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A clean burning powder

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by coldtrail, Nov 30, 2008.

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  1. coldtrail

    coldtrail Member

    May 22, 2007
    Hoodsport, Wa.
    I recently got back into the reloading game as I purchased a Socom 16 to play with. I want to develop a clean burning load for it. How does one tell which powders will burn clean in the bore? I don't want to foul the gas port or the action any more than necessary. I am open to any suggestions on loads and bullet weights. In years past I only reloaded for 45ACP and always used Bullseye with good results so my knowledge of rifle loads is close to zero.
  2. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

    Sep 17, 2007
    Eastern KS
    Your SOCOM gas operated 7.62x52 has powder burn curve requirements that may not necessarily be the same as Billy-Bob's bolt-action.

    The Hornady manuals, have a Chapter specific to the 7.62x51 NATO in the M1A.

    It might be well worthwhile to get a copy.

    Sometimes a clean-burning .308 load, and the right load for an M1A are two different things!

    In general though, I think some of the stick-type powders probably burn cleaner then some of the ball powders.
    But that should not be your #1 concern with a gas operated action.

  3. Slamfire

    Slamfire Member

    Dec 29, 2006
    True in my experience. I use mostly IMR 4895, AA2495 (AA knockoff of IMR 4895), and have H 4895. They all burn quite clean compared to AA2520, which is a ball powder appropriate for the M1/M1a.

    It makes absolutely no difference on paper, and as I clean my rifles each time I come back from the range, it makes no difference in function.

    Yupe. You should be more concerned about the burn rate. The fastest powder I have used was IMR 3031, and it worked great, and the slowest was IMR 4064, and it worked great. That is about the range of powders you should use, with IMR 4895/AA2495/H4895 being my recommendations. (AA2520 used to be very popular with M1a competitors, but I only use it because I got it cheap, I prefer stick powders)

    You will need a gas cylinder wrench and the drills to scrap out the carbon that accumulates in in the gas piston. I cannot find a picture of the one I use, these guys have a different type, should work fine. http://www.sadlak.com/si_tools.html

    I use bore cleaner to remove fouling from inside the gas cylinder, the drills followed by bore cleaner on the gas piston and lock. The outside of the gas piston should be clean and smooth, but it does not have to be shiney. Shiney in fact is bad if you are buffing off material.

    I highly recommend installing the gas cylinder lock with Anti Sieze, found at most Automotive stores. A gas cylinder lock carborized in place can be difficult to remove. Anti Sieze keeps it from sticking.
  4. rfwobbly

    rfwobbly Member

    Nov 14, 2008
    Cornelia, GA
    Commercially, anti-seize is sold as "Never-Seez".
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