Adhesive for scope rings
- Thread starter 30Aught
- Start date
- Status
wally
Member
Am I missing something? I don't think you want to glue the scope to the rings in any situation. I'd start with Loc-Tite on the mount screws. Blue is the starting point if you hope to remove it without applying heat first. De-grease all the screws and inside threads, apply Blue Loc-Tite and torque to spec.
I've had issues with the .22lr 3/8" "tip-off" scope rings moving in the rifles "dovetail", but never a problem with the scope moving in the rings. Loc-tite 620 "slip-fit retaining compound" has kept them in place, yet has been removable when I swapped scopes.
I've had issues with the .22lr 3/8" "tip-off" scope rings moving in the rifles "dovetail", but never a problem with the scope moving in the rings. Loc-tite 620 "slip-fit retaining compound" has kept them in place, yet has been removable when I swapped scopes.
Art Eatman
Moderator In Memoriam
First I've heard of gluing.
My scope on my '06 never moved in well over 3,000 rounds of max-load shooting. Never used LocTite, either.
My scope on my '06 never moved in well over 3,000 rounds of max-load shooting. Never used LocTite, either.
As others have said if your scope is slipping in the rings it's most likely a mounting issue.
My .375 rugers scope doesn't move when the ring screws are correctly torqued, but I had my heavy 7mm slide it's scope forward till it bottomed out on the erector assembly. On the 7 the screws we're tight enough to keep me from rotating the scope by hand but only about 1/2 the torque specified.
My .375 rugers scope doesn't move when the ring screws are correctly torqued, but I had my heavy 7mm slide it's scope forward till it bottomed out on the erector assembly. On the 7 the screws we're tight enough to keep me from rotating the scope by hand but only about 1/2 the torque specified.
troy fairweather
Member
you can ruff up the rings with some course sand paper. what rings are you using
shoobe01
Member
Tape on the inside of rings is a hack for low-quality stuff that cannot be kept to specs. Do not do anything else like sand the rings either.
Quality mounts/rings, installed properly (aligned, correct torque values, etc) should not move under recoil. Even the horrendous big game cartridges, scopes can be mounted with rings: no glue, no recoil lugs. Badger makes some .50 BMG specific rings https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1734328043/badger-ordnance-picatinny-style-30mm-max-50-rings-matte No glue, no tape, no recoil lugs. Just a bit more surface area to grab the scope tube.
Other tricky bits:
What rings?
What scope?
Quality mounts/rings, installed properly (aligned, correct torque values, etc) should not move under recoil. Even the horrendous big game cartridges, scopes can be mounted with rings: no glue, no recoil lugs. Badger makes some .50 BMG specific rings https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1734328043/badger-ordnance-picatinny-style-30mm-max-50-rings-matte No glue, no tape, no recoil lugs. Just a bit more surface area to grab the scope tube.
Other tricky bits:
- Clean and degrease the scope body and rings, at least where the interface.
- Do not use threadlocker (loctite) on the ring screws; they are small so it is easy to overapply and then you'll never get them off, and you cannot use heat without damaging the scope; the threadlocker can seep to the scope tube and do weird things.
What rings?
What scope?
foxmeadow
Member
An old smith locally rcommended powdered rosin dusted under the rings and torque to 20 Inch pounds with blue loctite. None of my scopes have ever moved.
shooter1niner
Member
Powdered rosin, like from a bowlers rosin bag sprinkled lightly in the rings will stop a scope from moving.
ColtPythonElite
Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2011
- Messages
- 10,466
I am a hack.... I have either lined the rings with electrical tape or put a wrap around the scope tube to prevent shifting scopes on hard recoiling guns or ring marks.
FL-NC
Member
Blue locktite on screw threads is the only "adhesive" I would use mounting optics.
So have I on my 30-06 rifles. But we are talking about a magnum that hasn't held.It is only on my magnums with muzzle brakes.Not on any of the other rifles I own. I guess you didn't care I asked for the opinions of those with first hand experience.LOLFirst I've heard of gluing.
