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642 empty case ejection ??

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by fourdollarbill, Dec 10, 2008.

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  1. fourdollarbill

    fourdollarbill Member

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    I am a converted auto carrier. I bought my wife a 642 for ccw and the rest is obvious. My question is how do you get the empty cases to all eject without having to pull them out two at a time??? I want to put my speed loader to practice but I find it usless if you cannot "speed eject".
     
  2. goon

    goon Member

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    It helps a lot to keep the chambers really clean when you're carrying.
    Also, make sure you point the muzzle up and press down firmly on the ejector rod. The rod isn't long enough to push the empties out if you just push gently but a little bit of force on the rod will do the trick.
     
  3. fourdollarbill

    fourdollarbill Member

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    The rod is a little too short to push the case the whole way out. I have tried to put the muzzle up and slap the ejector rod and 2 or 3 always hang. When I see the pro shooters on shows their empties just seem to fall out with no problems. I sure would like to find out the trick. Do you know if you can polish the chambers with a dremel type tool with a cloth polish wheel and if it will help or hurt?
     
  4. MrBorland

    MrBorland Moderator

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    The pros are typically using guns with longer barrels and ejector rods, and are often using moonclips.

    For .38/.357s, you need at least a 3" barrel for the ejector rod/star itself to push the empties completely clear of the cylinder. The advice to keep the cylinders clean and to keep the gun vertical and give the ejector rod a good whack is your best bet. Also, if you're shooting .357mags, you'll probably find the shorter .38spl case eject a little easier.
     
  5. ArchAngelCD

    ArchAngelCD Member

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    fourdollarbill,
    I have several Airweight J frames and even though the rod is short I can get all the rounds out quickly. What ammo are you shooting? What cases are used with the ammo you are shooting? (Brass or Nickel?) The Nickel cases will usually eject easier. Also, like said above, the cylinders should be very clean and make sure you don't have carbon rings in the cylinders.

    I'm asking about the ammo you're using because it sounds like the pressure might be a little high so the cases are sticking.

    MrBorland,
    The M642 is a .38 Special, not a .357 Magnum.
     
  6. jakk280rem

    jakk280rem Member

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    Bad idea. using a hand held rotary tool will simply add irregularities to a concentric cylinder.

    a brand new 642 should have absoulutely no problem ejecting empties. use about as much force as you would use to give a buddy a high 5. keep your chambers and amo clean and dry and you should have no ploblem. if the issue persists, take it to a good smith, tell him what ammo you are using. it may, however unlikely, need a trip back to s&w.
     
  7. johnnylaw53

    johnnylaw53 Member

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    For the most part all empties come out of my 642 when I point it up and push the ejector rod hard and fast but because it so short now and then one will not clear all the way. This really not a problem since it not a big deal to me to get it out the rest of the way since I don't carry a reload when I'm off and the five in the weapon is all I got. The only problem it does created is we have to shoot a passing scorce with the weapon we carry off duty, and the course is designed for semi auto and timed. So it can hurt me when i go to the range for a offical score. I found if you get to the range right before the range master go to lunch and you go to lunch with him and pick up the tab when you get back to the range the clock runs a little slower so if I do get one or two empties to hang up I always seem to have time to clear and reload.

    BE safe
     
  8. The Bushmaster

    The Bushmaster Member

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    SLAP that ejector rod!!! Using nickel cases help a lot too. My wife's Mod 10-5 2" will eject all of the empty cases in one SLAP with no problems. It will take a little practice though...
     
  9. Old Fuff

    Old Fuff Member

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    At the factory, chambering reamers get worn, and as they do they make smaller chambers. I would return the revolver to S&W (on their dime including shipping) and ask them to fix it. If the chambers are on the tight side they will ream them with a fresh chambering reamer, and while they're at it, check it out for any other problems. You'll be without the revolver for a short time, but in my view it's worth it for the peace of mind.
     
  10. Geezer59

    Geezer59 Member

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    There's a decent overview of rapid reloading over at PoliceOne.com that covers revolver speed loaders. The only difference in the technique I use with my 642 and their "Shooting Hand Reload" is that I use the heel of my strong (shooting) hand to sharply rap the end of the ejector rod (gun muzzle up) before simultaneously going for the speed loader w/ strong hand while tipping the gun muzzle down with the support hand. Almost never have cartridges stick in the cylinder that way, unlike when fingers are used to manipulate the ejector rod.

    Once you get a technique that works for you, Gun-Tests.com has a good article on various revolver speedloaders to choose from.
     
  11. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    Before you ship it back to S&W, try some other brands of ammo.

    You maybe just got a bad batch of ammo.

    rcmodel
     
  12. fourdollarbill

    fourdollarbill Member

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    Hey thanks for all the reply's.
    I typically use the remington ammo from walmart with a semi jacket and a lead hp. They are +P loads and they do not eject very well. My reloads are 125grain ranier copper coated with a medium to high charge they do seem to unload easier.
    jakk280rem, thanks for the advice on not dremeling it. I was near putting the rouge to it. I going to try the nickel case to see if it helps. But since I do not use my reloads for daily carry, does anybody have a bullet type or brand with nickel cases to tell me about? If not i think I have more than enough info to run on. Thanks again...
     
  13. ArchAngelCD

    ArchAngelCD Member

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    Speer 135gr .38 Special +P Short Barrel ammo is made with Nickel cases. It's also a good ammo to use in a short barrel revolver since the bullet was designed to expand at the lower velocities usually generated in a snub nose. Give them a try but be warned, they are very expensive at $21/20 rounds.
     
  14. fourdollarbill

    fourdollarbill Member

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    Old Fuff, I think you got it. I bought a new 637 S&W 38+P just yesterday. I just come back from the range and had no problem dropping the brass. I took that same empty brass and pushed it in the 642 and it will hang. Both guns are very clean in the chambers so I would assume your call about the reamer is correct. I did try the slap em out method and it seems to work fair. I'm going to try the change of ammo thing for now so I can practice speed loads.
    Thank you,
     
  15. goon

    goon Member

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    I've also used the Speer short barrel loads and highly recommend them. They aren't cheap but that's the beauty of a revolver - you don't have to put more than a box or so through your gun to be pretty sure the ammo is going to work well.
    I suppose in your case, I might send the gun back to be looked over. I just had to send one back to Ruger to get the sights straightened up. It's not fun to have to send one back for repairs but you'll never be confident in the gun if it's not working perfectly.
     
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