686 vs 686 Plus

I have 686s in both the standard and the + versions. Some say the trigger in DA is better in the 7 shot models as compared to the 6 shot revolvers because the cylinder doesn't have to travel as far. My youngest son who shoots in DA all the time claims this is true. Me, I can't tell the difference. As for hunting/plinking, I see no advantage one way or the other either. If you missed your quarry 6 times already, odds are, you ain't gonna get 'em on the 7th. At the range, a box of 50 will leave you two rounds left with a six shooter and only 1 with the seven. In most gun stores I visit there is no price difference either. I always figured S&W would at some point phase out the 6 shot in favor of the 7, but I'd guess the purists won't allow them too.

 

QUOTE:
"...If you missed your quarry 6 times already, odds are, you ain't gonna get 'em on the 7th..."

To follow up on your "logic", if you missed your quarry 5 times already, odds are, you ain't going to get 'em on the 6th. For some, I guess we could hunt with derringers or Contenders.

 

Thanks for the explanation of the competition rules. I've never shot competition so that's all unfamiliar to me. It sounds like the consensus is 686 for competition, 686 Plus for everything else.

 

Well, to clarify - my consensus was 686 for competition and everything else; and 686 Plus only if 1) you're 100% sure you'll never be even remotely interested in checking out a local match at any point, and 2) are 100% sure you like twist-release speedloaders.

 

Contender serves me well. I'm missing your point here...Swampwolf, you mean to tell me that you need 2 shells to kill dinner? Or maybe more?

6 shots...your load is balanced when your carrying 3 rabbits in each hand. 7th shot makes you walk in circles, and I can't eat 7 rabbits. Maybe if I get a youngun to tote that extra rabbit things would be swell again.

 

I can tell you are not as old as I am. For me, I get the young-in to carry them all!

 

I do have a couple of six-shooters (GP100 and Model 64). What guns are typically used for these sorts of competitions? What barrel length? Do folks shoot .357s or do they go with .38 ammo for match use?

 

There are numerous guns games beyond runNgun, and even between runNgun games (IDPA, USPSA, ICORE), the rules differ a bit, so I can only generalize. But generally, a GP100 or M64 would work fine, though IDPA has a 4.25" barrel limit.

You can shoot .357mag if you want to, but folks generally just shoot .38specials. Whatever you shoot, though, the ammo must meet the minimum Power Factor (muzzle velocity x bullet weight) for the particular sport. PFs for .38/.357 revolvers isn't all that high, so it's generally not an issue. Silhouette not withstanding, you certainly don't need (or would want) .357mags for most gun games.

 

QUOTE:
"...Contender serves me well. I'm missing your point here...Swampwolf, you mean to tell me that you need 2 shells to kill dinner? Or maybe more?..."

When I was younger, a spear served me well. Nowadays, it's weiners from Krogers.

 

Do you guys really shoot rabbits with a .357?

 

38s yes, when and where legal...357 will destroy all of the meat.

Unless it's those stinkin swamp jacks, some of those jokers make a fella wonder if a 38 is enough.

My preferred tool is actually a recurve bow either really early or really late in the day. The darkest hour of legal shooting light seems to contain the rabbits fear and keeps them still long enough for a quick stalk and skewer.

 

Driftwoods picture with the cylinders did in fact show a strength advantage in the 7 shot. In S&Ws with even numbers of chambers, the cylinder bolt notch falls right over the chamber. On a Smith with odd numbers of chambers, it falls between the chambers. Unless one is running their guns extra hard with overbook loads, it probably isn't going to matter, and in that case, Id suggest a different model like an N frame or Ruger.

Driftwood, I also dislike the lugged barrels. Smith made a model for a relatively short time that I wished Id picked one up when available. The did the 686+ Mountain Gun. It had a tapered barrel like the model 27s or 24s. Much nicer looking, undoubtedly lighter to carry. The only way they could have made an L frame any cooler was to make the mountain gun with a square butt and blued.

https://www.google.com/search?q=686...EwiO49eHy6nPAhVG7WMKHa4XB-AQ_AUICCgD&dpr=1.15

Driftwood, if you could find a takeoff mountain barrel you could have it screwed into your frame.

BTW, I have seen several Safariland 7 shooter speed loaders. A buddy had 3, all steel/aluminum, no plastic. His brother was a tool and die maker. To have somebody make them may cost as much as a gun.

 

...yes folks kill rabbits with whatever sidearm is at hand.

One of my most vivid childhood memories is of my dad's buddy capping a cottontail on the run as we were dragging a deer back to the skinning tree. He drew his revolver and shot so fast that it looked like the Flash. He saved the meat, blasted the head to pulp. I still don't know how much practice this Nam vet had at point shooting, but his reflexes were phenomenal!

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I've owned this 686-3 since I bought it new in 1989. It was my second S&W revolver (the first was a model 60 "no dash") and in 1989 you could only get six-shooter 686s.

My 686 is used as a range toy and hunting revolver. I choose the six inch tube for the extra sight radius and added velocity which are a plus during both of those endeavors. I have never felt lacking in "firepower" because I'm one round short for either of those tasks.

If I were inclined to carry a two-and-a-quarter pound chunk of revolver as my EDC carry piece, then yes the seventh round would be welcomed. I would choose the three inch round-butt model.

I currently own six S&W revolvers, none of which have the internal lock. I'm not enclined to add an internal lock model now and don't think they made the 686+ before the lock.

Therefore, I'll say adding a 3" 686 without the lock would mean it would be another six shooter.

Edmo

 

I agree, except for the derringer part, as I've yet to ever see a readily available derringer suitable for anything I hunt. Of all the deer I have gotten with my revolvers(5, 6 and 7 shot), I only made it past the first chamber with a coup de grâce. A contender would have worked just as well. Kinda the whole point of my "logic".

 

As with several others on the thread, I chose the 686P, 2.5" barrel for the extra round.
I really love this revolver. It is now Mag-na-Ported, with an action job and Pachmayr grips.

Easy to carry IWB with a Kramer Leather FBI tilt rig. Even at slightly over 40 oz. loaded, it rides real easy. This is one gun that I will never sell.

 

Is the 686+ offered without the awful integral frame lock? Enough said.

 

According to this article, Black Butte, the IL is unfortunately here to stay.

Mine was bought back in the 1990's, so it is sans lock.

 

But the gun in the pic is a Python........

 

I'd take a standard 686 since Safariland doesn't make it's excellent speedloaders in a 7-shot model. That, and I think 6 is plenty and it just feels "right" to me.

 

Really! I did a Google search for a S&W 686P with Pachmayr grips and it come up with this! Looks identical to my Smith 686P which is buried in my safe. BUT with a magnifying glass, it sure is a Python! I need to see my eye doc,pronto!

 

I dug mine out of the safe. Here it is!

 

I own the standard 686 with a 6-inch barrel. I bought it to use hunting and for plinking, shooting 38 Spl loads with 158gr Hornady cast with 5.5gr of AA#5 is soft and accurate. In a shorter barrel with SD more in mind, I'd take the 686+. I don't need more than 6 with what I use it for. Also carry a Ruger Blackhawk 41 Mag 6.5 inch barrel for the same reasons as my 686.

 

I had the 686 Plus. I think he has two advantages over the 686 standard: 1) one more round, which is good and 2) the notches for the cylinder stop between the chambers and not on the chambers.