The OP has a real problem, because ignition problems can have simple solutions such as stronger mainsprings, but after that, there may be very little the OP can do to improve ignition reliability.
This is worth reading:
IT DON’T GO BANG: FIRES, HANGFIRES, MISFIRES AND SHORT ORDER COOKS IN JERSEY By Mark Humphreville
@Hummer70 has given us all insight to the lackadaisical attitudes of firearm companies to reliable ignition. If the OP's pistol has an inherently weak ignition system, there is no reloading trick that will increase firing pin strike power. And it is possible that a stronger mainspring will help, assuming a stronger replacement is available. Changing springs on a semi auto can cause its own problems if the replacement spring is too strong, or too weak. It is all about the timing of the weapon.
On a Mauser action, I was able to find a firing pin with greater protrusion, and that fixed a misfire problem with 35 Whelen's. But I have a box of 98 military parts. With a commercial firearm, the factory will not sell longer firing pins. Ruger would not install one on a Ruger #1 in 35 Whelan which was having misfire problems. Thankfully the gunsmith centered the firing pin hit on the primer by doing something to the block. And this is something that someone without a machine shop cannot fix: excessive firing pin offset. The further the firing pin hit is from the tip of the primer anvil, the more energy it takes to ignite the primer.
This ought to be of interest to those who wonder what firing pin offset is acceptable in a small arm:
Report No. R-462 Primer Sensitivity vs. Firing Pin eccentricity
Frankford Arsenal Dec 1943
Object: To determine the effect of firing pin eccentricity on the sensitivity of small arms primers
Summary: Retaining firing pin plates were constructed for the drop test machine that have blows eccentric by .00”, .02” and 0.04”. Drop tests were made on cal.30, .20 carbine, cal 0.45, and cal .50 primed cases (in cases) with sharp anvils, and on cal .30 primers (H-4 in cases) with flat cups.
Very little, if any, changes in sensitivity occurs with blows of 0.02” eccentricity; large differences occur with blows of 0.04”.
“H bar” H̅ is the mean critical firing height. (approximately the 50% ignition point)
From
Percussion Primers, Design Requirements , McDonnell Douglas 1970:
“Primer manufacturers in their data sheets customarily provide the 100% “all fire” level of their products. This is essentially the same as the mean firing height plus five standard deviations.”
The 1943 report shows for the Cal 0.45 H̅ with a four ounce weight is 3.70” for 0.0” eccentricity, 3.70” for 0.02” eccentricity, and 5.11” for 0.04” eccentricity. They were using chlorate priming cake at the time, I assume non corrosive primers will require similar ignition energy, but, it won't be exact.
George Frost, in his book
Making Ammunition, shows data that the further the firing pin hits, the more energy it takes to ignite the primer. At some level of firing pin offset, the primer is not going to go bang. Maybe a torch will make it ignite, none of my weapons has that option.
If the OP's pistol cannot be made into a reliable firearm, the OP ought to get rid of the thing. Sell it for parts, whatever.
