Oldschool shooter
Member
I have a S&W 638 that I use for EDC. Can anyone tell meif it is possible to change out the MIM parts for good sterl parts fromone of the older model revolvers?
638 Mods
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638 is a good gun. Most folks I see worry more about the "lock" than the mim parts (seems to be a more 1911 thing).
Long story short I am not sure of a way to change out the mim triggers hammers etc.
I wouldn't lose an ounce of sleep over it. I would put a few hundred rounds through it to shake it out. If it's good through that you probably have as much assurance as anyone could have in a thing made by man.
The airweights will fire thousands of rounds mim parts and all, without wearing out or breaking (generally). I remember a thread once "break my 642" or something back in the day. Something like 10k 38 plus p and still going.
If you want a non mim snub I'd keep a lock out for an older model Vs trying to swap parts out.
Should your mim fail sw has a good warranty and will fix it or give you a new one. Just use that older non mim one til you get it back
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A non issue here in my opinion. Mim is here to stay and when done right it's fine. Generally sw does it right. Plenty of mim parts in the m&p series holding up to hard duty use.
Plenty of mim parts in industrial use and on plane engines etc etc.
Long story short I am not sure of a way to change out the mim triggers hammers etc.
I wouldn't lose an ounce of sleep over it. I would put a few hundred rounds through it to shake it out. If it's good through that you probably have as much assurance as anyone could have in a thing made by man.
The airweights will fire thousands of rounds mim parts and all, without wearing out or breaking (generally). I remember a thread once "break my 642" or something back in the day. Something like 10k 38 plus p and still going.
If you want a non mim snub I'd keep a lock out for an older model Vs trying to swap parts out.
Should your mim fail sw has a good warranty and will fix it or give you a new one. Just use that older non mim one til you get it back
.A non issue here in my opinion. Mim is here to stay and when done right it's fine. Generally sw does it right. Plenty of mim parts in the m&p series holding up to hard duty use.
Plenty of mim parts in industrial use and on plane engines etc etc.
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
What’s wrong with the MIM parts?
Do they not function properly?
MIM parts and the engineering that went into them means that there is no hand fitting of parts. Part “A” in Gun “A” will for and function with parts “B” and “C” in guns “A, B, C, D”, etc...
If you get non-MIM parts from older guns. Do you know how to hand fit them and modify the receiver if they will not work in the new gun?
I would shoot the gun as is and worry about the MIM parts in years to come when they get worn from shooting thousands of rounds from your gun.
Do they not function properly?
MIM parts and the engineering that went into them means that there is no hand fitting of parts. Part “A” in Gun “A” will for and function with parts “B” and “C” in guns “A, B, C, D”, etc...
If you get non-MIM parts from older guns. Do you know how to hand fit them and modify the receiver if they will not work in the new gun?
I would shoot the gun as is and worry about the MIM parts in years to come when they get worn from shooting thousands of rounds from your gun.
Oldschool shooter
Member
Nothing wrong with the functioning of the MIM parts, just an old fart here that remembers the old days. Back when S&W first started producing stainless revolvers, guys like me, and a few local police departments, had hammers, triggers, and sears changed out for carbon steel parts. Truth be told, just a fix in search of a problem. I have about 1000 trouble free rounds shot with this revolver.
Oldschool shooter
Member
Forgot to mention, I do have a nice model 36-2, not as snag free as the 638, but a great revolver. Also have a slightly larger 57 vintage Colt Detective Special.
1000 trouble free rounds, I would venture your 638 is good to go!
A good point above about hand fitting. And sadly, I know, older isn't always better. My gunsmith said he has seen more forged parts fail then mim. Mim is so controlled maybe it removes some of the human error, problems in the forgings etc.
I think it just depends on the mim, the forge, the specific part and what stress it is under.
I know, I like forged too. Just sounds stronger and I picture Conan the barbarians father hammering out parts on his forge while solving the riddle of steel.
But mim gets the job done and is here to stay. I'd keep an eye out for an old Smith to turn up. They are still out there. I bet there is one being traded right now for a mim filled gen 5 glock 19 right now.
A good point above about hand fitting. And sadly, I know, older isn't always better. My gunsmith said he has seen more forged parts fail then mim. Mim is so controlled maybe it removes some of the human error, problems in the forgings etc.
I think it just depends on the mim, the forge, the specific part and what stress it is under.
I know, I like forged too. Just sounds stronger and I picture Conan the barbarians father hammering out parts on his forge while solving the riddle of steel.
But mim gets the job done and is here to stay. I'd keep an eye out for an old Smith to turn up. They are still out there. I bet there is one being traded right now for a mim filled gen 5 glock 19 right now.
Just saw your other post, funny I was gonna recommend an old model 36. The DS is a sweet shooter too. Looks like you have the best of all worlds.
I'd keep the forged snubbies from a bygone era in the safe. Carry the mimmy 638, and fret not, it's been faithful 1000 times and I'll bet you a vintage Smith it'll be faithful 1000 times again.
I'd keep the forged snubbies from a bygone era in the safe. Carry the mimmy 638, and fret not, it's been faithful 1000 times and I'll bet you a vintage Smith it'll be faithful 1000 times again.
Oldschool shooter
Member
I'm old enough that when somebody says Model 19, I think of the S&W Combat Magnum.
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
I also have a 36-2. Love that little revolver.
bannockburn
Member
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Oldschool shooter
I have both an all stainless Model 649 and an aluminum alloy framed Model 638. Biggest difference between them is that the Model 638 is lighter in weight and a little more comfortable to carry for long periods of time. The Model 638 in particular is extremely well built and has a surprisingly smooth DA trigger on it, right out of the box. I have no doubt both will provide me with many more years of dependable service without the need for any replacement of parts.
I have both an all stainless Model 649 and an aluminum alloy framed Model 638. Biggest difference between them is that the Model 638 is lighter in weight and a little more comfortable to carry for long periods of time. The Model 638 in particular is extremely well built and has a surprisingly smooth DA trigger on it, right out of the box. I have no doubt both will provide me with many more years of dependable service without the need for any replacement of parts.
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.455_Hunter
Member
I have a pre-lock 638. The geometry of these guns with the frame mounted firing pin is completely different than earlier versions. No worry- all of my MIM guns have held-up great, including my first Model 60 I got in 1998.
Oldschool shooter
Member
Beautiful 649. A friend has one and it's a great little revolver. While I wouldn't hesitate to use one for carry, the weight of the 638 is definitely an advantage for EDC.
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