A question for 1911 shooters

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doubleh

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How many of you use a credit or playing card to put between the frame and slide stop of your 1911s when reassembling the gun?

Edited to ask: Why do you use it?
 
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I have, but not often.

You use it to prevent putting an "idiot mark" on your frame (sometimes slide if you're going all out) when repositioning the slide stop.



Edit to add: you could just put the idiot mark on your gun the first time you field strip it, and then you don't have to worry about it anymore.;)
 
A common modification to prevent the "idiot scratch" and make reassembly faster is to file a groove in the slide stop into which the forward plunger fits. A simple, straight inward push overcomes the resistance of the plunger and its spring and fully seats the slide stop.

As I was working on this one I used some Dykem to check my progress. When I finished the horizontal line in the Dykem ran straight from the groove all the way across to where it ended at the vertical ine.

f6xbOot.jpg
 
I never knew or thought about it until I read this thread. My 1911’s bought new or that I refinished don’t bear the shameful crescent.
I might try it if I run into one that is especially tough to click into place.
 
I have an idiot scratch on my safe queen 1911. When I didn't know any better. On my built one, I had more experience and no scratch.
 
Nah...

Me and my guns, we earn our scars!:evil:

Too, hasn't been a playing car in my possession since, well, ever.

Todd.
 
To each their own.

I personally do not own any high end expensive 1911's or any safe queens that I am worried about.

I carried the old "Battle Rattle" 1911A1's while in the Army. We weren't worried about "idiot marks" And I still don't worry about it to this day with the 1911's I do own. They are tools to be used and will get scratched up.
 
Never heard of such a thing until I read about here. Does seem kind of strange that in all these years of owning 1911s, and having many friends who are 1911 devotees, that this is the first time I have come across this particular technique.
 
This reminded me of this so much :D


But! I know airgunners are also this much of a stickler with keeping their gear pristine, therefore almost all of the high end used ones in existence are mint clean.
 
An otherwise wonderfully fit Turk 1911 requires a nudge with a small screwdriver to depress the plunger; my others slip into place without drama.
All our GI 1911s at the armory, long ago, had the moron mark. My own RR only has a slight one.
Never had really thot' about using a card, but it would keep you from saying "balderdash" or something if you screw up... ;)
Moon
 
I started this over a guy complaining on another forum about putting the idiot mark on his new 1911 and how to keep from doing that. The responses were to use a credit card, playing card, thin piece of plastic, masking tape, etc. to prevent it. I had never heard of doing any of that. I posted it was pretty simple to avoid, just line everything up and push the slide stop straight down. More responses on always using something between the stop and frame.Finally a guy that's a gunsmith chimed in with basically the same method as mine, just worded a little different. I was just curious as to what the members here thought. I bought my first 1911 around 45 years ago and was shown by an old hand with them how to dis and reassemble it. I still have it. It has no mark, and never will. I own four more at the moment and there are no idiot marks on them either. None of the ones I no longer own left with that mark either.
 
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The way I was taught is to line up the link on the barrel and insert the slide stop, with the lever end hanging in the trigger guard. Once you have the link captured, simply lift the slide stop up slightly, so it doesnt drag on the frame, and align it with the slide stop plunger on the frame. Then push the slide stop home.

Occasionally, youll get a gun that the stop gets hung up on the plunger, and you might need a small tool/screwdriver, ect, to depress the plunger slightly, and it will go right in after that.

No chance of dragging the arc, if you dont push the slide stop against the frame trying to get it in the gun.
 
I've tried it on on my Springfield Milspec with an oversprung plunger, but find it easier to use a small punch (or the equivalent) to get the plunger started as I carefully seat the stop.
 
with an oversprung plunger, but find it easier to use a small punch (or the equivalent) to get the plunger started as I carefully seat the stop.
My Sistema was tight like that, far having a brand new plunger spring. I just used a flat 10 thou feeler gauge as it was just flexible enough, and the rounded nose was unlikely to ding the finish.
 
Having put a small "idiot scratch" on my stainless Springfield the first time I disassembled and reassembled it (as per manual instructions and without first watching a YouTube "how-to" video - a stupid move I don't repeat) I now do use a precautionary intervention to insert the slide stop, usually a small screwdriver to depress the plunger when the slide is lined up. My other two 1911's aren't so tight as my Springfield and I can insert the stop without any tool-wise assistance.

If reassembling a new gun for the first time, I think the smartest move is to be cautious and don't be a hero.

My Springfield was only the third gun I ever bought, so forgive me for being stupid at the time.
 
This is the first time I've heard of the thin plastiic sheet trick to avoid the "idiot mark".

I've been using the "depress the plunger method" all this time but I do have a couple frames that have gotten scratched.

They are tools to be used and will get scratched up.

I agree with 12Bravo20. My 1911's that get used alot have the blueing worn off the barrel and scratches here and there from handling. The ones that do not have many wear and tear marks do not get taken out much.
 
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