So I've been gearing up to start reloading now for about two years, but have been to chicken to actually pull the lever. I've acquired many manuals, watched extensive youtube how to videos and I've been diligent in my research, and I take load data starting points very seriously. With that out of the way, I have a few questions. I've recently discovered a local shop that seems to have EVERYTHING in stock for reloading except for a few diameter bullets and primers (go figure) and I scored 2 pounds of Vihtavuori N310. I plan on weighing every charge, because my goal with this is absolute accuracy. Can someone give me a quick rundown on N310 pros and cons (besides its expensive, cost isnt an issue when the end goal is perfection) I know that guns are individual entities and it may not like n310 or specific bullets, I've learned this from extensive .22lr precision shooting. Also, this is a load for a custom 1911 that is basically irreplaceable cost wise. Would it be stupid to buy a cheap colt 1911 to use as a "piece of mind test mule"? I also have a 223 contender I'm 100% geared up to load for, but havnt yet. Should I cut my teeth on that first to get comfortable first, or grab a 1911 in 45 to put me at ease? Or both, haha. Sorry about the rambling.
The only real way to learn is to just do it. First hand. As to guns, absolute precision, what one gun likes another may dislike. No two barrels are the same. 45acp is much simpler to load than 223 in that there is a lot less case prep involved for the pistol.
The cheaper 1911 wouldn't be for load development, just for piece of mind, while honing my new skills.
If you can get them as close as possible to one another would be best. We have 2 45acp and 8 different 9mm and none of them shoot the same even with the same ammunition. But yes a second one would put less wear and tear on the first.
IMHO if a different 1911 helps you feel calmer for the first time rounds are loaded and fired then I say it makes sense. Getting a bit philosophical: While we need to "do things by the book" we ALSO have to think through what is right for us. What is important for me to do because of how my brain works may be different for what is right for you. If a pistol that isn't as irreplaceable will help with getting the first rounds down range then go for it. Eliminating a worry will enable more focus on what is going on. The point has already been made about not using the "cheaper" 1911 for load development for your prized gun. But also realize this applies to chamber size/fit as well. Make sure you do plunk testing on both guns. Just because you have a round that fits the starting gun's chamber doesn't necessarily mean it'll fit your prized gun's chamber. Enjoy! I, too, found it incredibly nerve wracking the first time I pulled the trigger. And, frankly, I still get pretty uptight when I pull the trigger for the first time on a caliber that is new to me. But OMG what a gratifying hobby.
http://www.natoreloading.com/9mm/ Look through this site. Pretty good reviews on major 9 powders including n310.
I still remember my first reloads and wondering what was going to happen when I pulled that trigger. It happened to be a 700BDL in .22-250, but being methodical and meticulous, and staying within the lines meant I’m still here with all digits. It’s still a rush with any load workup especially with new components. I load a lot of N320/N330/N340, but don’t have N310 on the shelf yet. I can tell you N310 is the fastest they sell, and one of the fastest on the burn rate chart, and I use their data as a starting point. It’s labeled a pistol powder, so unless their load data has N310 listed for .223, I’d stick to .45 first, or 9mm if that’s what your treasured 1911 is chambered in. You didn’t mention the bullet or goals, but N310 will work fine for a light/target load. A lead, coated lead or plated bullet would be an advantage over a jacketed bullet. The good thing about VV powders is they are single based and well behaved , that is they tolerate differences in reloading better than other powders, like Titegroup. They meter well despite being a stick, and they burn fairly clean with low smoke. If you stay within the lines, you’ll be fine. It’s your gun, but I wouldn’t be afraid of testing in it. Of course, if you need a nudge to get another gun.... by all means! Good luck.
All fast propellants need to be in smaller volumes. That said, be extra careful not to end up with a double charge. I use two loading blocks one on the left with primed brass primer up (empty) and after charging it put it in a block on the right. Then check all charges with a flashlight for fill. A bad one will show more easily this way. Only then place your bullet and seat. You need to figure out a process that works for you and stick to it every time, modify it as needed for safety but always follow your process. Good habits make good safe ammo. Just sayin'.
