7.62 x39 reloadable brass, Primer size?

[Rule3]

I was thinking of adding 7.62 x 39 to my reloading calibers. I read in Lyman that some brass uses large rifle and some uses small rifle. Is this correct? I would rather stay with Small rifle. Seems it was between Win and Rem brass.
Which one is small primer?
Anyone loading this. Thanks

 

[rcmodel]

It's the brands the Lyman book says it is.

rc

 

[highlander 5]

I have three difere nt brands of brass Remington, Winchester and IMI. Remington has small primers and the otbers have large primers.

 

[Rule3]

I have three difere nt brands of brass Remington, Winchester and IMI. Remington has small primers and the otbers have large primers.

Thanks, I will try to find some Rem brass.

 

[NWcityguy2]

I reloaded several brands of 7.62x39mm before I gave up (my sks chewed that stuff up), Remington is the only brand I saw with small primers.

Back before everything went crazy, http://store.brassmanbrass.com/servlet/StoreFront sold once fired Remington brass, he will probably do so again when things return to normal.

 

[joneb]

Early R-P 7.62x39 was small primed, some of the later R-P was large primed. All or the Win. and Fed. brass I've seen is Large primed.

 

[chris in va]

Been there, done that.

If you plan to reload for an AK or SKS, save yourself the headache and skip it. Chasing those little cylinders of gold gets to be a real PITA. You'll want to get some sort of brass catcher at a minimum.

One trick I learned, you can use regular 308 bullets. 310 bullets are rare as hen's teeth.

 

[R.W.Dale]

Saving your brass and reloading for the SKS at least is as simple as removing the gas piston thus turning your flinger of brass most coveted into a smooth shooting straight pull bolt action.

Early rp had small primers current is all large. My preference was small primed cases as they're much better able to withstand the pressures I was pushing in my 7.62x39 and later 30ppc largo bench gun.




posted via that mobile app with the sig lines everyone complains about

 

[R.W.Dale]

This shows the difference in case head expansion I was seeing from small primed Remington cases compared to large primed "kp" lapua



posted via that mobile app with the sig lines everyone complains about

 

[Rule3]

Well yes I was shooting a SKS yesterday but how did you know?

How about in a AK does it also "tear up" real brass?

Or should I see what Lyman says about what they say when they said it?

 

[blarby]

Well yes I was shooting a SKS yesterday but how did you know?

Because some of your brass is in my yard

My wife's VEPR has the same problem, even with the new bubba'd deflector we put on there to save brass......

How about in a AK does it also "tear up" real brass?

If they don't have some sort of deflector/buffer on the receiver cover, yep.

Check this out :

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=693047&highlight=eater

By request, added pics........

Just a length of 1/8" ID rubber tubing, zap-a-gap'd in place. Works like a charm. Once it starts wearing down, Im going to just use black silicone to glaze up the rub spots. Zap-a-gap bonds rubber to metal like a champ. ITs taken about 200 rounds now- no problems. Did have to shave it a bit on the inside, to get it to not drag on the bolt carrier, but no biggie.

I may end up ordering another of those covers, just to play around with bending that spot- all it needs is a roll edge so it doesn't punch the dang brass on the stamp hardened straight edge.

 

[highlander 5]

I don't load for an auto loader. I have a Ruger M77 MKII in 7.62x39 and I have a CZ 527 on order in the same caliber.

 

[Rule3]

Zap a Gap?? I know not of this product and I have every toxic substance known to man as well as adhesives

Where do I put this gunk on a AK or SKS??

 

[blarby]

Look at the VEPR. Then look at the AK. It goes at the curve of the housing.

I don't own an SKS, I know not where the brass hits. It would be as simple as finding out where, and applying the tube as on the VEPR.

No zap-a-gap for you eh ? Here's a link :

http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catago.../product.php?gclid=CNOXubL3jbUCFWKCQgodyx0AXg

DO NOT GET THE PINK BOTTLE It flows like water, and unless you are an experienced modeler, you will be removing it from everything...it will instantly bond skin to ANYTHING in ways you wish it would not.

Its essentially just very carefully formulated cryo, for strength and gap filling.

 

[joneb]

I was working up a load for a SKS with H-4198 using Hornady 123 fmj and sp.
I started with 23.5gr using WLR in FC brass crimped lightly to the cannelure the COL was 2.190"
The load was mild and accurate, the brass ejected and landed only a few away. Subsequent loads of 24, 24.5 and 25gr increased the hangtime of the brass, the POI changed but consistency was good.
I plan to order some plated .312 diameter 123gr fp and try to find a mild accurate load, I will try H-4198 Accurate 5744 and 2400.

 

[Rule3]

Look at the VEPR. Then look at the AK. It goes at the curve of the housing.

I don't own an SKS, I know not where the brass hits. It would be as simple as finding out where, and applying the tube as on the VEPR.

No zap-a-gap for you eh ? Here's a link :

http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catago.../product.php?gclid=CNOXubL3jbUCFWKCQgodyx0AXg

DO NOT GET THE PINK BOTTLE It flows like water, and unless you are an experienced modeler, you will be removing it from everything...it will instantly bond skin to ANYTHING in ways you wish it would not.

Its essentially just very carefully formulated cryo, for strength and gap filling.

Thanks for the link. The Mrs is the Crafty Lady. Is this like AS Seen on TV Offer, but wait! Buy now and get a free one??

If I can find some brass I will give it a try. Appreciate it.