50BMG Brass Recommendations

[texasjohn]

I am going to be doing some 50BMG reloading for my McMillan TAC-50 here soon and I am wondering what ya'll might recommend as good brass to start collecting/buying.

I have experience doing 50bmg reloading for a Barret <I forget what model> semi-auto and my requirements there for accuracy/consistency are not as high as they will be for the TAC-50.

I saw on Midway some sales for Magtech brass, which had some poor reviews.

With the Barret, I have been shooting Federal XM33 ball stuff and it has either Lake City or Winchester IIRC. I assume (I didn't buy the stuff, just shot it) that was pulled and re-built. The brass, after clean up, resizing, and trimming seemed to be of decent quality.

In other words, I would like to get some quality brass that I can reload a number of times and get the most consistent results from. I am not opposed to buying rounds to shoot for practice with and get decent brass from.


What are the options out there?

Also, if anybody has experience with the TAC-50 and would like to share load data, I plan on using Hornady A-MAX 750s with H689 powder (new to me, but recommend by the shop near me and probably H50BMG that I have had good luck with with the other 50.

 

[redbullitt]

I have had very good luck with h50bmg. I use that with the expensive match bullets and use pulldown stuff, like wc867 etc to load cheaper rounds.

I have had pretty good luck with lake city brass. No matter what you use, there is going to be a good amount of brass prep needed to get everything fairly uniform.

Check out wideners or 50bmgsupply.com. Both usually have a pretty good selection.

 

[9X23WIN]

I don't know what's the best available brass nowadays, but when I bought all my stuff, Israeli brass was the way to go. But I can't seem to find them anymore. I've also had success with LC, HPX and Win brass. Some of my brass has been reloaded over 7 times and they seem to be fine.
Regarding powder, most competitive FCSA 50 shooters use H50BMG and V20n29. I've also used A8700 and IMR5010 for the plinking stuff. Though quite a bit more expensive than others, V20n29 is my powder of choice.
The only advice I can give you is don't buy used machine gun brass. They are stretched to hell and tough to resize. I bought a few hundred years ago and ended throwing them all in the trash. Your Tac 50 deserves better.

 

[texasjohn]

Yeah, I tend to spend a lot of time prepping the LC and Winchester stuff I have been loading so far, so I am used to that. In fact I spend a LOT of time on my 308 reloads too

It looks like one of the easiest ways to get decent brass is just buy the loaded stuff, shoot it, then start using the brass.

Another side question, does anybody neck re-size the 50bmg? I have never done it before for any round, and not in the semi-auto Barret, but I was thinking it might make sense for the TAC-50, if that is the only rifle that is going to eat my rounds. Thoughts?

 

[9X23WIN]

I neck sized and only FL size when the bolt gets hard to close. Tighter fitting brass helps my 50s eliminate misfires. My dies are RCBS.

 

[Faret]

If I had the money I would get Winchester primed fire form with a military bullet. Then do my brass prep and load match stuff.

 

[OldmanFCSA]

If you truly want to learn the best from the best - join the Fifty Caliber Shooting Association. It will be the best $40-50 bucks you ever spent. Join the closed Forum to get actual load data for your rifle.
You want TZZ-00 and up brass.
You do not want WCC brass.
You do not want CBC brass.
You will learn which LC brass to use.
You will buy stuff that later will be sold without ever using it.
You will buy primers 2500 at a time.
You will buy powder 80 pounds at a time to maintain lot consistency.
You will buy bullets by the thousand of each brand to sort by weight.
You want H50BMG for 750 grain Amax's.
You want VV 20N29 for anything heavier like the 800 grain Lehigh brass bore-riders that I use.
You will not use US869, H or IMR 5010, 872, 871, etc for target loadings - these powders are not consistent in their burn rates.
You will anneal your brass every firing.
You will ream and cut primer pockets using K&M tools.
You will ream and chamfer flash holes.
You will full-size with 0.002" shoulder set back in your chamber.
You will neck-turn your brass to 0.0195 to 0.0210 with all cases within 0.0005". Final thickness you choose will determine neck tension.
You will trim and chamfer each case to exact lengths and diameters for case-to-case consistency.
You will load bullets weighing within 0.1 grains of each other.
You will load powder of your choice to within 0.1 grains of each other.
You will segregate your cases within 0.5 grains of each other after all brass preps are completed.
You will check run-out of case necks before accepting for loading.
You will check run-out of bullets before accepting as competition target loads.
You will heat your ammo to 110-135 degrees before shooting to minimize temperature differentials. (Most shoioters won't like this - BUT IT WORKS !!!)
You will practice shooting.
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,

AND WHEN YOU ARE DONE YOU WILL BE ABLE TO SHOOT GROUPS UNDER 4" CENTER-TO-CENTER AT 1000 YARDS.

But this is a costly sport - Are you ready to commit ????

