66 or 620?

[Tom Servo]

Okay, I want a 4" round-butt L-Frame. I've got an opportunity to get a 66-3 for a song. It's only been fired a few times, and everything checks out. Looks new, in fact. I can also get it ~$200 less than a 620.

The 620 is nice, but a bit heavier, and what's more, the trigger isn't nearly as smooth or light as the 66.

I'm really leaning towards the 66, but I've heard 50/50 opinions about the K-Frames not holding up to regular use of .357s. Any truth to this?

I WOULD be feeding it around 500-600 rounds a year, and it'd also be a carry gun. I like the weight and balance of the 66, but if it can't handle a somewhat regular diet of Magnums, I'll go with the 620.

 

[mnrivrat]

Get the 66 and don't worry about wearing it out at that amount of shooting in a years time. In 10 years it will still be just fine and worth more than what you paid for it.

 

[Don Lu]

Although I own the blued counter part to the 620 (the 520), I dont think shooting 50 rnds/month will push the K-frame to it's limits...for the price, Id say go for the 66.

 

[JCF]

I've fired several years worth of .357 (at the rate you are describing) during the past six months out of my very well used 66. It is as accurate as ever. I would do the 66 hands down ... it is one of my absolute favorite guns.

 

[Baron357]

The 620 is the more modern and stronger replacement for the 66 which I have and it is a great gun, that being said the 66 will not let you down either, feel good about either one. I would and did get the 620 brand new and love it. Never know when you will need that 7th shot.

 

[18DAI]

I would personally buy the model 66. The current S&W revolvers hold no appeal for me. You will get more for your money, and the model 66 will hold it's value. My 3" model 66 is one of my favorite revolvers. Good luck with your choice. TJ

 

[Baron357]

Actually the new S&W guns being put out today and in the past 5 or so years are just about the highest quality and strongest S&W guns every made. This is another reason why I chose the new 620. And as far as money there will be no difference in the amount you lose if you were to trade or sell either the 66 or 620, but why would you not keep it anyways?

 

[454c]

Another vote for the 66.

 

[Tom Servo]

Looks like the 66 will be the one to go for.

Dumb question: it's a 66-3, no idea as to what year. Anyone know if it's a round or square butt?

 

[ArchAngelCD]

As long as you stay away from shooting a lot of 125 gr .357 Magnum rounds through the M66 you won't have a problem. Just stick to 158 gr rounds and you will be fine. I would jump on the M66 since if price is good. BTW, how much will the M66 cost you?

 

[DennisE]

I love my 66. I'd chose in a heartbeat over a L-frame. Dennis

 

[Stainz]

620 - the K&L frames share the same lockwork. If the 4" 66 was from the last batch made, it'd even have the two piece barrel shroud/liner of the 620. The 620 has the 686+'s frame & cylinder, with a partially lugged barrel. Sadly, even though they will take the same grips, the later 66's came with the backstrap-enclosing squared Uncle Mike's Combats, the 620 comes with the same Hogue open back monobloc rubber that the 686/686+ comes equipped with... a grip change there for me, that's for sure! The 620 is onmy 'short' list. You may as well as have the stronger of the two - with that extra round.

Stainz

 

[wcwhitey]

Compare the ballistics and pressures of the .357 magnum in the days when the K frames were in the hands of just about every cop in America, the 1970's to current loadings. They are all loaded down with the exception of some custom ammo makers. The problem may have been overstated then, but should not be an issue at all now. Factory ammo is not what it was. Bill

 

[Tom Servo]

I'll be getting it for $379, most of which'll be covered by an old pistol I'm selling next week. The 620 is going for $589 new, and the trigger is ratchety, clickety and scrapey in comparison. The 66 was only test-fired with a couple of cylinders of .38's, so it's pretty much new.

From what I've gathered, the forcing cone appears to be the issue. It's got a groove beveled in at the 6-o-clock position, and the 125gr Magnums can cause flame-cutting in that part, cracking it in time.

Theoretically. All the breakage issues I've heard about have been in the Model 19's, however. Folks who own the 66 do not seem to be having problems.

In any case, I won't likely be running tons of 125gr through it anyhow, as I prefer shooting the 158gr rounds.

