A Non-AR Shooter's Views On The AR-15

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A note on the sights - for a target shooter like yourself, you can do what you already have, and adjust the sights for the range at which you'll be firing the rifle. Those sights, far from out of date, are perfectly adequate for engaging certain 5-to-6 foot tall targets at ranges up to 500 yards, not at all unheard of in places like Afghanistan.
 
What seems odd to me is that they'd be set to start at 300 meters instead of 200 or 100. I suppose with the flat trajectory it's less of an issue, though.
 
Pretty much. If you turn it down two clicks from 300 (iirc), that's the 200yd setting. Anything closer and it'll hit a little high or low (at very short ranges), which matters on paper, but not on a "life-size" target.
 
What seems odd to me is that they'd be set to start at 300 meters instead of 200 or 100. I suppose with the flat trajectory it's less of an issue, though.
2 clicks back from the 8/3 mark is 200 yds. We called it 8/3-2.
 
Cosmoline said:
The cost has been the big barrier to the AR's for me, as I suspect it is for a lot of other folks. This is the most I've spent on a firearm pretty much ever.

True, the cost is an issue. It's holding me back right now... kind of.
But I don't think you can ever go wrong with purchasing a quality gun and Colts are known to hold their value. And I can also think of situations where I'd really be comforted by having a reliable semi-auto centerfire rifle in easy reach. In a case like that, a thousand dollars spent on a good rifle would be well worth it.

As for the zero, the 5.56 does shoot pretty flat. I like the A1 style sights over the A2 because I think they're a little more durable and potentially more trouble free, which is why I plan to stick a Daniel Defense A1 style on mine when I get it.
 
The tool for the front sight is a great add on! Check your front sight and be sure if it is 4 prong or 5 prong and get the tool you will not regret it. Also the Vortex strikefire Red dot for $150 ( comes with mount) will co-witness with you irons perfectly! That set-up has killed some pigs in the brambles and brush for me.. It is a 3 moa dot with the strikefire and I would recommend the Red Dot version only simply because it is brighter.
 
Good job Cosmoline on getting a fine rifle for your first AR-15. Lots of people buy the fully tack-ed out ARs from the get go but you seem to have subscribed to the KISS principle. Good on you. And good job on getting a Colt for your first AR-15 especially if you say money was a barrier. Buy once, cry once, looks like you were a good listener and did your homework. That Colt will hold it's value and is top shelf quality to boot.

If you find the handguards too fat for you try swapping them with something else. You have the fat oval "M4" handguards on it, if you find a set of the CAR handguards they are noticeably thinner and smaller in diameter, but they will still have the same texture/shape. Another option is the MagPul MOE handguard, many people like them. Otherwise the AR-15 is much different than mil-surp rifles and you just have to get used to it.

One upgrade I can recommend for a KISS rifle is a Geissele SSA trigger. They cut my groups in half when I installed one in a Bushmaster C7-type rifle. Not cheap but it's a much better option IMO than modifying the mil-spec trigger group, that's a no-no for me.

Also the Vortex strikefire Red dot for $150 ( comes with mount) will co-witness with you irons perfectly!

I'm not sure how a Vortex Strike Fire red dot sight will co-witness with the irons on a 6520 unless the OP uses one of those goofy gooseneck mounts that places the optic in front of the carry handle. It sounds like the OP is the type of person that likes to shoot irons and the AR-15 certainly has a great set of iron sights. Upgrades can come later after familiarity.
 
Front sight tools are nice, I never saw one in inventory or issue for my 22 years Reserves. The standard solution was for the Range Officer to supply a bag of finish nails for sight adjustment. Works just fine.

My last qualification in the MP's was at Camp Clark, MO, and when I slung up I was getting 3-4" shifts in impact, on a short range. Completely unacceptable, no way to zero - I finally remembered that military weapons are NOT free floated like an International .22, so I unslung and cradled the forearm in the crook of my arm. Expert, again.

I've since attempted to estimate how many foot pounds of force a tightly slung weapon endures. With the sling at arm numbing pressures, hand forced against the guard, and gas block pulled almost exactly in the opposite direction, it could be 25-40 pounds easily.