Welcome Aboard ! N310 will do very, very well in 45ACP. When buying bullets realize that 230gr RN is the standard Army bullet, but 200gr SWC is a much better target bullet and where you'll most likely end up. So you might seek out a few of both. Accuracy is enhanced by having fewer differences between rounds. Then of course you want the same powder in each and the same bullet, but also hunt up one brand of brass. Although I use "mixed brass" for general shooting, only one brand of brass gets used for testing. A chronograph will really help. Besides "dialing in" the velocity, you can make sure you're not over pressure. And low SD numbers will confirm that your reloading process is well refined. With Vit N310, it should be easy to get SD numbers for 8-10 shots in at 10 and under. Two things to remember: In reloading Process is everything, and all the steps we take within the process are to control Chamber Pressure. .
Two things about reloaded ammunition to remember. 1. The precision (of uniformity) of powder charges is possibly the least important factor in accuracy. Consistency in case preparation, bullet choice and distance of bullet from the lands are more important. Charge uniformity is important, but it is not the main thing. And on that subject, all the reloading care, precision and concentration will not make a poorly assembled rifle shoot well. 2. Handguns are generally far more forgiving of loads than rifles. I have several (bunches) of specific calibers of handguns that shoot the same load and bullet well. Most of my rifles will do 'okay' for hunting or combat but are only breath-taking with custom loads. With defensive handguns, load for reliability primarily; then extreme accuracy. With defensive handguns, the accuracy standard is all shots on a IPSC/USPSA cardboard target at fifty yards. Pretty loose. If one is real picky, head shots at fifty yards. More a problem for shooters than for ammunition. I suggest you concentrate on preparing cases for reloads. Cleaning them does not make them shoot better of itself, but detecting cracks and abnormalities is easier Clean, bright (not necessarily 'shiny') cases give one a feeling of confidence, which is never bad.
N-310 will do well for Minor PF, I would be surprised if it worked for Major PF where medium/medium slow powders rule the day. But it didn't look like the OP was looking for Major loads, so N-310 could serve him well for light target loads, although if the shop has N-320/N-330/N-340 they would be more versatile in 9MM for him. My "light" (A 124 at 1050ish from a 5" 1911)9MM load uses N-320.
If you it would help to have someone who a experienced reloader it really helps when getting started.
A little fear is healthy. When you lose fear is when you will most likely make a mistake.. We all probably experienced the same apprehension you are the first time we pulled the trigger on our own loads. My reassurance came from double checking my data. I write my plan in a journal, then record each round. I record general notes as to what prep was done to each case,, if they are once fired, twice fired, range brass, etc. I recorded the case weights, primer weight, powder, and bullets down to 1/10gr for each. I kept each round separate and labeled in a snack size sandwich bag. Before firing, I verified that the sum equalled the parts, matched the info wrote on the bag, and the COL was correct. If not, pull the bullet from the case and figure out why and then put it back together. You'll pull a couple bullets only to realize you missed something in your math or wrote something wrong, but you'll develop your own system for consistency and safety checks in the process and this will help with confidence.
If you have money and fear then the best thing you could buy is a high accuracy scale and check weights... they will provide a layer of safety and piece of mind nothing else will. If profection is the goal rounds with propellant measured accurately to .02 grains consistently is hard to beat.
Buy another 1911 if you want, never hurts to have more guns. However you need to look at it this way even with a cheaper 1911, your eyes and fingers are kind of irreplaceable as well.... Never used N310 but it is a fast pistol powder. Most fast pistol powders tend to be not forgiving of overcharges. If it was me I would stay away from anything close to MAX loads until you have some experience under your belt. If you are in the middle of the charge range and your charge is say .1gr heavy probably not much to worry about if you are at the max might be a different story. Make sure you check your ammo to make sure you are not getting bullet set back. Bullet set back in semi auto pistol rounds can take a safe load and make it unsafe real quick. Note - more crimp in semi auto pistol rounds is not the answer to set back issues. I remember shooting my first reload, I think I closed my eyes before pulling trigger Have fun, be safe, shoot straight!
