? ABOUT M1A

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KUJO2388

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I HAVE NEVER FIRED A M1A BUT I AM GOING TO BUYING ONE IN THE NEXT MONTH OR TWO. I AM NOT SURE WHICH ONE I SHOULD GET. ANY ADVICE ABOUT SPRINGFIELDS M1A'S WOULD BE APPRECIATED. I WANT A RIFLE THAT WILL BE GOOD FOR CLOSE COMBAT AND A SEMI LONG RANGE GUN ALSO. WHICH ONE WOULD YOU SUGGEST.

THANKS
 
If you're sticking with Springfield, I'd go with a synthetic-stocked "bush" or "scout" version, possibly with a shorter aftermarket flash suppressor (I think Smith is still making vortex models for the M14, ain't he?)

The full length is nice if you're used to it, but isn't exactly cramped-quarters friendly. The sights on the SOCOM models just ROCK... but I think they chopped those models too much, and the SOCOM II with the giant rail system is just way overkill. If you really need more do-dads than just a scope/red dot/whatever I think you're better off mounting a rail directly to the stock where you want it than using the boat anchor model.

But hey, you know about opinions.. :)
 
Good advice all around....

I've been pondering the same thing for awhile.....and I found that the little SOCOM is too small[I found it difficult for anything other than inside 75 or so yards]. I would either look at the full size basic M1a, or the 18" barreled "Squad" rifle. I've shoot a friends Squad, and really liked it, plus it does give you the option of mounting optics on the forward mount.

The SOCOM II is a little marketing overkill with all the rails and such.....

I know you asked about M1A's, but FYI, I went with a 18" barreled FNFAL.
 
If you like the more traditional look of a military gun, go for the 9222. It is the "fully loaded" model with a carbon steel barrel, with a nicer trigger group. I could'nt be happier with mine. I had a "mil spec" M1A brand new in my hands, and then the dealer pulled out the "slightly used" fully loaded model I bought after comparing the trigger. One of the nicest rifles I ever bought out of the box.
Armalite is selling magazines right now for $25 EACH currently, so stock up.
 
I have a black synthetic Scout/Squad and couldn't be happier. There are things about it that I am in the process of changing though. It comes with this really long rubber butt plate that increases the LOP so much that seeing through the rear sight difficult. I've since put a USGI steel butt plate and the rifle is much more comfortable now. I still either want to drill out the rear aperature out to 0.125 inch to make sight aquisition easier or buy a set of XS sights for it. I'm also considering adding an exended bolt stop, a GLFS-H and a Vortex Direct connect FS from Smith Enterprise which will also help shorten the over all length of the rifle with out shortening the barrelhttp://www.smithenterprise.com/products03.html.
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Flip.
 
The full-length rifle is just fine, and it is NOT a clumsy or difficult-to-use length. For my tastes, I avoid the shorter versions.

My rifle is also a 9222 carbon-steel/walnut loaded model, and it is about perfect right out of the box. Absolutely reliable, and more accurate than I am, it has become a favorite in just one year and believe me, it has a LOT of competition for that honor around our house.

The one thing I usually change in all my M1/M1A rifles is the size of the rear-sight aperture. After fifty-odd years of using iron sights, I know very well what works for me, and the issue diameter is too small for efficient FIELD (not target) use. I open the aperture to at least twice the issue size, and gain in field of view, speed of picking-up targets, and better light transmission in less than ideal conditions. I've actually USED the rifles on bear-defence chores and as home defence weaponry, and the larger apertures add greatly to the utility of the rifles.

Recently, I adapted an M1 Garand sight to accept a Merit "hunting"-size adjustable-iris aperture, and this may be the best way to go. On some rifles, the Merit might interfere with getting a correct short-range zero, as it may contact the receiver before the sight reaches dead bottom. In such a case, a taller front sight will correct the difficulty. These comments also apply to the M1A, because the sights are identical.

Apart from that, the M1A rifle is great.
 
Thanks for all of the advice everyone. I can see that most of you would prefer the regluar length m1a not the shorter version which makes since. That is why I figured I would ask. And the main reson that I am going with the M1a is because it is california legal. I wanted to get a fal but the only california legal ones have a permanent 10 round magazine, Like my ar-15. Well they are permanet untill you unscrew the mag realease but I wont get into that. I just wanted a ca legal semi auto, 308 caliber rifle.
 
Ca legal M1A

I have the same problem: limited selection of California legal Semi-auto battle rifles that Barbara Boxer (and her concealed weapons permit) deem appropriate for us common citizens to own. It was really a "no brainer" for me though as I fell in love with the M-14 battle rifle while enlisted in the US Navy (a common hang-out for common citizens). I just recently purchased a SA synthetic stock, carbon steel M1A "loaded". It shoots my handloads, winchester brass, Sierra 168 matchking, 44.5 grains IMR 4064 and CCI 200 primers, just the way it is supposed to! The only difference is the design of the flash suppressor.
 
Please shut off your caps lock.
Any M1A, other than the regular full length rifle, is a marketing thing. The .308 was designed for a 22" barrel. Shorten the barrel and you lose velocity.
"...wanted to get a fal but the only california legal ones have a permanent 10 round magazine..." If you want one, buy it. 10 rounds out of an FAL isn't anything to complain about. An real FAL is a battle rifle. An M1A is a commercial copy of an M-14. Ain't the same thing.
The only reason the U.S. military got the M-14 was for political reasons. When the tests were done in the mid 50's, the FAL beat the M-14 every time. 50 countries, used a variant of the FAL.
The M1A is a fine rifle, but a battle rifle it ain't.
 
Just to clarify,

A battle rifle is a weapon that comes out of a military arms room. Everything else is a commercial copy.

"I just wanted a ca legal semi auto, 308 caliber rifle."

That pretty much rules out all battle rifles.

Flip.
 
i would say go for the standard model, or loaded at most. national match, and super match models don't make for cheap shooting. lots of mags and ammo like was said above. if you want to put a scope on it, i would suggest an arms #18 mount, arms scope rings with throw levers, and a nice scope, there are many nice scopes out there that aren't that steep in the price department.
i personally do not like the socom models, i don't need 40yds of rail system on my gun for me to like it:what: that's crazy i know. plus a 16" barrel isn't the best thing, your using .308, you might as well get an m-4 w/ 16" barrel, the scouts are nice, but still an 18" still takes away from the capabilities of the .308.not as much as the 16" but still yet.

like i said get a loaded model, not bottom of the totem poll but good enough for any shooting you might want to do. good scope mounts, rings and scope, that's what i am gonna do as soon as the money makes it's way into my bank account!:)
 
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