Try it yourself - with a hasty position against a door post or tree, pole, or the side of a fixed target stand, press the gas block against it while shooting and see just what you get. ALL military weapons with sling points on front sights. blocks, or bands will shift POI, the issue isn't that they are somehow faulty, it's using a sling in combat like a range shooter when said sling ISN'T part of the combat kit out. The Infantry School at Ft. Benning circa 1983 removed the sling as part of the basic configuration in the field. Reasons included making less noise, not having the weapon on your shoulder when it should be at the ready, not snagging every piece of brush or gear on you tangling and impeding a quick sight picture, etc. We also NEVER used the "carry handle," that was more than an instructor's tripwire for pushups, it was a point of professional pride. You can't shoot a M16 carrying it like luggage, one too many newsclips from Vietnam exposed that newb behavior.

Having also trained MP - sure, there's a place for sling use in street patrol or CQB. Completely different game, you detain and search individuals, it's a police environment, part of the Low Intensity Conflict scenario. It's not field combat where you are assured of being in the sight picture of someone else, and where you need to be completely uninmpeded in your response.

Like any other accessory, if something has an optimum situation for use, it also has an opposite worse case where it has no place at all. Unfortunately the shooting public follows fads and doesn't keep the big picture in mind. Case in point, for the first time in history, the F150 was sold with more 6 cylinder engines than V8's - and since most users are actually commuters, you have to ask why it took them so long to get it.

I'll sharpen the point, since you train like you fight - don't shoot with a sling, don't sling up when hunting, and don't spend money on them beyond getting some kind of strap to carry it out of the woods at the end of a long day hunting. I encourage all those who would use a sling to practice with it at the range, at home, and in the field. Find out for yourself what works for you, rather than simply accept the preferences of someone else insisting on their view of an appropriate tactical response.

Hook a sling one time on a doorknob, lamp, or piece of furniture exiting a bedroom to investigate that noise in the night, maybe it's not the appropriate choice. If you don't practice and train with it, you really don't know whether it works for you.
 
definitely agree you should practice with the sing to see what works.

slings stay on my guns (ARs and bolts) pretty much all year round. I'll detach one end for cleaning maybe once or twice/year. otherwise, it's on in the house, in the car, when bagged, in the eberlestock, and certainly every time i pull the trigger, be it a class, match or goofing off at the range.
 
Yep I have used all sorts of things for adjusting the front sight. Because I was sighting in my ARs once upon a time (and replacing some front sights) also helping with several friends ARs I finally broke down and got the front sight tool for less than $6 when I ordered some other stuff; made my life easier. But yes one rifle and getting it set is usually a one time type operation and no need for a dedicated tool.
 
Tirod--I'm planning on using his for some more advance tactical carbine training, and from what I've seen everyone seems to be using slings--often the fancy three point ones--for this purpose. Is it viable to do this kind of training where you swap from carbine to handgun and back *without* a sling? What do you do with your AR?

I'm used to the standard M1907 sling so I put one on this. After some adjustment it seems to be working fine, and if I know the POI shift in my stances I can adjust for it.
 
Tirod--I'm planning on using his for some more advance tactical carbine training, and from what I've seen everyone seems to be using slings--often the fancy three point ones--for this purpose. Is it viable to do this kind of training where you swap from carbine to handgun and back *without* a sling? What do you do with your AR?

Drop it on the ground, presumably. I have an m1907 sling on my garand and my LTR, but carrying straps on everything else i own. the three point sling or a single point sling is a nice complement to a carbine, since it keeps it handy and accessable and also out of the way.

I'm used to the standard M1907 sling so I put one on this. After some adjustment it seems to be working fine, and if I know the POI shift in my stances I can adjust for it.
 
Drop it on the ground, presumably.

i'm assuming that was a joke

but seriously, in matches and classes, the sling is a safety device. most instructors i've taken would not let you on the line without a sling that keeps the gun vertical (muzzle up or down) when your hands are not touching it. in matches, I require the guns to be transported slung or bagged. we do not allow people to carry guns in their hands because they invariably sweep everyone around them, drop them, or have an irresistible urge to diddle with them. most matches i've been to, incl zak's steel safari have similar rules.
 
I've since attempted to estimate how many foot pounds of force a tightly slung weapon endures. With the sling at arm numbing pressures, hand forced against the guard, and gas block pulled almost exactly in the opposite direction, it could be 25-40 pounds easily.

