is no transfer, just sending it for repair and return.
I just sent in a 1858 to Kirst to have the ejector installed and the .45 colt cylinder fitted. Regular UPS, no FFL.
 
Reloading a brass cartridge case is essentially the same as reloading a cap-and-ball revolver chamber. You already understand the fundamentals. The main differences are that cases have to be decapped and resized, and the bullets lubed (if you cast your own).

I reloaded .45 Colt for years with the aforementioned Lee Loader before I ever got a press. The instructions are included. All you need is a hammer. Reloading obviously has to consume some time, but even more so if you get into it heavily with all the gadgets mentioned in StrawHat's post. Just start simple and do a little at a time. You will find it doesn't take many little sessions during the week to have plenty to shoot on a weekend.

You can buy factory bullets and forego the casting. Your ammunition will cost a few pennies more per round, but you would cut at least 50% of the time off your total reloading time.

The most critical thing is not to double charge the powder. That is the one step you should definitely complete uninterrupted.

Your shopping list:
pre-lubed bullets
1 lb. Unique powder
large pistol primers
1- Lee Loader
1- hammer

Of course you will also need brass, but once you have it you will be able to reload it several times.
And if you want to get fancy you could get the hand press too. Simple, and cheap. This is a good option for something you won't shoot tons of ammo out of. I have one, it is nice. If you want take it to the range and work up a load.
If you use something like Trailboss that helps. Use a bulky powder If worried. Get 2 load manuals and read them before trying to load.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top