Action bedding
- Thread starter rajb123
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MtnCreek
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What type of rifle? Does it have factory stock?
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huntershooter
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I'd shoot it before I modified anything. My 452 shot 3/8" @ 50 yds. with a trigger "tweak" only.
For bedding I use Brownells "Acruglass".
For bedding I use Brownells "Acruglass".
pdawg.shooter
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I prefer Devcon "Plastic Steel". Harder, stronger and more chemical resistant than Accraglass.
Rancho Relaxo
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I have bedded my 425 (and one of my 527s). Both are pretty straightforward. Rimfirecentral has lots of info on bedding a 452, definitely worth your time to check it out. On both cases I haven't seen a huge different in accuracy, but they were both extraordinarily accurate to begin with.
For bedding you want Accraglas GEL. It has the consistency of warm peanut butter so it's easier to work with. Regular Accraglas is too thin for bedding.
Use Johnson's Paste Wax or Kiwi Neutral shoe polish for a release agent.
How much of an improvement bedding makes depends on how bad the original bedding is. I have had it make a day and night difference. OTOH, I've had a few guns where the factory bedding was so good I didn't bother. Those are rare.
Use Johnson's Paste Wax or Kiwi Neutral shoe polish for a release agent.
How much of an improvement bedding makes depends on how bad the original bedding is. I have had it make a day and night difference. OTOH, I've had a few guns where the factory bedding was so good I didn't bother. Those are rare.
I did a acc.glass gel job on my boyd stock .17 HMR and it looks like the wood expanded away from the glass. Theres a slight gap. Middle of the bedding both sides. Thing is it shoots as good or better than ever? I just wonder if the glass doesnt expand ect. but the wood does how this doesnt happen all the time.
Sunray
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"...Regular Acraglas is too thin for bedding..." Don't be daft.
"...shoot it before..." Absolutely. Find the ammo it shoots best first too.
"...shoot it before..." Absolutely. Find the ammo it shoots best first too.
243winxb
Member
For wood stocks & crack repairs - Brownells "Acruglass" Make dams with puddy/clay/tape to keep it from flowing where you dont want it.
BrocLuno
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In all cases getting a good glass to wood bond is critical. If the glass and wood are separating, that means you have a contamination layer in between. Wherever you plan to make a glass to wood bond, that area has to be clean and oil/wax free. That's really hard to do in some cases. Almost better to take the Dremmel and grind away material so you know you are into fresh stock material before making the bed. Also, leaving a rough surface is a good idea to aid in adhesion.
I also like Devcon products, but their full line is sometimes hard to come by. I do suggest using penetrating epoxy as a first coat to soak into the wood and provide a better bonding surface for the bedding compound. It's a process I use on lots of old hardwood repairs like cabinets and such.
I also like Devcon products, but their full line is sometimes hard to come by. I do suggest using penetrating epoxy as a first coat to soak into the wood and provide a better bonding surface for the bedding compound. It's a process I use on lots of old hardwood repairs like cabinets and such.
Lately, I've used Devcon with some success. It sets up very hard, but I haven't used it enough to really know how it will perform in the long run.
On laminated birch stocks, I recommend pillar-bedding to prevent the stock from spreading transversely. That may be what happened to the one mentioned above. Also, I prefer other products to Acraglas Gel. Putty-like mixtures don't tend to penetrate wood and make it stronger or adhere to wood as well as Acraglas. I've used Acraglas and chopped-up fiberglass batt insulation to make it less runny, but it still has sufficient liquidity for penetrating into wood pores.
Anyway, pillars effectively stop the tendency for the soft birch to spread out or compress. I did a regular bedding job on an accurate Rem 700 and got great groups for the first time out, then it started spreading groups; after pillar-bedding, it was cured. (All my bolt-actions are free-floated, so that wasn't a factor.) I also use pillar-bedding on synthetic stocks.
My pillars are cut from 1/2" steel tubing from Home Depot and it works quite well afer being roughed up. Aluminum pillars are over-priced (IMHO) and are too large in diameter for many hole locations.
Let me be more specific. I should have said "Regular Acraglas is too thin for easy bedding". It's certainly possible to bed a rifle with regular Acraglas. It's just a lot easier with Acuraglas GEL.
Let's see what Brownells has to say on the subject:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1038/Product/ACRAGLAS_GEL_reg_
"Over the years we had hundreds of customer requests for an epoxy accurizing compound with a butter-smooth consistency which would neither run, drip or leach out from between wood and metal after being placed in the gun stock. After many years of research and testing, we perfected a modified version of our popular Acraglas® that gives the same super accurizing bedding job and also meets those specialized smooth application features you have asked for. " [emphasis added]
"USING GLASS FLOC
Because of the characteristics of the lattice, molecular structure of Acraglas Gel, the advantages of glass floc are already incorporated in the finished epoxy so the addition of floc is not recommended or needed."
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Prion
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JB Weld, No. 20 Car Wax as a release agent, and blue painters tape to mask off areas.
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