Try it yourself - with a hasty position against a door post or tree, pole, or the side of a fixed target stand, press the gas block against it while shooting and see just what you get.

Ok, I just did an experiment. I clamped a torque wrench onto the back rail of my work bench and placing a rifle against it and getting into a shooting position I got 38lbs.
 
Cosmoline... Im glad you like the Colt. The 6520 really is a great lightweight accurate carbine.

I run a VTAC 2 point sling on my Colt and like it a lot. It has a padded section for you shoulder and an easy to use adjuster for the sling. Here is their instructional video.
http://www.vikingtactics.com/pop-instr_video.html

Larry Vickers has a very similar sling that is also supposedly really good.
 
As an aside--is there any real reason to smack the mags against my head? I keep doing it but the rifle isn't shooting any better or worse.

The reason is to get the rounds to seat themselves a little more uniformly in the mag. If you're paying attention while you load there's no reason to do it. We do it on the range because the mags are normally loaded in a hurry and aren't a precision job. You can't really smack yourself hard enough on a bare head to make a difference anyway. We rap them against our helmets pretty hard. The people you see doing it on the range saw a soldier do it and figured "monkey see, monkey do". Not quite. Smack it on a hard surface and spare your head if you see a few rounds aren't quite right.

The best front sight adjustment tool I've ever used is a 2-3 inch nail. Unlike a "real" sight adjustment tool you can see each click easier. There's a technique to it but once you figure it out it's fast and doesn't stress your hands.

About slings- I'm currently an MP in Kandahar, Afghanistan. All of us use some way to secure our weapon to us for M4s. You name a sling type and there's probably at least one of us using it. I have a 4 inch long piece of 550 cord and a carabiner securing my rifle to my body armor at my right shoulder. Not really a sling but I hate long slings. They get in my way. Putting my rifle on something is as simple as lifting my hand. But that's an urban fighting position and set-up for a rifleman. No single type of sling is better than another.

I have a foregrip with a pop out bi-pod. Handy as hell for day to day use. Keeps my rifle and optics out of the dust.
 
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Cosmoline, I have killed quite a few hogs with a Mini 14. The .223/5.56 will kill them DRT with proper bullet placement. the last one I shot was over 300 lbs on the hoof and went less then 10 feet before he piled up.
 
i'd not recommend smacking the mags against any hard surface. that's what causes the welds on the back of aluminum mags to let go which results in feeding malfunctions

the top two rounds need to be pushed back so the tips aren't sticking out the front (which would cause it to be difficult to push the mag into the magwell). you can easily push them with your finger. it doesn't matter where the rest of the rounds are in the mag

if you do feel the need to smack the mags against something, i would procure a good supply of mags and use a lip gauge regularly
 
Thanks for that input! I'm going to try to run it with a simple two-point sling for now.

The one issue I'm having in practice handling is the magazine release. I'm used to AK style and this thing just seems to be in the wrong place. When held straight my finger is resting on it, and if I brush it very much the mag pops loose. Plus a few times setting it down on a hard surface seems to have clicked the mag part way out. How hard is it to get rid of this release button and replace it with something on the underside?
 
cosmo, the tension on it is adjustable. push it ALL the way in and then spin the lever sticking out on the other side of the gun around to tighten or loosen
 
Tirod--I'm planning on using his for some more advance tactical carbine training, and from what I've seen everyone seems to be using slings--often the fancy three point ones--for this purpose. Is it viable to do this kind of training where you swap from carbine to handgun and back *without* a sling? What do you do with your AR?
The 3-point slings are unnecessarily complex for the job they do. A quick-adjust 2-point (Vickers, VTAC) is IMO a better choice.

If you want to try one cheaply, the Blue Force Victory series sling can be had for $30 to $40. 2-points aren't great for right-hand to left-hand transitions (it's easier to just flip the sling over your head before swapping shoulders) but they do a lot of things better than single-point slings. Here's mine:

med_gallery_260_23_3167.jpg


It adjusts quickly with the support hand, and when transitioning to a pistol the rifle hangs muzzle down against your chest and doesn't swing freely. It's basically a no-frills version of their Vickers sling.
 
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