 

[cookekdjr]

Eric,
I lived in the ATL area for years, and I see you live in Cobb County. You owe it to yourself to go by Adventure Outdoors (contact info below) to check out their selection of used S&W's. In the alternative, I'd check into odering a 686 from summitgunbroker.com.

Adventure Outdoors
(770) 333-9880
www.advout.com
2295 S Cobb Dr Se
Smyrna, GA 30080

Both places have very reasonable prices. Adventure Outdoors has more guns in stock than most gun shows I've attended.
Good luck,

David

 

[Baron357]

$589 seems high and I live in MA where prices are always high, I paid $550 when it first came out and now they go for just over $500.

 

[slow944]

I've got a M66-2 and next to my Colt Python it has the best feel and balance of any of the 357's I own. I have a good DiSantis IWB holster that I use for CCW and it feels really good on the hip.

 

[Stainz]

If that 66 is a recent model - and literally LNIB - that $389 price is good. $589 is good for a new 620 now, their MSRP was $751 in the '07 Catalog - and price increases have occured since it's printing.

I bought my first .38 (2" 10-11) and .357M (6" 66-6) four years ago Labor Day '03 - new, from a closeout dealer in TX. They were made 1/'03, according to S&W. My very first of those calibers to ever hold - or shoot. And... they started their life here with my ammo. The hottest thing either see's is commercially made - +P 158gr LHPSWC SD round. My .357M's are wimpy - +P at best. The 66 got a HiViz and Ahrends cocobolo square conversion stocks the night it arrived. It's in the top picture below. Later that year, the 'Stocking Dealer Exclusive' was a similarly adorned 5" h-l 686+ - and I ultimately traded my old .454 SRH towards it. It is the lower one in the picture. They literally 'point' the same.

Given further thought on this, if that 66 really is like new, I'd probably get it... but I'll bet you have them both before it's over.

My 6" 66 gets a lot of plinking - from 12-100+ yd. The 5" 686+ will likely see use in the AM at the range in a Steel Plate Challenge event - with the ranges own rules (.356" or bigger). I have some poppers, 125gr Berry's HP's loaded that make 620 fps with 3.4gr Titegroup under them, for pinging the plates. It's cheaper and easier than my old .45 ACP ball ammo in a 4" 625, which is what I used initially. The extra round helps... but so would the 8 rounds in my JM PC627 V-Comp. Decisions...

Seriously, that 620 will be around - I'd save some bucks and 'start' with the 4" 66. As said, I bet you'll have them both - they are really different (That's what I told myself about the 6" 66 & 5" h-l 686+!).



Stainz

 

[SJshooter]

As long as you stay away from shooting a lot of 125 gr .357 Magnum rounds through the M66 you won't have a problem. Just stick to 158 gr rounds and you will be fine.

This is exactly what I was going to say. The 125-grain magnum bullet it the one that causes forcing cone problems on the 66. And even then, it was only some 66's, not all of them.

Definitely get the 66-3 - it is a beauty and will go up in value and they aren't making no-lock K-frame magnums ever again!

 

[The_Antibubba]

I WOULD be feeding it around 500-600 rounds a year, and it'd also be a carry gun.

One more vote for the 66, for a reason no one else has mentioned: The Model 66 doesn't have that damnable lawyer-mandated internal lock!! Unless you're a certifiable moron (in which case you shouldn't be carrying) the only thing that lock will do is malfunction in some way, at the worst possible time.

The 66 is the newest S&W I will ever own, as I don't see that particular complicating mechanism being retired anytime soon. Fortunately there are so many old M&Ps out there.

 

[Tom Servo]

Well, I shoveled the money out and took it today. I had to clean a bit of surface rust that had accumulated under the grips, but otherwise, this is a beautiful gun.

I'm mostly an automatic guy, and the HK P7 is what I've been carrying the last month or so. I shot it yesterday and did (what I consider) very well.

I took the 66 back to the range, and except for two early fliers when I was "finding" the trigger, I shot it just as well as the P7.







Erik's got a new carryin' iron.

 

[SJshooter]

Go for the 66! Nothing wrong with the 620 -- the two-piece barrel gets rave reviews for accuracy and if you want to shoot 125-grain magnums, this is the one that will eat them up -- but the 66 is an all-time classic. Should have one of the best triggers you'll find on a Smith. Mine does!