 

[Faret]

If you truly want to learn the best from the best - join the Fifty Caliber Shooting Association. It will be the best $40-50 bucks you ever spent. Join the closed Forum to get actual load data for your rifle.
You want TZZ-00 and up brass.
You do not want WCC brass.
You do not want CBC brass.
You will learn which LC brass to use.
You will buy stuff that later will be sold without ever using it.
You will buy primers 2500 at a time.
You will buy powder 80 pounds at a time to maintain lot consistency.
You will buy bullets by the thousand of each brand to sort by weight.
You want H50BMG for 750 grain Amax's.
You want VV 20N29 for anything heavier like the 800 grain Lehigh brass bore-riders that I use.
You will not use US869, H or IMR 5010, 872, 871, etc for target loadings - these powders are not consistent in their burn rates.
You will anneal your brass every firing.
You will ream and cut primer pockets using K&M tools.
You will ream and chamfer flash holes.
You will full-size with 0.002" shoulder set back in your chamber.
You will neck-turn your brass to 0.0195 to 0.0210 with all cases within 0.0005". Final thickness you choose will determine neck tension.
You will trim and chamfer each case to exact lengths and diameters for case-to-case consistency.
You will load bullets weighing within 0.1 grains of each other.
You will load powder of your choice to within 0.1 grains of each other.
You will segregate your cases within 0.5 grains of each other after all brass preps are completed.
You will check run-out of case necks before accepting for loading.
You will check run-out of bullets before accepting as competition target loads.
You will heat your ammo to 110-135 degrees before shooting to minimize temperature differentials. (Most shoioters won't like this - BUT IT WORKS !!!)
You will practice shooting.
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,
TRIGGER TIME,

AND WHEN YOU ARE DONE YOU WILL BE ABLE TO SHOOT GROUPS UNDER 4" CENTER-TO-CENTER AT 1000 YARDS.

But this is a costly sport - Are you ready to commit ????
__________________
++++++++++
OldmanFCSA

Yes Sir Can I take a #2 now!

 

[OldmanFCSA]

If that will relieve the pressure on your brain, because of the position of your head, then definitely YES, because then you may open your eyes and learn something today!!!

 

[Faret]

That sounds just like the dictatorship FCSA. To the OP you don't have to do everything like that I have had good groups with half of the prepwork some of that just gives you peace of mind.

 

[9X23WIN]

There has been only a few guys/gals who have shot 4" groups. But the OLDMAN does have a few valid points IF you want to compete with the very best. FWIW, I've seen a few screamers shot with standard FL sized ammo without any of the above prep work. To each his own I guess.

 

[OldmanFCSA]

Faret,
You sound like you have a grudge against the FCSA - but have you ever shot a FCSA match?
We are not against anyone not having fun shooting rocks, I like to do it too.
BUT re-read the original posting....
"I am going to be doing some 50BMG reloading for my McMillan TAC-50 here soon and I am wondering what ya'll might recommend as good brass to start collecting/buying.

I have experience doing 50bmg reloading for a Barret <I forget what model> semi-auto and my requirements there for accuracy/consistency are not as high as they will be for the TAC-50.

I saw on Midway some sales for Magtech brass, which had some poor reviews.

With the Barret, I have been shooting Federal XM33 ball stuff and it has either Lake City or Winchester IIRC. I assume (I didn't buy the stuff, just shot it) that was pulled and re-built. The brass, after clean up, resizing, and trimming seemed to be of decent quality.

In other words, I would like to get some quality brass that I can reload a number of times and get the most consistent results from. I am not opposed to buying rounds to shoot for practice with and get decent brass from.


What are the options out there?

Also, if anybody has experience with the TAC-50 and would like to share load data, I plan on using Hornady A-MAX 750s with H689 powder (new to me, but recommend by the shop near me and probably H50BMG that I have had good luck with with the other 50. "

He has already shot the Barrett 50 "shotgun" that will not group better than 11" at 1000 yards.
He has a quality rifle in the TAC-50, and want to shoot for accuracy, thus his request for the best brass to start collecting. He's doing a great job - asking before buying - listening to the responses he is getting.
I'm just summarizing the steps he needs to address to get to be the best - this process took me over 5 years to learn, and I'm trying to cut his learning time, and thus his expense, to learn what he SHOULD do to attain the best accuracy.
He has an excellent rifle that should be treated with excellent quality ammo, not cheap surplus that only provides cheap brass while wearing out his barrel.
I shoot an old-style AR-50 and burned thru lots of surplus, and still do, but have learned that properly prepped ammo and lots of trigger-time-practice will allow me to shoot 0.4 MOA groups at 1000 yards as I did in Alliance, Nebraska in the June 2010 Spring FCSA Match. I was not able to compete in the World Championship Match, but did go to a Fun Shoot in Marksville, LA where we shoot bowling balls at 450, 600, 800, 900, 1000, and at a mile. I broke multiples at 600, 900, and at 1000 yards, and finally broke two at 1 mile. If you don't hit a bowling ball dead center they will roll across the ground - I chased 1 back and forth at 1000 with surplus ball ammo, but broke 3-in-a-row with my reloaded ammo.
Little things make a big difference at 1000 yards to a mile.