My scope on my '06 never moved in well over 3,000 rounds of max-load shooting. Never used LocTite, either.
I've never had a scope move on 3 of my 30-06 rifles nor other high powered rifles I've mounted scopes on. But on both my 325 WSM rifles I have. If you read my original post you would see I asked only for the opinion of those with first hand experience or know someone that has had this problem. Some of you guys on these forums make me laugh.
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks, I was thinking of trying rosin or tape, loc tite on screws and getting Warne rings instead of the Leupold I have.
I planned on using the removable loc tite first with tape or rosin and changing Leupold rings to Warne rings.thanks
But apparently it is-lol. Muzzle brakes on 325 WSM are the only scopes that have moved on any of the many scope mounts I have done. Guess you didn't care I asked only for the opinion of those folks with first hand experience-lol
I am going to switch from Leupold to Warne rings.
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes you are missing something. I specifically asked for an opinion of those people who have had first hand experience with the problem or know someone that has. And I have torqued to spec and there are quite a few others who have had this issue.
Some on these forums are funny.lol
WelshShooter
Member
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2014
- Messages
- 491
You can apply a hot soldering iron to the screw head to allow localised heat to melt the loctite. Put a heat sink on the scope tube to dissipate the heat away. Shouldn't damage the scope this way.
shoobe01
Member
I have never seen that. Will recall in future that some super reputable types DO say to apply stuff.
19th century stuff
Haven't used rosin since printmaking class. And even then, not after the first two weeks of that phase, after that used spray paint to get the same effect (not transferrable to this application).Every time I try to be more concise lately, my summary gets called for not being precise enough. I meant, people will often over-react and use too much heat, too badly applied, and damage the component. But yes, you are totally right there are ways to apply spot heat for over-loctited fasteners.[/QUOTE]
shoobe01
Member
Not sure what you want or why so unhappy about answers. Lots of informed opinions based on experience with high recoiling firearms seem to be here. Any speculation is because you haven't said:
- What gun
- What scope
- What tube diameter
- What rings, until a followup with brand, but still no idea which model, which size, how many mounting screws
- Until another followup, that you followed torque settings, etc. Nope, we cannot assume that, and many of these come with no info in the box except "have a gunsmith install" so it takes time to find that.
- What is "loosening up." Rings or scope in rings? Still not sure.
Varminterror
Member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2016
- Messages
- 14,876
That cute little 325 WSM doesn't have recoil anywhere near the level of my 458Lott or 416Rigby, and I don't have to cut any corners by gluing my scope into the rings. Blue loctite on the screws, sure, that's not bad advice for ANY rifle.
If you're using inexpensive rings with low contact, you're going to slip. If you're using low quality, inexpensive rings with low contact, you'll need to lap to improve contact. I have used rosin, I have used electrical tape, I have used packing tape... None of it is necessary if you use quality rings, torqued to spec, with the screws retained at torque with blue loctite.
You're not the first person to have a scope from slipping with crap Leupold rings. You won't be the last. The solution isn't to put a duct tape and baling wire fix on the crap rings, but rather to replace the rings with better quality, higher contact rings (especially good rings which don't need lapping to have more than 30% contact with the scope tube.
If you're using inexpensive rings with low contact, you're going to slip. If you're using low quality, inexpensive rings with low contact, you'll need to lap to improve contact. I have used rosin, I have used electrical tape, I have used packing tape... None of it is necessary if you use quality rings, torqued to spec, with the screws retained at torque with blue loctite.
You're not the first person to have a scope from slipping with crap Leupold rings. You won't be the last. The solution isn't to put a duct tape and baling wire fix on the crap rings, but rather to replace the rings with better quality, higher contact rings (especially good rings which don't need lapping to have more than 30% contact with the scope tube.
- Status