223 or 45 to start on is a no-brainer... the one you want to load first. Your tooled up for 223, the contender is a fantastically strong firearm and is a single shot so your going to be more focused and less likely to rip away and end up with a squib once you start building confidence. Just follow the instructions on the dies, use printed load data, and double check everything. I learned as a halfwitted teenager more focused on Mariokart and females than the words coming out of dads mouth, so if I could learn in that condition then anybody can do it if they are paying attention. Learn the basics, then learn to do it better. Just like golfing... you aren’t doing anything but flailing around until you slow down and learn to be consistent in how you do your thing. And everybody’s “thing” is a little bit different in reloading. The process is there, but we all have our quirkiness. As long as you resize the cases, measure to make sure they aren’t too long, have consistent primer feel as you seat them, carefully measure your powder, and consistently seat a bullet then you have done your part. The only thing left to do is make sure there is enough neck tension to not let the bullet move around.
You sound like you're well overdue for starting your first batch. I did the opposite and started loading before I knew what I was doing and it all turned out fine. You just kind of learn as you go through each step. I used an old RCBS O press I bought for $40 and started loading 500 S&W. If you have read all the requirements for safe loading multiple times, and you know your load and its expected pressure, go for it! A chronograph will be handy
If you follow the steps. It will turn out fine. I also like two loading blocks. (This is one of the biggest helps for safety) Don't be too scared to dive in. But be scared enough to look for sharks.
A 1911 will take about 2x the pressure of a standard 45 acp load. 45s are great to get started on due to lower operating pressure. That gives you a bit of latitude. No need for 2nd one. Use 230 gr, it always works the best. I like to keep primed cases upside down till I charge & immediately seat. Great first time handload cartridge.
I would suggest to try and find someone that has experience, but if not, relax, start slow, walk before you take off running. Just my opinion. Just start it's not that hard.
I agree my N310 loads are high pressure despite only being minor loads. For 9mm major, slower powders like 3N37 & 3N38 are used. Slow powders allow the compensators to do their job better too. Unlike your .22 work, you are likely to find a JHP being most accurate. I would like you to view every round you make as something that could destroy an irreplaceable item, not just cost cost wise. Lack of attention and/or complacency are the enemy. How susceptible humans are to this is why things like powder check dies and such exist. Obviously, to err is human, so I won’t say it’s a bad idea but unless your using a ransom rest and are pulling the arm with a string, there are things nearby that are also irreplaceable, even if money were no object, despite using a firearm you care less about. As others have said, a double charge will be a deal breaker and a possibility with small charges of fast powder, even more so if you charge a big loading block full of cases vs put a bullet on top and seat it over each case right after it has been charged. The good news about N310 over powders that one couldn’t throw doubles, as they would overflow and spill out, is that you will be able to load many more rounds per pound of powder. If you haven’t already come across it, this might be helpful. https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/handgun-reloading/?cartridge=52
do a straight wall pistol cartridge first if you can. also, you can do and practice the entire process with no powder or primers - several times to work the kinks out and improve on shortcomings you find, and build confidence. IMHO, the primer and powder charge are pretty easy ... prepping the brass correctly IMHO is the most likely challenge, followed by crimp, if any is applied. neck tension and bullet seating can be nuanced, but if the set up and dies are all standard, should pose no real issues. I still run myself through a few dry runs, even on cartridges I've already loaded for, just to get back up to speed, and go through the process for that cartridge, and only after I do it with no confusion or issues do I get powder and primers out.
This is one thing I dearly love about VihtaVuori powders... the numbering system. I can tell exactly, which is the next slower or next faster powder from the one I'm using. No charts needed.
